Author Topic: Rudder Pedal scaling issue (help?) (Read 230 times)

Krusty · « **on:** November 16, 2006, 01:21:19 PM »

I got the CH analog (non-PRO) pedals up and running, but i've got a problem.

Even with scaling turned off, it seems that only 1/3 of the pedal's motion (each pedal depresses) accounts for 75% of all the range on the input. This makes it very hard to do very tiny movements with my feet while trying to fly.

I was much more capable with the twisty-stick!

So even with scaling turned off, it somehow scales it through hardware or something. Heck if I know. How can I fix this? How can I bypass this? It's nearly impossible to hit my target imput at any given time.

HomeBoy · « **Reply #1 on:** November 16, 2006, 01:45:58 PM »

You're talking about USB pedals right? Have you calibrated these pedals from Windows? Do you get full movement there? You also need to calibrate them from within AH as well. Have you had these pedals opened up at any point? I ask that because if you put the pot back in wrong, you can limit its movement similar to how you are describing. I always plug the pedals in and bring up the Windows Game Devices utility and get the pot working properly before I put the case back together.

Just some ideas. Hope that helps
-mark

***Edit***
Noticed you said "analog" I realize that means "Gameport". Sorry, missed that before. That obviously make everything I said above irrelevant.

Krusty · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2006, 02:40:30 PM »

I have opened them up and handled the pots. Never disconnected them, though.

The pots have a much greater range of motion than is allowed for in the gear/sprocket setup. I *think* I set them up right. They're not hitting the stops or anything, even when fully depressed. Any thoughts?

Krusty · « **Reply #3 on:** November 16, 2006, 02:53:51 PM »

FOLLOW-UP:

You might be on to something there... I opened up the foot plates and freed up the pots. I brought up the windows calibration screen and told it to "show raw data", and it seems that the right pot might be going bad. It has a limited range that actually registers movement, and it was off a bit from how the pedal moved. I re-seated the teeth into the sprocket to give it a little more, and I think it shows some improvement in the calibration screen. I'll try it out in-game again and see if that's any better. Thanks!

Roscoroo · « **Reply #4 on:** November 16, 2006, 02:54:04 PM »

scale the sliders up ... mine start around the 1/2 mark and slow scale up .

here ill do a screenie .. this is close to how alot of us have our peds set .
bolth my RooPeds and my TM peds at work are set up like this.

you want a nice steady response thru the 1st half of rudder offset so you can fine tune your shot ,and for those nice spiral climbs .

Krusty · « **Reply #5 on:** November 16, 2006, 03:08:27 PM »

Got your PM, thanks!

Hrm... very interesting... That's a very large dead-band. It might seem there's not much "fine tuning" allowed with that setup, but I'll definitely give it a shot!

EDIT: P.S. Many thanks for the pot tip! It seems much smoother since I re-seated that right pot!

Roscoroo · « **Reply #6 on:** November 16, 2006, 03:32:01 PM »

the deadband is lower on my TM's and my 1st set of Roo peds that have the saitek stick board inuse.

The pic is my Roopeds #2 w/ my mad catz stick and are the most sensitive and required more Dead band to stop rudder "bounce" when making small rudder input . These are my hardest set to get "slowed down" response wise .
thats also why theres tons of Deadband .

you may also want to start out with more deadband then you would think they need at 1st .this help you get used to them faster too.

Note: beshure you get full deflection when setting deadband or you wont get full rudder .

Spatula · « **Reply #7 on:** November 16, 2006, 03:40:30 PM »

I replaced the pots in my analog pedals like yours, and the first time i reassembled them i got the sprocket teeth meshing wrong. I played around with different seatings until it worked normal again.