Ain't nothin like a Jeep

[Widewing]

Wheel spacers, Ooooh!   I've never used those on a 4x4 or a street driver.. Only on sandrail or quad..  Those things always worry me, never had a good experience with them.. HATE whenever a customers vehicle has had them installed, UGH!   Those do look like nicely made units, hopefully the hardware is top quality as well... I suppose they would be a good stopgap, allowing you to get the bigger tires on.. But I'd be seriously looking for a set of wheels with the proper offset, to get rid of those ASAP... Besides, with tires already mounted on correct wheels, simplifies the changover with the seasons..

  RC

Yeah, some folks get nervous when they hear "wheel spacers". However, Spidertrax and Teraflex both make superior spacers, considerably stronger than the wheel itself. I know guys who run spacers with 35" tires and really pound their rigs. None have had any failures. However, you have to install them correctly, Loctite the studs, torque them carefully. These use Grade 8, U.S. made Stainless Steel hardware. The spacers are centric, aligning to the hub with great accuracy than the wheels will. When you run spacers, you should always re-torque the lug nuts every time you rotate the tires. In my case, that's every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Also, don't let a mechanic tighten the wheels using an impact wrench. Be a pain in the neck and insist they use a torque wrench. Since I rotate them in my driveway, that's a problem I don't have to deal with.


My regards,

Widewing

[RipChord929]

Wait a sec, Grade 8/Stainless steel?  Two different animals there ya know... What always worries me, is the seating process of the alloy to the hub... They are never completely seated until they have gone thru several heating/cooling, retorque cycles.. Adapters just add another joint to seat, doubles the effort required to do it right, so they don't wiggle loose or snap studs..
Seen both happen!  Thats why I hate the Darn things!

Like Mash said, be safe...

  RC

[RipChord929]

My Jeep
http://www.mediafire.com/i/?ni22z2t2yle

Nice rig BowHTR,   bet ya get plenty of floatation with those tires..

RC

[RichardDarkwood]

I went to the title department today to change my Jeep title into my name for the purpose of getting plates.

The cougar who helped me came back with two documents saying that my VIN# matched four other stolen part numbers in the systems.

So I go to the sheriff's department to get that cleared up. An hour later I had my title and plates in hand but man what a morning!!!






Todd

[BowHTR]

Nice rig BowHTR,   bet ya get plenty of floatation with those tires..

RC

youd be surprised. they weigh about 65lbs each. Their 34x15.5 Super Swampers

[Widewing]

Wait a sec, Grade 8/Stainless steel?  Two different animals there ya know... What always worries me, is the seating process of the alloy to the hub... They are never completely seated until they have gone thru several heating/cooling, retorque cycles.. Adapters just add another joint to seat, doubles the effort required to do it right, so they don't wiggle loose or snap studs..
Seen both happen!  Thats why I hate the Darn things!

Like Mash said, be safe...

  RC

Google Grade 8 Stainless Steel.

Grade 8 Stainless Steel, specifically, ASTM A320 (AISI 321), grade B8T. 125,000 PSI rated. You won't find stronger studs... The factory studs are rated at only 100,000 PSI. Thus, not only is the 6061-T6 spacer (machined from x-ray'd billets) far stronger than the spun aluminum wheel, the studs are stronger as well.

These are not Pep Boys spacers, these are heavily used in off road racing and are a favorite of rock crawlers running 37 and 40 inch tires. Hell, MOPAR sells Spidertrax spacers thru their dealers. These are the best, of vastly greater strength than the wheels bolted to them. Moreover, I will install them using Loctite 271 on the studs. Believe me, these will not loosen up.


