X45?

[klem]

I was down an Saitek last week picking up an X45 as warranty replacement for my 7 month old X36 which developed 15-20mm slack in the pitch axis. I have to say these are generally good value for the money giving about the same functionality as CH/TM Cougar for less than half the price so ref the reliability, maybe you just get what you pay for.

I agree the slightly sticky feel and its a bit 'heavier' than the X36. Makes it feel like you have the weight of the plane under your hand.

HOWEVER, I have a problem with my USB X45/Analogue pedals which ran fine before with X36. Here's my post from another thread. Can anyone help me?

I can't seem to get the rudder rocker to work in banded mode with my analogue rudder pedals interfaced through Ron Hunt's X36 pedals utility.

I set up the rocker bands ok in SGE. Then I go through the Unplug X45/NukeUSB/Clickit and install the analogue rudders as stick #2 having amended the .inf file to use Rons little utility (not as complex as it sounds to those who wonder what the hell I am talking about), all the usual stuff without problem and the rudder works ok in the Windows Game Controllers applet, feeding into the X45 setup. This should leave the rocker just operating the banded commands.

BUT in SGE instead of the rocker continuing to operate the banded key commands, which it did with the X36, the Rudder now operates the commands ! Very confusing and I've had to scrub the band commands for now.

So, does anyone know how I keep the X45 rocker operating the band commands with the rudder installed?

Would appreciate any help - e-mail if preferred is klem@ntlworld.com

Apologies for the long post.

klem

[1776]

http://www.simhq.com/simhq3/sims/boards/bbs/Forum79/HTML/000005.html

Don't know if this will help, but you could post your question on this board and Ron could supply the answer.

Good luck

[klem]

ty 1776 I have signed up to the web page.

I couldn't find Ron after he closed his old saitekhelp page

klem

[SC-Mutt]

Originally posted by Apar:
I have the X36 and my HAT 1 is starting to wear out, I'm very interested to hear Reaper's suggestion on solving this prob.
I'm currently thinking of exchanging HAT 1 interior with HAT 2 interior (requires some soldering on printed circuit).

Hiyas!
I know what you mean about the HAT1, (also the throttle to js cable).  However, I think I've got a better way to repair the HAT1.

The way I did mine still requires soldering, But only half as much, and you get to keep the #2POV intact.

It sounds like you're a "Bastard-Master" like I am, So you'll start by gathering 'materiel' using standard digital salvage techniques. (ie: Look thru the pile of VCR's, CD Players, ROM's etc. in that 'Special Corner' of the garage).

You'll be retrieving four [4], Mark 1A, Rubberized detent, Micro switches. (Since you've had your stick open, You'll know that they are the most common type, and size, button used in the past 20 years). They are a 4 point switch, (All are N.O.), And in the x36 two points are cut off, two go to the board. It doesn't matter which two.

Be sure and clean the contact pins, and the holes on the x36 PCB, of excess solder so you can get it all the way seated into the board before soldering it.  And don't forget to hold the replacement up to your ear, press the button a few times, while listening for a healthy 'click'. (The weaker it sounds, The sooner it fails!).

Good luck Jim!
(And remember, Should your missus spot you creating a "..Bigger pile than you already started",  We don't know you! Never heard of you! And you can't prove we said anything!!)

[LOL! Good luck!]

S!