Author Topic: A-5  (Read 630 times)

Offline TheThang

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« on: January 31, 2006, 06:43:40 AM »
I've always been fond of flying the fw-a5 but never seemed to be good with it. Any tips for flying this thing guys?

Offline B@tfinkV

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« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2006, 07:57:22 AM »
i have found that instant turning is vastly improved the lower you stick the throttle. after starting the turn you need to power up to full, or to a certain degree, depending on the turn speed and tightness, untill the turn is complete and you come back to level flight.



you have great guns which ever package you take. some people might say taking a light gun package will do wonders, i dont think this is true. for the small amount of gross mass reduction, the lack of the second set of 20mm is a big loss.


slashing BnZ attacks are the most likely to keep you alive, but try not to go overkill on the speed. its a fine line between staying fast enough not to waste Energy, and getting a good enough chance to hit your opponent.


you have so much ammo, dont be affraid to really hammer the guns on the solutions you get. the convergence will most likely be best suited between 300-400 yrds, as most of you attacks in BnZ mode you should be opening fire from 500 yrds, and finishing the kill by 200.


It turns the best out of any 190, up against a green pilot in a spit16 you should give him something to think about if you are stern with your E management and throttle work.




forcing overshoots is anotheer sure fire killing method. 90% of 190s will run when in a turn fight and losing. if in big trouble a good tactic can be to make a steep dive as if to run away, but keep your throttle closed. good evasives and a decent head for closure rates and E states will give you the chance of fooling your opponent into overshoot. bleed E faster with sideslips and hard G turn and rolls.



against a good stick, in any ride, your 190A5 will not be a good plane to be in a turn fight with.

a common myth is that the 190s will out climb anything with ease, the A5 especially will not even rope a P40 unless you hold a large ammount of E over the enemy.


its accel rate in a dive with the power on is very good, you can simply run away from alot fo the turn fighting rides if you nose down and head for home. E retention in turns and climb will not impress you as well.  a spit 800 on your 6 and hold? do not try and turn or climb steeply unless you intend to turn fight or die. even a flat turn of 90* will give the spit a fine chance to close to within leathal range.




Fly with nother 190 as a wingman.



2 190s working together will take out any single plane in no time as long as you both cover each other and start with a good alt advantage. there are many good squads that excel in luftwaffe rides, try and find one. they usually start with a name of 'JG##'



well, i could say some more but most of what i write is just my experience. if you see me online feel free to ask me to the DA we can do some practice.


S!

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Offline Krusty

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« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2006, 08:19:54 AM »
In theory and in some small number of situations the overshoot works, but in general MA use I have found it does not work most of the time. The situation is never such that the enemy is close enough and fast enough to overshoot, and usually if you force it they see it coming and slow down with you (death sentence). So I'd personally suggest not trying that one unless you don't mind death.

Offline B@tfinkV

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« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2006, 08:35:21 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Krusty
So I'd personally suggest not trying that one unless you don't mind death.


good advice if you dont know what you're doing or you're up against a skilled opponent in a plane the dumps E quickly.

make a choice between running away or trying to fight and die, then decide if an overshoot can work.


a good trick is 'playing dumb' up to about 700 yrds infront of your enemy, while the whole time keeping the power off to drop airspeed. the overshoot, if preapred well and in good time will be your only chance in certain scenarios. what krusty says is very true, but no guts no glory right?
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Offline B@tfinkV

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Find a Good Wingman:
« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2006, 08:38:47 AM »
LINK------------> http://www.freeroleentertainment.com/2190VS2hurriC.ahf


here is a short .ahf film from the Axis vs Allies arena.



the fight shows two 190A5s, fighting 2 hurricane MK2Cs. the hurricanes start high and with a strong advantage.

good comunication and E management ends the fights with two hurricanes low, slow, and dead, and two 190s flying home undamaged.
 400 yrds on my tail, right where i want you... [/size]

Offline Messiah

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« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2006, 02:44:12 PM »
The a5 turns just as good as anything but I prefer the a8 for the guns.
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Offline hammer

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« Reply #6 on: January 31, 2006, 03:56:15 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by B@tfinkV
you have great guns which ever package you take. some people might say taking a light gun package will do wonders, i dont think this is true. for the small amount of gross mass reduction, the lack of the second set of 20mm is a big loss.

