Author Topic: Ran Amok ,,, made my own peds (Read 1476 times)

Roscoroo · « **Reply #15 on:** January 24, 2006, 03:53:14 AM »

it only happened when someone was very close to stick stiring when i was 200 back i basically went to neutral on all inputs and waited for them to cross again for the shot .. thats when i got the only message so far .. thats why i kinda think its close to being a small bug .. i havent duplicated it since though . and have gotten even more aggressive on my settings .

mussie · « **Reply #16 on:** January 28, 2006, 05:36:00 AM »

Nice work Mate, they look like they could take a beating.....

I am looking at making my own Stick, Multi Quadrant Throttle and some other stuff as well, its nice to know I am not the only nut willing to try it

Krusty · « **Reply #17 on:** February 09, 2006, 05:04:26 PM »

Going back to this whole "make your own peds" deal:

How much did this set you back? Parts wise?

You can by pots at radio shack, yes? What does the average (100ohm, I'm guessing??) pot cost? Do you have to raid an existing stick or is there a way to "fake"/make your own controller board?

I've basically accepted I will NEVER be able to afford pedals. I might be able to create my own, however..... Someday.... with lots of trial and error (more latter than former).

WOZ30BAT · « **Reply #18 on:** February 10, 2006, 12:10:51 AM »

Krusty, I can't afford the CH pedals either, but I have a steering wheel & racing pedal combo that I bought @ Wal-mart for $30. AH recognizes the both my X52 & the steering wheel, so I have my rudder inputs set to the pedals & the X52 for everything else. It's crude; I don't have toe brake control but the rudder action works.

Krusty · « **Reply #19 on:** February 10, 2006, 02:07:54 PM »

You mean the brake is one rudder direction and the accelerator is the other?

That might work. Most I've seen have been asymmetrical, however, and I think that would really throw me off (never having had them before)

mussie · « **Reply #20 on:** February 10, 2006, 07:31:10 PM »

Krusty

Buy a cheap stick and use the pot thats in it for your peds.

You may have to desolder the Pot from a PCB and it will take a bit or "creative destruction" but you can make em to any size shape ect that you want.

You could use the buttons on it to setup toe brakes on your peds......

~~Mussie~~

Krusty · « **Reply #21 on:** February 10, 2006, 10:20:11 PM »

Mussie I've got some experience soldering, and if I went out and bought my own iron I could do that, but I have 2 concerns.

1) Actually making the parts strong enough to take feet and weight, and that won't snap or fall apart --- Unlike Rosco there, I can't weld or anything like that. I'm a mediocre woodworker, but can get some things done. The big problem is just fashioning the actual parts (non-electronic schtuff)

2) On another page that showed how to make your own home-made throttle, the 100ohm potentiometer was a sturdy metal piece. In the only stick I've fully taken apart and put back together (Logitech Wingman Extreme 3D) the pots were plastic and crappy as hell. VERY light-weight. Would NOT stand up for use in pedals. Can anyone recommend a good radio-shack pot, or a stick that is wearing the proverbial "Canabalize Me!" sign?

mussie · « **Reply #22 on:** February 10, 2006, 10:51:36 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Krusty
Unlike Rosco there, I can't weld or anything like that.

Yeah that would screw me up to..... Working with metal is impossible without the right tools...

Quote

Originally posted by Krusty
2) On another page that showed how to make your own home-made throttle, the 100ohm potentiometer was a sturdy metal piece. In the only stick I've fully taken apart and put back together (Logitech Wingman Extreme 3D) the pots were plastic and crappy as hell. VERY light-weight. Would NOT stand up for use in pedals. Can anyone recommend a good radio-shack pot, or a stick that is wearing the proverbial "Canabalize Me!" sign?

Another very valid point.....

Roscoroo · « **Reply #23 on:** February 11, 2006, 12:49:50 PM »

I canablized a saitec st290 (29.00 ) twisty type stick . (total cost besides about 4 hrs time)

the saitec has decient Pots and i needed the main controler board from it . the board in my mad catz was burnt out and only supported 2 fourway hats (i wanted the single 8 way hat ) i could of used all of the saitec pots but the mad catz had real good ones to start with so i used those .

as for gathering other parts the local thrift stores are a great place for finding old thustmasters/CH .. (they have better pots that can be used)

stay away from logitec junk the pots are cheap plastic and are useless for for a good setup

for all the alum, moly ,ect parts ... well i just stole them outta the scrap bin at work and sat my tail down in front of the Tig welder for a hour or so.

my new set of peds I'm currently building is using 2 pots from a TM stick wired in series for the center pole .

i'll have to scan all my specs, ohm value's, ect later for ya if your interested . I wrote the whole mess down ..(i believe the pots see a 80 ohm diff from center to full deflection either way )

stay tuned ... more later (after work)

mussie · « **Reply #24 on:** February 11, 2006, 03:27:02 PM »

Cool Roscoroo, we will have to get Skuzzy to start a new forum.....

"The Lab" Or "The Work Shop" Or as my wife would call it "What the hell are you doing now".........

Krusty · « **Reply #25 on:** February 11, 2006, 08:30:01 PM »

lol Mussie

Rosco those scans would be much appreciated, to understand how you figured things out.

Forgive this semi-ignorant question: I can understand having 1 pot per axis, but how do you use 2 pots for 1 rudder movement? Don't they conflict? Or is it all in the way you set them up on the controller board that you pulled from the Saitek stick you mentioned?

Roscoroo · « **Reply #26 on:** February 11, 2006, 11:22:00 PM »

you have 3 connections per pot

1 2 3 no 1 pot

1 2 3 no 2 pot

1 on no 1 pot is AE the left side of the axis

3 on no 2 pot is right side of axis

2 is the neutral on bolth pots and 3 on no 1 gets connected to no 1 on pot 2

it basically reads like a single pot , but gives the setup a smoother elec signal overall .

hubsonfire · « **Reply #27 on:** February 14, 2006, 10:15:17 AM »

Rosco, I'd love to see any of the technical stuff you're worked out on that pedal setup. I've got 2 old Saitek cyborgs and a Logitech that are in various states of dysfunctionality, and have been tinkering with the idea of building either a throttle with lots of buttons, and possibly a second hat, or pedals, but have been loath to try to lay out the schematics. Other than replacing all of the hat switches and some loose connections, I haven't done much in the way of electronic repairs/troubleshooting in years.

I suspect the St90 and the cyborgs (not the EVO, perhaps, but the older ones) use the same basic board, switches, and pots. anyway, I'd be interested in seeing any of this tech stuff you've figured out.

Roscoroo · « **Reply #28 on:** February 26, 2006, 03:25:38 PM »

here we go Roopeds set #2

I tosses some other misc parts there for your comparison..
Im still working on the rotating pads and working out the toe brakes ..

my 1st set was done with a bushing over a Shock stud .. this second set uses a bicycle head/fork post cut down ... i still need to get springs and set up a tenson turn type buckle for them .

Roscoroo · « **Reply #29 on:** February 26, 2006, 03:26:43 PM »

the top side ...