CH Fighterstick

[Scratchman]

If i keep the X52 throttle thats means ill have 3 usbs i need to attach to my computer that only has 2. Maybe ill put it on one of the hat switchs.....I dont know

If all you have is 2 USB ports, they your best bet if you want JS, Throttle, and Pedals is to use a powered USB hub. Most have no problems using them. And although you can mix and match joysticks, throttles, and pedals, in the long run your best investment IMO is all CH products. I've had the same CH Fighterstick, Pro Pedals, Pro Throttle for over 8 years now. All still work great with the same response, tension, and feel as the day I pulled them from the box. My question is would you rather spend $ 150 for a complete setup that will quit on you in six months, or spend $ 150 per piece that will last you years. With the economy and your own situation to consider, ( which by the way, I know nothing about or is my business), which one for you would be the better value for you? Hope the best of luck, and see you in the skies. 

[ImADot]

Do either of you have a CH joystick?

Look at reply #20 in this thread.  In case you don't feel like scrolling back...Yes, I have the full CH setup (Fighterstick,Throttle and Pedals).

[CRYPTIC]

From homeboys webpage: about those trim wheels,

   
Those Trim Wheels, They Ain't
Those two dials near the gimbals of a CH stick are referred to in CH Products literature as "trim wheels."   That's an unfortunate term because us aviation types can't help but think that means "aircraft trim" and we are tempted to try and use those wheels to trim our airplane.  A better choice of term might be "pot trim wheels" or something like that.  You see, this wheel is physically attached to the axis pot and can be used to center the pot (or equalize the travel of the pot to one side and the other). The problem with trying to use them for aircraft trim is once you've calibrated your stick and then you move one of these trim wheels, you throw off your calibration and it is very difficult to get the pot exactly where it was when you did the calibration.  The precision of these wheels is not that great and just the slightest movement can throw the pot off quite a bit.  It is my opinion that you carefully lock the trim wheels in their detent and never touch them again.
 
In truth, these trim wheels are a bit of a hold-over from the Gameport days where centering the pot was a legitimate issue.  Because of the way USB devices are designed, this is not that much of an issue anymore.  It is very rare that these USB sticks need any sort of pot trimming.
 

[Getback]

From homeboys webpage: about those trim wheels,

   
Those Trim Wheels, They Ain't
Those two dials near the gimbals of a CH stick are referred to in CH Products literature as "trim wheels."   That's an unfortunate term because us aviation types can't help but think that means "aircraft trim" and we are tempted to try and use those wheels to trim our airplane.  A better choice of term might be "pot trim wheels" or something like that.  You see, this wheel is physically attached to the axis pot and can be used to center the pot (or equalize the travel of the pot to one side and the other). The problem with trying to use them for aircraft trim is once you've calibrated your stick and then you move one of these trim wheels, you throw off your calibration and it is very difficult to get the pot exactly where it was when you did the calibration.  The precision of these wheels is not that great and just the slightest movement can throw the pot off quite a bit.  It is my opinion that you carefully lock the trim wheels in their detent and never touch them again.
 
In truth, these trim wheels are a bit of a hold-over from the Gameport days where centering the pot was a legitimate issue.  Because of the way USB devices are designed, this is not that much of an issue anymore.  It is very rare that these USB sticks need any sort of pot trimming.
 

Thank you Cryptic!! I knew I read it somewhere. That was my experience. Once touched, I was back to desktop recalibrating.

And yes, I have the full CH setup.

[JunkyII]

If all you have is 2 USB ports, they your best bet if you want JS, Throttle, and Pedals is to use a powered USB hub. Most have no problems using them. And although you can mix and match joysticks, throttles, and pedals, in the long run your best investment IMO is all CH products. I've had the same CH Fighterstick, Pro Pedals, Pro Throttle for over 8 years now. All still work great with the same response, tension, and feel as the day I pulled them from the box. My question is would you rather spend $ 150 for a complete setup that will quit on you in six months, or spend $ 150 per piece that will last you years. With the economy and your own situation to consider, ( which by the way, I know nothing about or is my business), which one for you would be the better value for you? Hope the best of luck, and see you in the skies. 

Read my sig bud, my business should be an americans business But I wasnt sure to get the throttle just yet, i would like to see how the X52 throttle works with my other things before i get it. I am very happpy with my pedals, they dont lose calibration and make this game almost new to me again.

[usvi]

CC 

[Vudak]

Read my sig bud, my business should be an americans business But I wasnt sure to get the throttle just yet, i would like to see how the X52 throttle works with my other things before i get it. I am very happpy with my pedals, they dont lose calibration and make this game almost new to me again.

Some people prefer the Saitek throttles.  The CH one takes some getting used to (no real resistance comparatively).  I would lose power now and then by accident with it

(This might have already been posted, too lazy to look )

[Ghastly]

Once touched, I was back to desktop recalibrating.

Exactly. Center them, tape them down, calibrate the stick, and never touch them again.  Or do like I did, when I dismantled the stick to remove the slack from the gimbal, I added an additional friction mechanism (ie. more tape inside the unit) so that I can still move them, but only with serious effort.

<S>

[Getback]

Exactly. Center them, tape them down, calibrate the stick, and never touch them again.  Or do like I did, when I dismantled the stick to remove the slack from the gimbal, I added an additional friction mechanism (ie. more tape inside the unit) so that I can still move them, but only with serious effort.

<S>

  Friction mechanism. Yeppers, you are spot on.

[Bruv119]

awwww crap might have to actually watch out for junky now    .

No going back!   once your in the "CH fanboi Club"  theres no leaving. 

Had the full set for 2 years or so now and still performing as flawless as the day I bought them.  A little sad that i spend less and less time flying with them but they allow finer control and you wont be able to blame your controls for getting shot down or augering in style.

[JunkyII]

awwww crap might have to actually watch out for junky now    .

No going back!   once your in the "CH fanboi Club"  theres no leaving. 

Had the full set for 2 years or so now and still performing as flawless as the day I bought them.  A little sad that i spend less and less time flying with them but they allow finer control and you wont be able to blame your controls for getting shot down or augering in style.

Been blaming my X52 for some time now, hehe check the sig

[Ex-jazz]

I just love my stand-alone Saitek X35T usb throttle right next of my CHFS