Just a consideration... the MG-FFs that get added to the wings have only 60 rds each with a total firing time of about 7 seconds. That is less than 1/3 of the firing time of your other two cannons (~24 seconds) so for a large percentage of your engagement time, you are flying with weights in your wings which do nothing but slow your roll rate a tad and decrease your climb and acceleration a tad (no measurements here).

The rounds from the MG-FF are also the least powerful 20mm round in the game (I'll have a page up soon, but it took 857 MG-FF rounds firing stationary at point blank range to kill a fighter hangar compared to only 685 for the hispano / m2 20mm. The "base" was the U.S. .50, at 2374, so the MG-FF is still worth a couple of .50s).

As with any option, it comes down to personal preference but it helps to have all the information possible to help make a decision.
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Offline Krusty

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« Reply #7 on: January 31, 2006, 04:56:48 PM »
Hammer:

The MG/FF are not the LEAST powerful, but merely have the worst trajectory of all 20mms in the game (save for, perhaps, the early Japanese cannon, don't remember its name). They are about par with the MG151/20s damage wise, despite ballistics.

The MG/FF has the same amount of ammunition as the 109E. 109Es can (and do) get 3-4 kills per sortie alone with 60rpg.

4x20mm is still twice as many 20mm rounds hitting target as 2x20mm. Taking the 4-gun package does help. For the entire time period you have ammo in those guns you will land much harder snapshots.

The weight, when you compare the total weight of the 190 (a heavy plane, coming in at 3 tons), a couple hundred pounds for some extra guns isn't much of a difference. Some might think it's like the p47s, less guns makes it fly better, but it's not really, because most of the p47s weight is guns and ammo, not so on the 190. Most of the 190s weight is the plane itself. That won't change regardless of loadout :)

Offline hammer

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« Reply #8 on: January 31, 2006, 05:46:34 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Krusty
The MG/FF are not the LEAST powerful, but merely have the worst trajectory of all 20mms in the game (save for, perhaps, the early Japanese cannon, don't remember its name). They are about par with the MG151/20s damage wise, despite ballistics.

Number of rounds to kill a fighter hangar from point blank range, hardness set to 1:

U.S.   M2 20mm      685
U.S.   M1      685
England   Hispano II   685
England   Hispano V      703
Japan   Type 99 Mk2   720
Germany   MG 151/20   785
USSR   ShVAK      799
USSR   B-20      799
Japan   Type 99 Mk1   808
Japan   Ho-5      829
Germany   MG-FF      857

The MG-FF is the least powerful 20mm, at least for killing hangars at point blank range.


Quote
The MG/FF has the same amount of ammunition as the 109E. 109Es can (and do) get 3-4 kills per sortie alone with 60rpg.

4x20mm is still twice as many 20mm rounds hitting target as 2x20mm. Taking the 4-gun package does help. For the entire time period you have ammo in those guns you will land much harder snapshots.


Didn't say it didn't add up, just said it only lasted for less than 1/3 the time of the other two cannon. Like I said, it's good to have all the info when making a choice, but in the end it comes down to personal preference.

Edit: Just did some quick checks... Adding the MG-FFs adds about 2.5 seconds for a WEP climb from runway to 5k, and about 1/2 second in accelleration from 200 to 250 at 5k. Not much overall.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2006, 06:44:56 PM by hammer »
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Offline 1K3

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« Reply #9 on: January 31, 2006, 10:35:50 PM »
Fw-190 tactics: 190A-4 to D-9
ripped from http://www.airwarfare.com/tactics/tactics_fwtactics.htm
Tactics by Hunde_3.JG51 (Kyrule)

NOTE: These are edited so it applies to Aces High 2

Quote

The Basics

Use wingman and friendlies, I can't emphasize this enough. The 190 is NOT a lone wolf plane but is an excellent 4 vs. 4 (or more) plane. Often you can simply out-run pursuers and let your buddies pick them off of you. As long as energy is equal or to your advantage, speed and high speed handling will keep you alive. If you don't have advantage, work to at least even it out then 9disengage.

