Author Topic: i am doing something cool when not on internet! (Read 6404 times)

frank3 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 29, 2006, 07:27:45 AM »

Working on a Me-109E-1 myself, still under construction!

Krusty · « **Reply #16 on:** August 29, 2006, 07:59:56 AM »

Nirvana:

Dip your clear parts in Future. That prevents the CA vapors from fogging the clear parts. I also use it before and after decals (to ensure they have no bubbles/silvering, and to lock them in) then I do a dull coat.

The camo looks flat for the most part, but it's got one or two slightly thick areas, if you look closely. I'm still happy with it. The paints I used were ModelMaster Acryl so the paint itself is thin, even after I let some of the carrier evaporate before applying it.

Mostly it's just noticable in the areas I messed up on -- the areas I had to go over and over on to get the camo right.

Charge · « **Reply #17 on:** August 29, 2006, 02:11:36 PM »

What the heck is Future? I mean what chemicals is it made of? I have seen many references to it on modelling pages.

-C+

Krusty · « **Reply #18 on:** August 29, 2006, 02:15:19 PM »

Johnson and Johnson "Future" floor wax. It's an acrylic clear that has what they commonly call a "self leveling" nature -- that is it has a low viscosity, so you won't blob one area and spread another too thin.

It works great on models because of the way it dries, and the way it refracts light. If you dip a clear part in future it often makes the plastic look thinner, but only because of the way its helping the light pass through the part.

It's an acryilic, as well, so you can put it on clear parts without fear of fogging. Once on, if the part is completely covered, CA and other glues will not fog that part.

Unfortunately they only sell it in huge-arsed bottles for floors. I'd like something half that size for modelling.

EDIT: This stuff

(bottle shape and size may vary)

EDIT2: One of the better references out there:
The Complete Future

nirvana · « **Reply #19 on:** August 29, 2006, 05:17:40 PM »

Thank you, they have little bottles of stuff to keep decals in place but i've never used it. As far as i'm concerned i've never been more of a n00b in the modeling world in the 6 or so years. Best ever paintjob was on a Big Beautiful Doll, then i\I screwed up on the nose by trying to use a paintbrush with enamels, super thick and it didn't dry for days. I also screwed up the decals on it, rushing once again.

Krusty · « **Reply #20 on:** August 29, 2006, 05:31:46 PM »

Those little bottles are different. Those little bottles are decal solvents. They make the decal "melt" around and bumps, shapes, panel lines, and details. I've never used those before, but I've seen models that used them. Since the decal melts into the surface it makes it look more and more "painted on".

Future is pretty low on the skills chart. You just dip parts in and let them dry with a cover (to prevent lint/dust) and viola. You use it like a clear coat (and it actually strengthens the parts, too) before and after decals and decal silvering will be gone.

It's just an extra step, but nothing you don't know how to do already. I was surprised how easy it was to use.

nirvana · « **Reply #21 on:** August 30, 2006, 12:05:37 AM »

I was at the Testors website and was reading into painting, as i could use help there. I also pulled out my F15E and surprisingly, it's not looking half bad for being smashed in storage for 5 months or something, there is room for serious touch up though, large gap between the cockpit and main fuselage, i'm also going to need to grab some Testors gray to match it. Was also trying some "Weatering" with sandpaper, not too bad but I don't know how extensive i'll actually get.

You said you were foiling, i've heard it's extremely time consuming and requires a large amount of skill. The buffing metals from Model Master looked like they would fantastic for a job like that, just rub the paint and it gets shiny. It sounded a little labour intensive, but what isn't. There's a lot of stuff to try, i'm thinking a Hurri Mk. 1 or a B29 for my next project, even though i'm sitting on 5 models currently.

Saxman · « **Reply #22 on:** August 30, 2006, 01:30:55 AM »

I've been reading up on some articles about weathering techniques (mostly researching what others builders have done with F4U-1As since that's my project) and one of them is to use Testors Metalizer as a base coat of sorts, then applying acrylic over that, which then allows the paint to be literally chipped away to expose the "bare" metal underneath since the acrylics don't adhere to the metalizer, then sealing the rest with future.

taylortanklover · « **Reply #23 on:** August 30, 2006, 08:35:38 AM »

well, an update on my model i completed it with like less than a drop off glue! It was hard but i did it! now all i have to do is paint it and put the decals on!

Krusty · « **Reply #24 on:** August 30, 2006, 08:43:31 AM »

Nirvana: for those metal masters paints, you need to have a 100% *perfect* finish, as any and EVERY scratch or imperfection will be amplified by the shiney metal. It takes a lot more preparation, with several coats of paint required before even putting on the metal. I've read up on it a bit, read about how others used it. I'm not ready for that, personally. The foil is taking forever. Maybe that's because I don't have time to work on it?

At any rate it takes only medium skill, once you know how to put the glue on the foil and put the foil in place. Then it just takes time.

I'd shy away from using sandpaper to simulate weathering. I'd rather suggest you go the "additive" way and add paints on top to make it look like there's wear and tear. Sandpaper is good, however, for wearing down winter whitewash on LW/VVS planes.

Saxman: I tried something similar a long time ago. I put aluminum down on an area, then a flat grey (top of an F3 Phantom wing) and once all was dry, I just took a piece of scotch tape and made a loop, like I was making a lint remover, and tapped it onto the grey. It pulled up some of the matt paint and the aluminum showed through! I don't know how you'd get smaller chunks to pull up, mine were fairly large (smaller strip of tape, perhaps?)

taylortanklover · « **Reply #25 on:** August 30, 2006, 08:52:59 AM »

i do the scaled plastic ones they r kind of a bit harder, cause they r the only thing i can find and honustly they r a bit more chalanging the smaller they r!

taylortanklover · « **Reply #26 on:** August 30, 2006, 11:12:27 AM »

i am going to paint it navy blue w/ water camo! how does that sound i need some opinions for pait tell me some if u have any!

Krusty · « **Reply #27 on:** August 30, 2006, 11:18:04 AM »

That's for the Helldiver, right?

I think you're limited to blue paint schemes for that plane. Often I'll just use the paint schemes included with the instructions.

taylortanklover · « **Reply #28 on:** August 30, 2006, 11:22:56 AM »

yes the helldiver! i get really confused when i read those instructions i do it by usuing my mind!

Krusty · « **Reply #29 on:** August 30, 2006, 11:23:47 AM »

Well the instructions help a lot. They give top, side, bottom, and other views so you know exactly where the paint and decals go. Just an FYI.