My regards,

Widewing

[RipChord929]

Pep Boys, lol!  I've been a ARP customer for 20yrs.. Rod bolts, main studs, rocker studs, and have their lug studs in my Renegade right now.. Moser and Strange make lugstuds of the same caliber, the best... Only about $12 per wheel, great investment!  I have seen some primo parts packaged with counterfeit fasteners tho, thats why I said be carefull.. Sometimes the manufacturers don't even know that their fasteners are bogus.. Just that they are the best price, and keep the overhead down.. After all, they have the right markings.. You or I cant tell either! Keep a sharp eye!  Those wheel spacers are nothing to dink around with, but your no youngster, I'm sure you know that..  Counterfeit bolts, LOL, sounds silly huh?  Be carefull, because they ARE out there!

Yes I looked at the engineering materials charts again, just to make sure of my own memory..  "grade 8" is medium carbon alloy steel, quenched and tempered, 150,000lb max tensile. 120,000lb yield, 120,000 test(zero deformation).. "AISI 321 grade B8T" is Nickel Chrome Stainless instead of carbon steel, 100.000lb max tensile, 100,000lb yield, and the charts dont give a zero deformation test rating... Interesting stuff, both are tuff enuff, but the stainless doesn't seem to have the same give before it snaps..
Checked 4 diff charts for sources.. Just wanted to make sure the #s are consistant..

No insult is intended wide, just being the sage word of caution from experience
  RC
 

[RichardDarkwood]

Took the top off today for 70 degree's of clear blue sky.











Todd

[Masherbrum]

Yeah, some folks get nervous when they hear "wheel spacers". However, Spidertrax and Teraflex both make superior spacers, considerably stronger than the wheel itself. I know guys who run spacers with 35" tires and really pound their rigs. None have had any failures. However, you have to install them correctly, Loctite the studs, torque them carefully. These use Grade 8, U.S. made Stainless Steel hardware. The spacers are centric, aligning to the hub with great accuracy than the wheels will. When you run spacers, you should always re-torque the lug nuts every time you rotate the tires. In my case, that's every 3,000 to 4,000 miles. Also, don't let a mechanic tighten the wheels using an impact wrench. Be a pain in the neck and insist they use a torque wrench. Since I rotate them in my driveway, that's a problem I don't have to deal with.


My regards,

Widewing

Just for the record, my buddy had Teraflex Wheel Spacers when his wheel came off.   

[RichardDarkwood]

Just for the record, my buddy had Teraflex Wheel Spacers when his wheel came off.   

Did he have a torque wrench too?







Todd

[Masherbrum]

Did he have a torque wrench too?

Todd

Yes.   My point is that Loctite is NOT the solution.   The proper wheel backspacing IS.   If something is "rubbing", your vehicle needs more height or a narrower tire.   But I realize I'm a "novice".

[rstel01]

These are what I ordered. Very stout. You torque the lug nuts as if you were installing the wheel, then install the wheel. 85 to 110 Lb/Ft, with a torque wrench. I'll retorque them after about 1,000 miles.
(Image removed from quote.)
My regards,
Widewing

Spidertrax makes a great spacer. Same one I have been running on my JK for well over a year with zero issues. It's the only way I can run the Kevlar MT/R (34) which works best for me



 

[Widewing]

Yes.   My point is that Loctite is NOT the solution.   The proper wheel backspacing IS.   If something is "rubbing", your vehicle needs more height or a narrower tire.   But I realize I'm a "novice".

Loctite is essential, and 271 is extremely strong. Indeed, for many aircraft applications, using threadlocker compounds is required by the specification.

I've spent a little time on the phone talking with an engineer at one of the spacer manufacturer's. Failure of the hardware was virtually nonexistent. Failure to install properly and maintain properly were the primary cause of trouble. Lesser factors included wheel failure, hub failure and the like. Those experiencing trouble constituted less than .02% of the total number sold.


My regards,

Widewing

[68ZooM]

Couldn't you go with a different wheel offest to eliminate the need of a spacer??  just asking cause Ive never used spacers on my 53 willy's wagon and was running 32's on it in the 80's

[Masherbrum]

Zoom, the RIGHT way is to indeed use a wheel with the proper backspacing.  My buddy rotated his tires after every oil change.  He used to run 16" moab canyons on his TJ's.  It only took that one time to show anyone why a $100 set of spacers should be avoided.