Always keep in mind that almost every plane will out-turn you in sustained turns, and almost every plane will out-climb you in sustained climbs. Never think you can out-turn someone, unless flying at very high speeds but this is more for defensive than offensive value. Never rely on climb either, with the Dora it is more acceptable.

If you do try to climb away, do so at higher speeds than in most planes. The 190A likes to climb at around 350 or so km/h, don't climb below that speed. Remember also that above 2,000m your climb will start to fall off even more, though speed will increase. The 190 seems to like it around 1,500m and below, and between 4,500m and 6,000m.

Gain altitude whenever you can. Engage with an advantage, disengage if you lose it or get jumped. Split-s works great as climbing will get you shot and other planes will out-turn you. Keep the fight at high speed where your plane handles as good as anyone's, if not better.


The Setup

Find your opponent first and stalk him. Don't fly straight at him as soon as you see him. Try to determine where he is heading and sneak in on him. Try to imagine what he sees and where his blind spots are. When diving in on him get as low as possible to stay out of sight, but don't sacrifice your speed advantage.

Know other planes strengths, where they are faster and where you are faster. For example, drag a Mustang to the deck or up to 5,000m or so, in between 1,000m and 4,000m (and above 6,500m) he will be stronger. Knowing where planes are stronger takes alot of time and testing, but it is very useful if you want to employ tactics properly, especially if you want to disengage.

When attacking an opponent do not follow unless they are making gentle turns. If you are lining him up and he banks hard, simply break off and climb away. He has now lost energy and you have increased your advantage. Try to force him to evade and bleed energy. Not great for Hollywood movies but very effective at gaining an advantage.

Use high yo-yo's when making high speed attacks at slower opponents. Make your attack, pull up sharply, flip over on your back, look straight up (down at your opponent), wait until he flies beneath you, then dive down on him again.


The kill

Fire at very close range, don't fire from far off and alert your opponent prematurely during your attack run. In some, more manoeuvrable planes you want to scare them and force them to manoeuvre, not in the 190. Be accurate.

Learn high speed gunnery, it is much different than TnB gunnery. Learn to anticipate more while your opponent is manoeuvring rather than following. I recommend setting up a QMB with a couple A-5's against a bunch of Hurricanes. This will teach you about gunnery at high speed against a slower opponent.

Use rudder corrections alot, it is part of high speed gunnery. If your opponent changes direction at the last moment you can kick your rudder at the last second and get a burst on him. This takes practice but with time it will be done unconsciously and will make you a much better shooter. And after awhile you will not even notice "the bar," (ammo counter) I swear.

like to trim the nose down a good bit from start, I fly the 190 at high speed more often than not and I don't need the nose pulling up on me, this can really effect your gunnery if not accounted for, especially flying at 600-700km/h.

Head-ons are acceptable in the FW-190A, maybe the only plane in the game where this is the case. You should come out the victor in a head-on attack because of your excellent firepower and engine durability. More importantly your opponent often will be less than willing to go head-on and will take evasive action, so you simply climb up and use his manoeuvre against him. When going head-on I usually aim slightly high because the bullets/rounds will drop and because I want to force him down or to the side. This is one case where it is good to fire from farther out, don't worry about wasting ammo you have plenty.


Et Cetera

Evasive manoeuvres can be very effective at high speed. You should be going fast anyway, but if not dive, jink, and gain speed. Severe manoeuvres when an opponent is behind you, even to the point of blackout as long as you are aware of angle the blackout is induced at, can be effective because if he wants to follow chances are he will blackout also. Try to ride the edge and not black-out, this takes experience. If blacked-out make subtle manoeuvres because you will often still have minor control of your aircraft.

I prefer to set convergence for cannons at 500m (475 yards), the rounds/bullets leave your aircraft at a much flatter angle than say at 200m, keeping them more level in your gunsight and making deflection shooting easier. At 200m your rounds actually leave the aircraft at a slight downward angle, you don't need four cannons to hit in the same spot anyway. 500m also gives you a bigger hitbox, or more "spread."

Look for the 109's. Focke Wulfs and 109's compliment each-other well. These two planes have different fighting styles and strengths and combining the two can only make both of you more effective.





Quote
190D's contemporaties


D9 vs P51.

