Before we start remember this. Stick setups are like opinions. Everybody has their own. Every individual stick set is as good as what works for each person.
You mentioned low G blackouts. I think you'll find blackouts occur when you hit a certain G number...like 6 G's +. The difference in when they occur is directly related to your airpseed. If you are going fast then it doesn't take much to get to the magic number. If you slow down you have to pull more to reach it. At some point you can be moving so slowly that you can't blackout.
Turning radius is a function of the planes wingform, drag, airspeed, gravity and the planes weight, to name a few....For example, if you had two P-51D's turning at the same speed but one had a full tank of gas and the other a 1/2 tank the one with less gas weighs less and turns a tighter circle at the same airspeed. If you're turning nose down gravity helps keep your speed up and the effective turning radius gets larger. Everything effects how a plane flies including adding drop tanks (DT's or rockets (rocs) or eggs (bombs). These items not only add weight but add drag. There are ways to miminize turning radius but this is about setting up your stick. We can address more in another discussion.
I'm old school when it comes to stick setup. My thought is you input a little stick throw and you get a little control surface movement. No more, no less. The reasons will become apparent when you go fly after making these adjustments.
The path to make the change within the game is:
esc/setup/controls/joystick/settings.
When you get there look to top left for the little window that reads "roll" with a little arrow to the right of the window. The window changes so you can adjust each control; roll, pitch and yaw (rudders).
You make the adjustments using the sliders below the window. Take a close look at the sliders. Along the top you see the numbers 0-90 with a slider for each in increments of 10. Let's set the sliders for a good working stick.
First click on the default button below the sliders.
This resets the sliders into what appears to be a set of stairs moving from bottom left to top right. But, the 0 slider is not all the way down to the bottom. Move it all the way down. Now take a moment and realign the rest of the sliders so you get a perfect set of "stairs" that begin at low left (0 slider) all the way up to high right (90 slider). Make sure the 90 slider is all the way to the top. THis is needed so you get absolute full throw on the control surfaces at slow speeds. When you finish do the same for pitch and yaw (if you have rudders).
When you get all of the sliders adjusted then look at the list on the bottom right of the window and go to "calibrate joystick" and do it. Make sure you move all controls, including the throttle as far as they will go.
Ok, go back up the list to "settings" and click it. There are two more sliders to the right. One is "Dead Band" and one is "Damping".
Dead band takes away the spiking that occurs from dirty or old potentiometers (pots). Normally you never need to touch this one. An easy check to see if your sticks "pots" are acting up is to move the stick and look at the blue boxes to the right. If you see the lines jumping (spiking) when you first move the stick then you may want to move the slider up a hair to kill the spike. Only move it enough to stop spiking. No more. Again the newer digital (USB) sticks normally do not need adjustments with the Dead band slider.
Damping is a little different in that it "delays" the onset of control surface movement. We are talkng milliseconds here. It's not much of a delay but its just enough to take away the twiches when your aligning to shoot some dude and he's wigglin. Many folks new to the game have a tendency to yank the stick around a little as they try to get their sights pointed at the guy in front of them for a shot. By sliding the damping bar up about 1/4 inch you lose most of those twitches. Try it and adjust it to where you feel comfortable. But start at 1/4 inch up and fly it for a week.
Ok, how does this affect your flying? A number of ways....
1) No more heavy nose bounce
2) The stick is softer around the center, where you are aligning for the shot, and at all speeds. Yuo will find your kills go up.
3) Twisty stick rudders now work the way they are supposed to.
4) Blackouts become a thing of the past. Try it...
Get up to 4k altitude in just about any plane.
Hit X and let it go level and accelerate.
When it gets up around 290-350, hit WEP (P) if you plane has it, roll the wings left or right 90 degrees and let the nose drop below the horizon and begin to pull harder and harder as it speeds up. You will begin to blackout as the blackout tunnel gets smaller just ease the stick fwd. Do not push it, ease it and you will find you are flying in the tunnel and can still see. Practice it until it becomes second nature. After a while you will normally fly into and hold the plane easily in the tunnel and never blackout again.
Ok, now you've got all that done do one more thing. When you're flying keep a loose grip on the stick. If you find you have a death grip on it then you are holding it too tightly. When you're going to fire at someone before you "squeeze" the trigger release the death grip from the stick and hold it gently then squeeze the trigger. Also, you are flying the plane. It doesn't fly you unless you let it. Make sure you only move the stick the required amount needed to get the job done. The gentler you are on stick the better you will fly the plane.
You also note at the bottom of your post "lose sight, lose the fight". I can show you how to use lift vector to never lose sight again....
Hope this helps.
