Author Topic: Getting started....  (Read 551 times)

Offline Scrap

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Getting started....
« on: April 09, 2006, 07:43:09 PM »
Trying to try a stab at a 109G6 and I am having trouble figuring out how you guys start a template from the original.  After saving the default skin and making a new copy to edit, I can't seem to add layers to the original.  Can anyone explain how to get the ball rolling from the point you get the BMP into Photoshop? :mad:

Offline Nr_RaVeN

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Getting started....
« Reply #1 on: April 10, 2006, 09:07:15 AM »
create a new layer and paint on that. you need to be sure that the copy of the default is in rgb mode.
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Offline MachNix

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Getting started....
« Reply #2 on: April 10, 2006, 11:31:39 AM »
Scrap;
Photoshop does not support layers for bitmaps and you have to convert it to a different format.  In Photoshop, go Image/Mode and select RGB Color.  You will now be able to add layers.  Save your working file as a *.psd.  And always go Image/Duplicate and then Image/Mode/Index the copy to create the new bmp file.  It is a common error to index and then save your working file and lose all your layers.  GL

Offline Scrap

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Getting started....
« Reply #3 on: April 10, 2006, 08:06:10 PM »
Cool thanks guys!  Any tips on building a rivet/panel line layer?  I am having a heck of a time w/ it trying to eyeball the default skin and use pics/profiles I have collected.

Offline MachNix

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« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2006, 01:41:14 PM »
I use a layer for each "class" of items – one for rivets, one for seams, one for panels, and one for fasteners.  I start with the seam and panel lines first and use a 3-view line drawing as a starting point to trace the seam and panel lines onto the appropriate layers.  I hide the default skin under a "skin" layer that is a solid light gray – the seam and panel layers are above this layer.  Duplicate the file, index it to 256 colors, save it under the appropriate skin folder in Aces High, open the Skin Viewer, and see what it looks like.  (The light gray skin color gives a bare metal look like a factory-fresh aircraft ready for some paint.)  Compare what you see in the skin view with the 3-view drawing and any photos you might have.  Move the seam and panel lines as needed in photoshop, make and save another duplicate, hit the "refresh" button in the Skin Viewer and see how you did.  Once you have the seams and panels done, you are ready to add the rivets and fasteners.

How the seam and panel lines look is a mater of taste and comes down to the individual style of the skinner and how much "work" they want to put into their skins.

Offline Scrap

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Getting started....
« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2006, 11:01:24 PM »
Any pointers on why after I save a bitmap it turns out invisible in the skin viewer? (using Photoshop CS)

Offline MotleyCH

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Getting started....
« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2006, 11:29:12 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Scrap
Any pointers on why after I save a bitmap it turns out invisible in the skin viewer? (using Photoshop CS)


Though you can keep the pixle size at 1024x1024..you have to reduce it down to 256 colors.

Just make sure you dont save your working copy to 256 colors.

Offline Mustaine

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Getting started....
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2006, 03:18:33 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Scrap
Any pointers on why after I save a bitmap it turns out invisible in the skin viewer? (using Photoshop CS)
you have to save the file as a *.BMP then you have to reduse the *.BMP's colors to 256 (8 bit) color.

a tip about layers, the more the merrier. i had over 38 final layers on my 190 skin i did.

also, rivets... hotly contested in many cases. opacity, size, quantity, so on. i suggest doing a blank skin (no background color) and working out the rivets, if anything do it on a flay gray (128, 128, 128) background.

when you go to set the opacity of the layers, start at 0 and bring them up not the other way around. if you start at full opacity, you bring them down but not always enough. what i found is i set my panel lines and rivets that way at first.... the next week i looked at the skin and said "wow those rivets are strong" you eye tendsto decieve you i think when "lowering" something. it is easier to see the skin, then raise the panel lines so you can just see them correctly.

hope that helps
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