Saitek Cyborg USB hat switch broken

[mauser]

My hat switch is pretty messed up right now.  I have to press pretty hard for a view to stay in place, and sometimes it doesn't stay when I need it the most (like in a knife fight trying not to lost sight).  Previously, the back left position did not work, but after reading a couple of posts here I wrapped masking tape around the stem of the hat switch and at least got that to work somewhat again.  When I had it open and was looking at the switches inside the hat, three out of the four white buttons did not click anymore.  Does anyone know if Saitek replaces these switch circuits?

I'm starting to hate the way they designed the joystick to auto-center.  The plastic on plastic contact where the bevel is forced down onto the hole in the base by the big spring tends to stick with small movements (like gunnery corrections).  I've put wax paper and also cut circles out of aluminum cans to get a smoother bearing surface there.  If the bevel were made of metal I'm sure that would solve the problem here.  However, I think I may have messed the internal circuitry up a little because I have to constantly re-calibrate it.  It's not so noticeable when flying, but when I'm in a gun position in a gv, the gv always starts turning left and I end up doing circles.  Must be that the rudder axis is a little screwed up.  In-flight though, a/c will stay in auto-trim (ctrl-x, alt-x or shift-x).   Not sure how it got that way since I've only opened the base once when this was already happening.  Maybe the plastic that's been wearing away between the stick's bevel and base got into the pots.  

mauser

[snafu]

Hi Mauser,
 Fully agree about the hat switch mine is slowly going the same way, Rear left as well.

About the sticking during small gunnery corrections.... Again I had the very same problem and like you concentrated on the base of the spring before discovering what the real problem was.

The problem is not the base at all if you look "Through" the spring you will notice that the base is attached to a sleeve which slides in the main stick shaft. I'm betting it's this which is causing your problem.

The solution is simple just spray some wax polish onto a rag and feed it through the spring wipe it around the stick shaft while moving the stick, it takes a few applications to get the polish worked down inside the sleeve but mine is smooth as a baby's rear end now. (Still can't hit anything though).

Give it a try.

TTFN
snafu

[mauser]

Thanks for the tip snafu, it did work

After you pointed the sleeve out, I took a look again, and sure enough that's where the plastic to plastic contact is sticking.  It's a lot better now, though now I wish they made both the bevel and the sleeve out of metal or much harder and smoother plastic.  

Thanks again!

mauser

[SC-Mutt]

Hiyas S!

   I'm an old hat (pardon the pun), when it comes to dealing with Saitek issues anymore.  I guess having and using them becomes a true Love/Hate relationship after a while, huh? [hehe]

  Anyway, The BEST 'Hat Switch' FIX I found, is to replace the buttons, and wrap the plastic fixtures they are mounted in with postal string tape, capped in epoxy.

  It's not difficult at all, and all the tools needed are your cordless screw driver, 1/4" Strapping [string] tape, cheap two part epoxy, and 4 front panel buttons from any discarded cd player/vcr/tape deck etc. A decent soldering iron, and some de-soldering wick, or 'solder-sucker' device.

  The switches needed are the ones activated by the "Just push PLAY" /FF/RW buttons.

  Before ya rip em out, chk that they are "clickers". Hold em up to your ear and press them from all angles and listen for a healthy 'snap'. These are the 'keepers'.

  Open the stick, desolder, and remove the buttons.  There are 4 contacts per, w/only 2 used,  [the top 2 are cut off flush].  Oreintation doesn't matter, so u can't put em in upside down.

  Now make your canabalised buttons look like the old ones, [2 legs, tinned lightly, don't overheat!], and reverse the process.

  let them cool a few minutes, and ck for a good weld.

   Once the buttons are all in place, [4 of em], cut some strapping tape down to about 3/16" x 2" and wrap the plastic tower tightly.

  trim the excess,  smooth on a coat of that epoxy, allow it to set, resemble.

   Use a liberal amount of silicone spray, or lithium grease, [non cunductive, non petrolium based. NO Vaseline!!] on the x45 shaft,

  Go kill sumpin'!!

If you have any questions, Or if I can be of some help, feel free to gimme a shout.  I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box, but I try ;D

GL