This is going to be a really tight match here. Both planes had nearly identical extreme edge performance during heavy manoeuvring and they seem to be very closely matched. The mustang has an edge in turn rate still I think but now the D9 has an advantage in acceleration, which is very useful during E fighting at close ranges. This matches up very well with many of the historical accounts.  My money is on the D9 because of the superior acceleration, and maybe because I simply fly it more. The main thing here is to [/b]avoid sustained turns with the mustang and try to keep the fight in the vertical,[/b] though not necessarily by looping mind you. Don't forget the scissors, when all else fails you can usually force an overshoot or horizontal parity if you fly it right.


D9 vs La7.

Here's another tough match with the advantage overall being with the La7, unless the D9 pilot is very very good. The skill level to fly both planes is markedly different, so the average D9 jock is going to be outclassed by the average La7 jock simply because the La7 is much more of a point and shoot aircraft. This is where it's important to be really familiar with the D9 and to know it's fine edge, because the only way to beat an La7 is to either BnZ with altitude advantage, or E fight him on that exact fine edge. The La7 climb rate should be the same as the D9, E retention is going to be better, La7 turn rate obviously extremely better and SL speed is nearly the same so outrunning the La is going to be risky at close range. The only definite advantage the D9 has over the La7 is dive speed (and hopefully now dive acceleration) but while diving is great, by itself it doesn't win fights. A smart La7 driver is going to break off his dive before you do and hover at a higher altitude, so use caution before hitting lightspeed in the dive. You might be able to get down faster, but he might be waiting for you to come back up.


D9 vs Spitfire

This one is finally fixed and imho is no contest, the D9 is going to outfly the Spit. The spit bleeds E during turns now and can no longer do the vertical 180 degree reversal and catch the D9 like it can in 2.04, which never made sense anyway. The easy way to defeat the spit is to stay faster and stay in the vertical...it's not a strong vertical dogfighter anymore and this is where the D9 is going to shine. Naturally avoid turning with the spit unless at very high speeds but even then I prefer to spend the energy climbing rather than burn it turning around. Think not only of relative E state when flying the 190, but also of total E state...if relative E states aren't going to change, then make moves that help your total E state instead of lowering it. You will stay the same with your enemy, but increase your E state and safety margin compared to everyone else. Sustained climb rate is in the D9's favour, but again remember the steep-climb, this is particularly effective against the spitfire. Be cautioned way up high though...the spit really did have a great high altitude climb and the D9 is still not the best high altitude performer. Since the spit has had it's E retention tuned, it doesn't appear to be the high altitude nightmare that it used to be, which appears much more realistic imho.
« Last Edit: January 31, 2006, 11:42:52 PM by 1K3 »

Offline 1K3

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« Reply #10 on: January 31, 2006, 11:15:42 PM »
Quote
More useful info

The only thing I would add is that when I see tracers I immediately apply full negative elevator (fully press forward on the stick). The 190 has good elevator response and this is usually enough to throw off your attackers aim long enough for you to perform your half-roll and dive. I like to very gently turn/jink during my dives just in case he is following close. The dive followed by a reversal (another half-roll and pull-out) is effective. Your only concern with this manoeuvre is that you have sufficient altitude and that you don't perform your reversal so late as to build speed past your critical limit.

Another manoeuvre that can be effective when you don't have as much altitude and speed but have clouds nearby is a steep diving, fairly tight corkscrew. It is extremely difficult for anyone to hit you when performing this manoeuvre but you have to be careful with the stick. Again, this is effective when clouds are nearby, when you pull out of the corkscrew you may be vulnerable but the idea is to finish the manoeuvre in a cloud or very close to one.

Also, if you have a plane that you cannot shake that handles as well as yours at most speeds (P-51, P-47, etc), even after you performed other manoeuvres, you can try a harsh, desperate manoeuvre that induces blackout. Just remember that even when blacked out you often still have minor control on your plane so don't just sit there, use gentle inputs on the stick to keep from being a static target. Also, be very aware of the angle that you induce blackout and where this will lead, you don't want to blackout when descending at anything but the slightest of angle. This is dangerous and you need alot of speed but if someone is stuck to you then it might be enough to save you or buy you time as they simply cannot follow without blacking out themselves. It sounds desperate, and it is, but it should not be

It is best to shoot then climb/extend away. Don't follow him into turns unless they are very gentle. P-47 pilots often adhered to the rule that any turn greater than 90 degrees was unacceptable, and this holds true for the 190 as well IMO. I find a straight zoom climb followed by a Hammerhead preferable to a gentle combat/climbing turn unless there are others about who you do not hold a significant energy advantage over. In this case a longer extension/climb followed by a combat turn is probably your best bet.

