My setup and techniques are as follows
I'm not advertising software, it's just the low investment process I chose.
Software:
1) AH Film Viewer
2) Bandicam - is a lightweight screen recorder software for Windows that can capture anything on your PC screen as a high-quality video. This app also makes it possible to record a certain area on a PC screen, or capture a game that uses the DirectX/OpenGL/Vulkan graphics technologies.
3) Bandicut - is super fast video-cutting and joining software with an easy-to-use interface.
It allows users to trim parts of a video quickly while maintaining the quality of the original video. Users can also extract audio from video to MP3, join multiple video files, remove one or more parts from the video, or split the video into multiple files.
4) Windows Movie Maker - Is Free (you can find it in the "Windows Live" package and just install that component. Is a basic video editing app. If you are looking to create a more professional-looking movie, apps such as Adobe Premiere Pro ($20.99/mo) is a better option.
The one down fall I found is that it doesn't support the H264 NVidia NVENC codec, Which is the best setting for Bandicam, otherwise Bandicam should be could be set to produce H264 (CPU) setting. Which could be why i have the sky-banding negative graphic effect with my setup.
I only use .wav files for sound and .avi for video. These are high quality lossless compressions and contain much more data, also a lot larger file size, so check your drive space.
My Current Process;
1) HT can correct me on this. The game and viewer are one in the same. The viewer runs the game, it just reads your personal data file. Settings made in the game effects the film viewer (I think). Example, if I turn down Voice in the game, I also lose it in the viewer. However you run your device to pull the game should also be used when using the viewer, this can avoid glitches. Therefore, I run the game graphics at 100% full tilt, with voice off, and all background process killed.
I record the AH Film Viewer speed at 0.40x. This is the somewhat same as filming slow-motion. It gives the game and video card time to fully draw in the frames and a lot more of them per second. When it's sped up back to normal speed it will give it a smooth effect and full detail.
When I combine everything in Movie Maker to make a video, I speed each clip back up, between 1.4x and 1.6x. I usually use 1.5x. OR I can just leave it in slow-motion.
* Audio problem with changing speeds. even in slow motion the engine sound will remain at somewhat normal speed, when you speed it back up later the engine can sound like a sowing machine, totally unrealistic. So be careful how slow you record, or go as slow as you want (more frames) if you're not using game sound in it. Recording at 0.40x and speeding back up in Movie Maker to 1.5x seems to be a honest spot for me. There are almost infinite ways to achieve the same goal. How much drive space do you have?
2) Bandicam. I don't use the viewer to save to .avi, I simply only use it as a viewer and to get angles, Bandicam does the rest. It's just a shotcut to using the viewer and finding a honey spot for saving clear videos. It's just easier.
Run the AH viewer full size. Set Bandicam to record "Rectangle Area". Set Rectangle area to fit the AH view window. Now what ever you do for angles and speed gets recorded by Bandicam.
3) Bandicut - I take my .avi files from Bandicam and cut clips out of them.
4) I populate Movie Maker with my clips and selected audio and then go to it arraigning clips, usually to sync at least some with song accents. It's easy dragging and dropping. I can also trim clips to fit better. I can then mix the video clip AH sound with, or without, the song volume. Or turn off the clip sound and just use music. Movie Maker has Video (clips) Audio and Project Audio (volume of song) to mix with.
In audio I usually will use "Fast" fading in and out of clips. This smooths out the jarring change in video clip audio from clip to clip.
Sound
If I'm going to enhance the sound/song files, I use the old "Cool Edit Pro", which is now called "Adobe Audition".
When I do I will Normalize to -2db to give breathing room to work with before peaking (clipping) at 0 on the graph.
Then use the "Expand" option, this will help widen the stereo image, and give it a little more presence.
I will then use a Graphic Equalizer to cut obnoxious or un-used frequencies, to clean it up. I will usually slope off frequencies below 40hz and above 10k.
I then Normalize back to 0. You can barely hear these high freqs in your ears, if at all, but the brain is working to exclude the racket it takes in. This can be an irritant for long term listening. did the same to my AH sounds years ago.
That's my chosen low investment process.
Feel free to throw in your own suggestions.