Author Topic: Thrustmaster Cougar.....  (Read 1861 times)

Offline Wlfgng

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #45 on: January 10, 2003, 10:09:01 AM »
lol Drex!

Offline Seeker

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #46 on: January 10, 2003, 12:23:14 PM »
Ghost and Drex:

One thing the Foxy manual is very specific on is:

Never, ever calibrate your cougar via the control panel "games controlers" applet as we are used to doing with other sticks. Doing so makes entries in the windows registry which the Foxy software is unable to over ride.

In fact, if you look in the Cougar program folder there´s an exe file called "regclear.exe" designed specificaly to clean these entries out from the registry. On my machine the path is:

C:\Program Files\HOTAS\regclean.exe

OTH once your stick is up and running, you should still calibrate it within AH, *especialy the microstick, especialy if you're using the microstick for views*

Additionaly, I found that every now and again I get a "ramped dead band". That's to say that the stick has zero travel at centre (as it should); but once it's deflected from centre it jumps to five % instead of having a smooth curve. This can lead to erratic "on the edge" behaviour, and if ignored too long can even lead to "do not move your stick too rapidly" system messages when stall fighting with little or no stick input. Deleting the stick.cfg in \\AH\settings and recalibrating in AH fixes this.

As I said, it's by no means a bad stick. The only question that really matters is: "do you think it's woth ten times any other stick"; and only you can answer that.


SOB:

Wanna know what I'm scared of? One of the Old 'Unz having the smarts to program a macro:

"System: You've been killed by a $9.95 joystick".......

Offline Wlfgng

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #47 on: January 10, 2003, 12:30:52 PM »
Quote
I'd move the cougar stick just slightly on a 1.1k range shot, and it would overcorrect all the time. It could have been just my stick, and I did try everything for 4 months, but after switching back to my older x45, my hit % went up by a factor of 10.

the manual also states that if you leave the default setting of "auto callibrate" then each time you start up your computer you should move all axes a few times in all directions to their extents.. otherwise you have the problem listed above.

I did  this the first time I used it.. calibrated it in TM software and AH.. flew fine.  rebooted and woah!!!  sensitive by a factor of like 40!  
got out of AH, moved the stick all around (pedals, throttle, etc) and everything was fine.

since then I've set it to manual callibrate mode (where it reads the file I created) so I don't have to do this.


just FYI if anyone is thinking of getting rid of their kick-a controllers just because of this.

Offline Revvin

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #48 on: January 10, 2003, 03:57:31 PM »
As for the 'expect better from a stick costing this much' type replies..to buy a CH Pro throttle and CH F16 Fighter Stick would cost me £253, my Cougar cost £250 and has more programmability and made of metal.

Offline Mathman

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #49 on: January 10, 2003, 09:03:27 PM »
FYI for those that recalibrate the Cougar when entering AH.

If you have the same "problem" that I do, it isn't that big of a deal.  Just move the joystick all the way around its axis (i.e. to the extremes).  It is no longer as sensitive as it was.  If the center is off, then you have a different issue/problem than I do.

Also, just so you know, this is the same thing I have to do with my CH Pro Pedals as well.

Offline SOB

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #50 on: January 10, 2003, 09:59:06 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Seeker
SOB:

Wanna know what I'm scared of? One of the Old 'Unz having the smarts to program a macro:

"System: You've been killed by a $9.95 joystick".......


Hehe, that reminds me of the first WarBirds con when I was introduced to real skill...standing behind Pyro as he blew the crap out of everything he saw with a CH Flightstick Pro in one hand and a keyboard in the other, with no rudders in sight.  I can't even imagine doing that myself...without rudders I'd be even more of a dweeb than I am now!


SOB
Three Times One Minus One.  Dayum!

Offline SOB

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #51 on: January 10, 2003, 10:02:43 PM »
Just name the time Drex.  Remember, I only fly first class (nothing is too good when you're buying!) and be sure to stock up on nachos, corn dogs & Jack Daniels.  You know, health food!  :)


SOB
Three Times One Minus One.  Dayum!

Offline Booky

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #52 on: January 10, 2003, 10:09:51 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Mathman
FYI for those that recalibrate the Cougar when entering AH.

If you have the same "problem" that I do, it isn't that big of a deal.  Just move the joystick all the way around its axis (i.e. to the extremes).  It is no longer as sensitive as it was.  If the center is off, then you have a different issue/problem than I do.

Also, just so you know, this is the same thing I have to do with my CH Pro Pedals as well.


Or you can just manually calibrate it and save it to your AH files. Not sure which file it saves it in, tmj, or the other one.

Booky

Offline SC-Mutt

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Thrustmaster Cougar.....
« Reply #53 on: January 12, 2003, 09:48:00 PM »
by gOOb:
Quote
I work at a CNC machine shop and am considering making my own stick using all metal and ball bearings with RC car shocks for springs/dampening. I'll steal the guts outta some other stick and buy some military rated pots. Any interest in these?


SURE Goob, I'm interested!  
Let me know via e-mail what ya come up with. Have you concidered using "Hall effect sensors" instead of pots?

Anyhoo; My current rig is a Thrustmaster-  SW*F22/TQS/RCS HOTAS, (*= Has the 'Stick Works' digital chips installed), which is a "Gameport" system, plugged into my SB Live! X-Gamer's gameport.

IMO, this setup works better than any of the Gameport sticks I've used, (except for the CH-ForceFX), And all of the USB ver.1.0  sticks I've used w/o exception. (Can't speak for USB 2.0, as I haven't used it yet).

Gameport types I've used are:
Logitech- Wingman extreme
MS PPro - 1, 3, and PPro Plus
Saitek - X-36
CH-ForceFX <-- (Only reason I'm not using this now is: no 8 way POV)

-----
USB sticks:
Logitech- WM Extreme Digital,  Digital 3D.

MS- PPro3, FF2

Saitek- X-36 USB/GamPt<-(prone to bad cables), X-45 <--(had 3 of these, bad switches), Cyborg 3D<-(had 2, severe throttle spikes) summary?: Ya get what ya pay for in quality, But MORE than ya pay for in service. (all were replaced free upon return).

Sadly; (As most of you are aware), flight simmers are the smallest consumer group in the game controller market, Yet have the most demanding needs.

You compound the problem when you factor in the "PC" element, since we now have the "Console crowd" competing in "On-Line", and 'Arena' play and threatening to unseat the PC game market.
(I mean, What game developer wouldn't LEAP at the chance to only write code that was compatable with 1 or 2 different types of user, instead of hundreds!?)

I've written to Saitek, Thrustmaster, and CH products, with the suggestion that they change their approach to this ever changing market with a method that would both reduce overall cost for them in R&D, and Production, while allowing for greater quality, and lower overall cost to the consumer.
That being; to offer "Consumer selectable features"

In other words:  The buyer selects a basic controller type; (ie: wheel, JS, GamePad, or HOTAS, and/or Rudder/Peds),  Then selects additional features/functions, or hardware/software etc. as needed/wanted.

This way, The customer gets EXACTLY the controller THEY want/need, and because the manufaturer isn't paying the cost of "Broad based appeal", The buyer can (should) get a BETTER controller.. CHEAPER.

Needless to say... NONE of the aforementioned companies have replied.  AT ALL.

*sigh*

S!