For the reasons I mentioned above it is easy to see why the 190 is a(n) excellent plane to use when you have a wingman or wingmen, but it is not the best 1 vs. 1 plane unless you have a decent altitude/energy advantage. The utilisation of the hammerhead can be useful in low combatant encounters as well. If all else fails the 190 has excellent escapability with its great high speed handling, roll-rate, and speed at sea-level. If jumped by an opponent with a severe advantage a split-s into a dive works well as he will bleed his energy turning around (or require a much larger area/radius to perform his split-s), and if he is stuck to your 6 o'clock a split-s, into a jinking high speed dive, followed by another split-s (or variations of it) can be helpful in eliminating his advantage and supplying you with the needed space to simply out-run your opponent. Never simply fly straight in these manoeuvres, keep moving but do it gently so you do not bleed speed while performing them but rather you build it. Don't be predictable. If someone is behind you, the last thing you want to do is climb (presenting an easy target), and most planes will out-turn you, so your best bet is to dive/split-s and build speed quickly where you can use your high speed handling, roll-rate, and level speed to your advantage.

As for diving in on opponent I prefer a fast, fairly sharp dive to a point slightly above and directly behind my opponent, from there I use a shallow dive to attack point. I dive sharply at the beginning so I can get down and out of sight. If you use a shallow dive and remain high above him you will likely be spotted.

Offline B@tfinkV

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« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2006, 04:26:18 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by hammer
Just a consideration... the MG-FFs that get added to the wings have only 60 rds each with a total firing time of about 7 seconds. That is less than 1/3 of the firing time of your other two cannons (~24 seconds) so for a large percentage of your engagement time, you are flying with weights in your wings which do nothing but slow your roll rate a tad and decrease your climb and acceleration a tad (no measurements here).

The rounds from the MG-FF are also the least powerful 20mm round in the game (I'll have a page up soon, but it took 857 MG-FF rounds firing stationary at point blank range to kill a fighter hangar compared to only 685 for the hispano / m2 20mm. The "base" was the U.S. .50, at 2374, so the MG-FF is still worth a couple of .50s).

As with any option, it comes down to personal preference but it helps to have all the information possible to help make a decision.



a very good point.


as you mention, its down to presonal pref.    

I would advise anyone flying the A5 from scratch to try out fisrt the lighter gun package, then add another set of guns next sortie. see which you prefer.



my reasons for opting for the 4X20mm is as krusty says, snapshots and quick chances will be easier with twice as many guns.







good posts everyone.
 400 yrds on my tail, right where i want you... [/size]

Offline TheThang

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« Reply #12 on: February 01, 2006, 07:06:03 AM »
Well if you look at the actual tragectory of the FF as t the 20, you can see the huge difference. Whilst turning overshoot shots, theres no chance in hell both types would hit your target, its just not possible. But as for a BnZ pilot (you evil people) this would work well because your not usually turning.  My flying characteristics in fact make me use the lighter load out.  Also as you have mentioned above about cutting throttle to turn, It works. I've learned this a long time ago and never understood why. But if you cut your throttle and enter a turn then flip on your throttle you'll be turning with a spit 8-16 quite easily. I'm not sure why but the a-5 can take on virtually any plane in the MA with ease.

Offline Krusty

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« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2006, 10:23:23 AM »
One other tip, I don't think it's been mentioned here:

Don't fly with combat trim!!!!! The 190 has great elevator authority, so much so, that it can stall out with harsh movements at any speed (well, it used to be able to, and still does on occasion). When you have that much elevator control, you don't want to dampen it with combat trim. I use CT for high speeds, for when I'm positioning and the like, and firing, but I try to leave it off for manuvers. I have it mapped to a button on my stick