Restart issue

[-CodyC]

I gave it a helluva cleaning 2 months ago to try and fix the problem.  I'll do it again and also look into buying another power supply.  I hope this helps me out.  Will let you know and thanks for the help.

[38ruk]

Did you remove the Heatsink when you cleaned it? If you didn't i would take it off and make sure the thermal compound is still good, not dried up and cracking or crumbling.  

If you removed it , what thermal compound did you use when reseating it ? Did you use too little , or too much? On a 2500+ barton a small pea sized amount will be more than enought. When buying a T. Compound look for ARTIC SILVER , it's one of , if not  THE  best around . I have a practically new Barton heatsink fan if you need it , i used an aftermarket one from day one .   38

[Clutz]

Here is what I am thinking CodyC.

If 52c is to hot at idle, then something is drawing an inappropriate load or has to much voltage and is manifesting itself as heat (considering your heatsink and cooling are adequate).

It may be a bios setting. I would take out the battery and switch the little default jumper the mobo has and then put them both back. CAUTION: THIS MAY CHANGE YOUR DEVICE SETTINGS! But, if you never fooled with the bios before then stock is probably OK for you. Save your files first!

You may have a circuit that is shorted enough to draw an undue current, but not enough to start things frying. At least not yet.   If this is the case, this is not good. It means chasing down the culprit. What is drawing the current? Is it the video card? Is it the sound card? Is it some little who knows what the hell that is on the mobo? Rosco maybe be right on. It may be bunk mobo capacitors, or such.

If I were you I would pull all the cards, drives, and whatever you can to get the system down to as simple thing as it can be to access your bios for temp readings. I'm guessing here, but I think you need a psu, mobo, processor, at least one stick of ram, and a keyboard to start the computer. If you do this and the computer runs cool, you are on your way. Basically, you are playing a detective game at this point.

As far as a 300 w psu goes, I can't imagine such a small psu. However, even though it may not be enough under load for the computer, I imagine it should be no problem running your computer at idle. Besides, if the psu was lacking power, I can't see that making a heat issue; I would say quite the contrary.  Also, your voltages are steady for the cpu, so I am hoping that is an indication your psu is at least capable to start things up.

Disclaimer: If things get hairy and start frying don't say I told you what to do! Good luck.  

Clutz

[-CodyC]

Interestingly enough my bios indicates a CPU temp of 46C and MB temp of 21C while Asus Probe is saying that CPU temp is 38C and MB temp of 20C.  Why would there be that much of a difference in CPU temp between the two?  Also the link you gave me worked but the ftp site was down.  So i downloaded a newer version of it after searching on google, does it matter?

Clutz, would faulty wiring in a house cause this?  For example, my power strip has an indicator light on it which lights up when there is a wiring problem in the house.  Also about a month ago i got a heck of a shock from touching a screw on my tower, unplugged the power supply and still got a shock.  Found out the shock was coming from the video cord.  I unplugged the video cord, plugged the power cable back in and got the same shock.  So it was obvious that there is a bad ground.  I have since changed outlets, same indicator light comes on, but haven't gotten shocked yet (note that was the first time it had ever happened, plus it had just rained and a lightening storm had come through, if that had anything to do with it).  Also, if my computer is requiring more power to work, wouldn't that fry the power supply if the computer is trying to draw more power than is available?

Oh and right now Asus probe says CPU is idle at 39C and i bet if i restart now and go into bios it'll say between 46 and 48.

[-CodyC]

Just check, BIOS showed CPU temp at 46, Probe indicates 37C, so i dunno.

As far as the heatsink 38ruk, im not even sure if this is a stock or aftermarket.  It looks more like an aftermarket though, kinda looks like a big copper radiator with two copper hoses on one side.  Also i didn't remove it, but if Asus probe is correct then it is idling at the correct temperature. I dunno.

Clutz the only card on the MB is the video card, i pulled everything else off in an attempt to eliminate this problem.  Sound is onboard, 1 HD, 4 additional USB ports, 3 drives, floppy, DVD, and CD.  4 fans running on it, 1 on heatsink of CPU and GPU, 1 on back and 1 on front, plus power supply fan of course.  An additional 10" fan is always blowing on it.

[Clutz]

I am not sure about adequate ways for checking temps. I have never needed to do so. I have read in forums about temperature discrepancies and it sure seems you have one here. My guess now, is you are not running hot. Just a guess mind you. This needs to be figured out. I think most of those forum guys use CPU-Z or something like that. ???

Bad electric will definitely mess you up in all kinds of ways. Also, there is a such thing as "clean electricity" and "dirty electricity". Make that that light on your power strip go away. It is probably telling you what you already have guessed. You have a bad ground. Take the power strip to a neighbors house and plug it in. If the light goes out, either take your computer to his house or run and extension cord, preferably a thick one, out of the window in your trailer, ( just kidding), I mean house.... to his house and try that. Consider that his house may contain the same electrical abnormalities as your house may have when testing.

