Author Topic: X45 Question. (Read 1129 times)

storch · « **Reply #30 on:** August 19, 2004, 10:05:19 AM »

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Originally posted by Curval
Will do JB..thanks.

Yea Storch, I feel the same way as JB..I like the tension but the sticking, particularly when trying to make minor corrections can reallt affect one's performance when flying...particularly in gunnery.

I find the stick "groans" when the "sticking" occurs. The groan is the sound of plastic scrapping plastic and/or metal.

I cut two rings off of mine it it hasn't stuck once, one year three months later. The X45 before lasted me three months. I messed it up attempting to unstick it by cleaning with rubbing alcohol and lubricating it with silicon. I purchased it at Best Buys and opted for the two year no questions asked warranty on it. It still is a little difficult to line it up for the fine shots though.

Curval · « **Reply #31 on:** August 19, 2004, 10:16:40 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by storch
I cut two rings off of mine it it hasn't stuck once, one year three months later. The X45 before lasted me three months. I messed it up attempting to unstick it by cleaning with rubbing alcohol and lubricating it with silicon. I purchased it at Best Buys and opted for the two year no questions asked warranty on it. It still is a little difficult to line it up for the fine shots though.

Hmmm....you know then of what we speak.

Does the spring come off without having to unscrew anything?

storch · « **Reply #32 on:** August 19, 2004, 10:39:58 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Curval
Hmmm....you know then of what we speak.

Does the spring come off without having to unscrew anything?

If you pull down (compress) the spring you will find that the top of it is flat like in order to apply equal pressure. I took a pair of very good quality dykes (Klien tools) and cut just where the spring is visible. with great patience, no beer and much profanity fashioned a similar top ring using the cut one as a model. I used a needlenosed pressure plier to hold the spring and an 12" button plier to bend the spring to a flatter angle. It took me quite some time to do as the sping steel is quite hard. I didn't want to dismantle the stick. though it was difficult to do the results justified the trouble for me.

Curval · « **Reply #33 on:** August 19, 2004, 10:45:11 AM »

I'd mess that up for sure.

I might TRY if I had a spare stick but given that I have to import the X45 as you can't find them here I think I'll keep plugging along with the silicone etc.

JB73 · « **Reply #34 on:** August 19, 2004, 10:53:53 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Curval
but given that I have to import the X45 as you can't find them here

hurricanes, can't buy property for tax reasons, no decent Joysticks....

is there a good thing about bermuda?

ROFL

hehehe JK i seen the pics or your totally cool house, and the scenery.

Curval · « **Reply #35 on:** August 19, 2004, 10:56:27 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by JB73
hurricanes, can't buy property for tax reasons, no decent Joysticks....

is there a good thing about bermuda?

ROFL

hehehe JK i seen the pics or your totally cool house, and the scenery.

hehe...I can buy property here and the US....just won't do the latter for reasons already explained.

You have a point on the hurricanes and j/s though.

Murdr · « **Reply #36 on:** August 19, 2004, 11:13:26 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by GScholz
I have a Cyborg EVO (use it with the X45 throttle). What's the problem with the hat switch? What do you do to fix it?

Guess I should have said cyborg 3d gold. My hat is used so much the button contacts of the switches have actually worn groves into the shaft of the hat. These grooves cause dead spots after they become so deep from not depressing the switches fully.
A good long term fix on my last cyborg 3dg was putting small beads of glue in the grooves with a hot glue gun. Seem to have misplaced my glue gun, so I have been wraping over the groves with electrical tape when the dead spots reappear.

storch · « **Reply #37 on:** August 19, 2004, 11:59:36 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Murdr
Guess I should have said cyborg 3d gold. My hat is used so much the button contacts of the switches have actually worn groves into the shaft of the hat. These grooves cause dead spots after they become so deep from not depressing the switches fully.
A good long term fix on my last cyborg 3dg was putting small beads of glue in the grooves with a hot glue gun. Seem to have misplaced my glue gun, so I have been wraping over the groves with electrical tape when the dead spots reappear.

Try a product called JB Weld you will find it at home depot. It's a polymer and will bond very well with the plastic.

Murdr · « **Reply #38 on:** August 19, 2004, 04:41:41 PM »

hehe. yea, Im in construction jb-weld or pc7 is something i always have around. Considered it, but everytime I think of it, I want to use my stick 'right now'. Will have to try to remember to do that when I know I wont be flying till the next day

MrSmog · « **Reply #39 on:** August 19, 2004, 06:44:52 PM »

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Will have to try to remember to do that when I know I wont be flying till the next day

They also have a 15 Minute version called JB Kwik.
I use it at work (Automotive) to do fast repairs.

Try it ,You'll Like it.

Murdr · « **Reply #40 on:** August 19, 2004, 07:12:10 PM »

Thanks for the tips. After the 2 hour drive I just returned from, I decided to use automotive body putty. I already have a supply and it is ready to sand in 15 mins.

Happy1 · « **Reply #41 on:** August 24, 2004, 01:51:35 PM »

Greetings every1

It's very true that eventually silicon will be detrimental to plastics, the best solution is to go to RADIO SHACK
& purchase a lubricant friendly to plastics, I did & never looked back. Name is "RadioShack Multi-Purpose Lube Gel" net Wt. 3oz.

Cost is $3.99, doesn't attract dust, works in -45^ to +450
degrees F, it works on almost any product. Model plane builders & Model plane fliers use it a lot. Item # 64-2326 or 64-2826.

Cheers,

Happy1