I'm not sure what you mean when you say "video cord" but I'm guessing you have another device in your house, connected to your computer, struggling for the same ground your computer may be struggling for, that is not there. If this is the case, unplug it. Or, you are speaking of your monitor cord. It doesn't really matter. Get a good ground.  You can stick a pipe in the dirt and run a wire to it if you have to. By the way, that shock you speak of maybe have harmed your computer. That is one thing the ground is for. So unwanted electricity has a place to go. Take me serious. Having a faulty ground is a pet peeve of mine. People die because of this.

Usually psu's have a built in shut off feature. If you overload it will cut itself off and it takes about 3 to 5 mins to cut itself back on. I guess this feature is only so perfect depending on your psu. I guess if you push a psu hard enough it would fry. I know for sure if you suck out all of your psu's power you computer will definitely cut off. I don't actually think you have pushed your psu above its power rating. If you had you would have suffered this 5 min delay already. Have you? I have had many psu's over load and they always take a few mins to cut back on (at least in my experience).

Now keep in mind, just because your psu is getting steady volts to your cpu, that doesn't necessarily mean it has enough juice to light your video card. Another thing to try is unplug your excess drives. If your psu is lacking this may help. Unplug your computer power cord where it goes into the psu and then hit your computer start button and hold it for 20 seconds. This bleeds off stored electricity that may short when installing and removing components.

Clutz

[Photon]

Had a similar problem myself.
My PC was rebooting unexpectently when playing Aces High and Microsoft Flight Sim X. I thought it was my CPU over heating but finally work out the problem.

Updating my sound card drivers help but the problem was a faulty fan on my video card.

I have a MEDION RADEON x740XL video card.

I Replaced the Video card fan with an Arctic Cooling VGA Silencer ATI 1, Rev2
http://www.arctic-cooling.com/vga2.php?idx=36
(had to modify it slightly to get it to fit, but fitted fine)

Now my PC works fine.

Hope you work out your problem, I know how painful it can be to narrow it down.

--photon

[Irwink!]

Sorry Clutz but your grounding tips are bogus and potentially dangerous. Search in some electrical forums for stray currents/proper grounding and you may learn why.

If you're getting shocked by anything in your house then call an electrician if there's no readily apparent reason. Even though you changed the outlet the outlet may have had the polarity reversed. I don't know. I'm not there. That's why you need to call an electrician. Don't call a buddy or a plumber who claims to know something about it.

[Clutz]

Originally posted by Irwink!
you need to call an electrician. Don't call a buddy or a plumber who claims to know something about it.

This is very good advice Irwink.

Originally posted by Irwink!
Sorry Clutz but your grounding tips are bogus and potentially dangerous.  

Obviously, this forum can contain all types of advice from very good to very bad. We are just tossing ideas around. As far as anything I have said about making a ground, or anything for that matter, take heed and get the proper professional help where needed. The word "you" may not specifically and literally mean "you".  

That being said, if you are referring to my idea of sticking a pipe into the dirt, this device is called a "grounding rod". As far as I know, it is a legitimate way of securing a ground if done properly (I don't know about building codes or anything like that). I know this: I asked my father years ago, an electrical engineer, how grounds were made and he told me they stick a pipe in the dirt and run a wire to it. Obviously, this was a generalization. He also told me that sometimes grounds are made buy connecting to a water pipe.  

I have a house that is 70 years old. It has no grounding in some of its electrical circuitry. I have an old Marshall tube amplifier that desperately needed a ground. It was buzzing and messing up my sound. I drilled a hole threw the wall, stuck a pipe in the ground and ran a wire to it. Problem solved. Obviously, this is not code. It is however a ground. Do not do this at home!

Clutz

[-CodyC]

Im referring to video cord from the monitor to CPU.  I was able to touch the metal on the plug and get a good shock while the monitor power cord was plugged in.  

I've never experienced a 5 minute wait, it always just restarts.  

The weird thing is that i've only gotten that shock on one occasion.  I guess if there is just a small amount of unneeded electricity it can raise the temperature of the computer.  But the computer, according to Asus probe runs steady at 38 and while playing aces high it jumps to 47.

[Clutz]

Originally posted by -CodyC
Im referring to video cord from the monitor to CPU.  I was able to touch the metal on the plug and get a good shock while the monitor power cord was plugged in.  

Maybe this was static electricity finding a source for discharge.. Maybe it is electricity bleeding threw your monitor that has no place to go because you have no ground in your house. Maybe, something is bleading onto ground but its not enought to short circuit and your tester is telling you this. I don't know. It could be many things. However, you say your power strip has a light on it that tells you the condition of the electricity in your house. This is were I would start my thinking if I were you. Forget about your computer for now. Unplug it. Unplug anything you have on that house circuit and see if that helps. It may be someting you have on the other side of the house. Who knows? Make sure you have good electric in your house. Find out why that lite is on. You don't want to grab a metal toaster over, for example, that has a short running to its case if your house has no ground. I guarantee you at this point (GOD forbid) your computer ailments will be about the least important thing on you mind. It's not funny actually. I have lost a couple of friends by way of electrocution. Not counting the one guy that was on death row.

On a side note: I have never had an outlet strip that told me the condition of electricity. I have a little tester that I got from Home Depot that does. Basically, it just tells me if there are volts and a ground present, I think. I assume the strip is as you say, with a built electricity tester. Investigate this.

Please be careful as Irwink has pointed out. He made a good point about  the need for getting qualifyed assistance. I am not qualifyied. Don't do anything dangerious or stupid. This light you speak of and you talkng about getting shocked really have me concerned. Your safety is first and formost.

Clutz

[Roscoroo]

there shouldnt be that much diff between asus probe and the temps in the bios.

on mine its within 1 deg  .

hmm heat pipe cpu cooler ??? does it have the extra support it needs or is it hanging free and heavy on the board ??

[The Fugitive]

You can buy a tester to check your wall outlet. RadioShack use to sell them, I think Home Depot carries them too. They are small block a bit bigger than one of those "adapters" people use to plug a 3 pronged plug into a 2 pronged outlet. They have LED's to let you know if your outlet is grounded correctly, and the polarity of the outlet. Last time I saw them they were only a few bucks. I'd start there. If it turns out that your outlet has a reverse polarity(which would explain the shock), it could also mess with the powersupply in your computer. Easiest way to fix it would be to use a short extension cord, and swap the wires on one end. Correct way would be to have an electrician fix your outlet.

Next clean the CPU cooling fins and replace the thermal paste. That stuff gets old and dries up and looses some of it conductivity, and you really want to move the heat away from your CPU.

Last, if you plan on using the computer for AH or some other graphic intence game, I'd look into getting a bigger power supply.

[Irwink!]

Originally posted by Clutz


That being said, if you are referring to my idea of sticking a pipe into the dirt, this device is called a "grounding rod". As far as I know, it is a legitimate way of securing a ground if done properly (I don't know about building codes or anything like that). I know this: I asked my father years ago, an electrical engineer, how grounds were made and he told me they stick a pipe in the dirt and run a wire to it. Obviously, this was a generalization. He also told me that sometimes grounds are made buy connecting to a water pipe.  

I have a house that is 70 years old. It has no grounding in some of its electrical circuitry. I have an old Marshall tube amplifier that desperately needed a ground. It was buzzing and messing up my sound. I drilled a hole threw the wall, stuck a pipe in the ground and ran a wire to it. Problem solved. Obviously, this is not code. It is however a ground. Do not do this at home!

Clutz

I mean no offense, Clutz, but PROPER grounding is one of the most misunderstood concepts for professionals in the electrical field including electrical engineers. I know very well what a ground rod is and have installed many, generally as a single part of a total grounding system. I spent 25 years as a licensed commercial/industrial electrician after serving a 4 year indentured apprenticeship.

What you describe, driving some kind of ground rod, will work but has the very real potential consequence of killing or seriously injuring someone. Electrical services, from the single circuit breaker or fuse panel in your house to a large switchgear(s) in a commercial building or manufacturing plant or what-have-you, are grounded at or near the point of entry from the utility. Its been that way for many years and before the 70 year old house you mentioned. That's why someone gets shocked when they contact energized parts - because somewhere their body is in whole or partial contact with a ground and there is a potential difference between that ground and the electrical supply.  That grounding system is why a circuit breaker trips on short circuit, not an overcurrent condition but an actual short to ground. Its part of how the system works.

Once you drive an additional ground rod you create a second point of ground reference for the electrical service. Fault current occurring nearer the second ground reference than the original service ground reference will travel to that second point of reference into earth ground. From that point it does not stop. It still attempts to reach the first ground reference and does so by traveling through the earth. When people or animals get in proximity of the path of that current through the earth is when the possibility of injury comes into play. Lots of stuff can and then does happen.
That's the part that so few people in the electrical industry itself don't even understand. What you don't know CAN hurt you or others.

I'm not going to go into any further long-winded explanation. Don't take my word for it. Look for yourself. You can start here:

http://www.mikeholt.com/index.php?id=homegeneral

Read and search in the forum. Don't ask any do-it-yourself advice though. If you do you better have your internet tough guy thick skin on. The people there are professionals and they'll help you understand but they will not give you advice on rolling your own electrical installations.

[Clutz]

Originally posted by Irwink!
I mean no offense, Clutz, but PROPER grounding is one of the most misunderstood concepts for professionals in the electrical field including electrical engineers.

Naaaa, No offense taken. Your points are well taken, and are respected by me.  Thank you for jumping in.

Clutz