Author Topic: bad inner tie rod  (Read 1793 times)

Offline Widewing

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8801
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #60 on: March 14, 2011, 10:27:48 PM »
I bring my Jeep to the dealer for routine service, as they gave me 3 years of free oil changes. This expires in August, but I'll take advantage of it till then.

Last year, one of the service writers says to me, "we recommend changing rear axle oil at 12,000 miles."

"Are you guys tossing that in with the oil change?"

"No", he said. "This isn't related to he oil change."

"Why not?", I reply, "It's an oil change for the differential".

"It is, but that's not part of your service deal."

"Then why change it at 12,000 miles?"

"Because the oil breaks down over time", was his answer.

Shaking my head, I responded... "No it doesn't, not under normal use. That's a synthetic oil, and there isn't enough heat to break down that oil. Furthermore, Jeep recommends changing axle oil at 24k, 18k for severe off road use, and that's just to flush out fine metallic particulates than can accelerate wear. It has nothing to do with break down of the oil."

"It's just our recommendation..."

"Thanks, but I'll stick to the factory schedule."

Last week I was back for service and a different service writer says, "We recommend flushing the transmission fluid at 24,000 miles."

"You mean, drain and refill, right?"

"Correct."

Seeing yet another attempt to pad their income, I ask a simple question.. "Why?"

"The fluid breaks down from heat over time."

"I see..", I reply. "Then why does Jeep recommend the first change of the ATF at 60,000 miles?"

"Well", says the service geek, "that's the maximum mileage."

"But, 24,000 isn't even half way to that. Why would I want to change the fluid when the fluid isn't burnt, the tranny isn't slipping and my warranty requirement is 60K?

"That will minimize your risk."

Amazed still, I answer.. "I don't have any risk whatsoever. I have a lifetime, bumper to bumper warranty. All I have to do is follow the factory maintenance schedule to maintain it. So, I'll be passing on unneeded maintenance."

While it was in for service, I asked that the tech check the rear brake pads... They wear faster in the rear due to the Traction Control system and ESP and were getting close to worn out when I inspected them not more than two weeks prior. While the rear wheels were off, it was about the right mileage to rotate the tires. These monsters weigh 101 lb each, so it's much less back strain for the tech to do it than in my driveway. I specifically asked that they hand torque the lugs to 95 lb/ft. No air wrench please, I don't need my wheels cracked or studs on my spacers stretched. I told him it was okay to remove the lugs with the air wrench, but not to re-tighten them. "Torque wrench please, I know your guys have one back there somewhere. I have a calibrated 0-200 wrench in my tool bag, under the rear floor if they want to use it". The writer just gives me a look... "No air wrench... I'll be watching".

Well, about an hour later the service writer finds me standing at the window overlooking the shop, doing as I stated, watching. "Those pads are just about gone. Almost metal on metal. You'll need the rotors cut and new pads."

"They're not that bad, I measured about 1/8" remaining about two weeks ago. But, go ahead and replace them. However, do not cut the rotors. They are not warped and cutting them is a good way to lead to warping when they get hot."

He just looks at me, and says, "we recommend resurfacing the rotors."

"Why?"

"The pads won't match the surface and they will squeal."

"Nonsense. Bedded properly, they will not squeal at all. Besides, I don't want you to use the crap factory pads. I want you to install EBC Green Stuff 6000 series pads. They have a coating that will deglaze the rotor and are self bedding. The only consequence is a greater volume of pad dust until they fully bed."

Again, he just looks at me... "We don't stock those pads, only factory pads."

Now I'm getting annoyed at the never ending obtuse mindset.

"Pep Boys down the street stocks them. I know, because I was originally planning to change them myself."

"We don't buy from Pep Boys", was the lame reply...

"Not a problem." Within 30 seconds I'm talking to my daughter's friend Jay, manager of the local Pep Boys. I give a brief list of stuff I was going to buy anyway, as well as the pads. I ask if Jay could have everything delivered to the dealer's service door as my Jeep is on the lift. "Sure, no sweat". I give Jay my credit card info and 10 minutes later I hand the service dork the box of pads.. Free delivery and the discount.

About 15 minutes go by and the service manager comes out. "Mr. Jordan, you realize that we can't warranty those pads, since they're not a factory Jeep part."

"Since when do you guys ever warranty brake pads? Besides, EBC guarantees the pads."

He was just annoyed that I was unwilling to pay a huge mark-up on garbage brake pads and was limiting them to only the labor rate. The high end EBC pads were less expensive than the junk factory binders.

Needless to say, there are times when I wonder if the lifetime warranty is a fair trade for having to cope with the knuckleheads at the dealer.

I left the dealer after nearly three hours of legalized torture. I had two more stops to make. The last stop was to hand Jay a cold six pack of his favorite brew, Blue Moon Belgian White... A thank you for his kindness.


(edit for typo)



« Last Edit: March 14, 2011, 10:32:37 PM by Widewing »
My regards,

Widewing

YGBSM. Retired Member of Aces High Trainer Corps, Past President of the DFC, retired from flying as Tredlite.

Offline gyrene81

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 11629
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #61 on: March 14, 2011, 10:34:07 PM »
 :rofl  widewing...pays to know what you're dealing with don't it? and to think the average owner would have left with a huge repair bill without understanding how it happened.
jarhed  
Build a man a fire and he'll be warm for a day...
Set a man on fire and he'll be warm for the rest of his life. - Terry Pratchett

Offline CAP1

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 22287
      • The Axis Vs Allies Arena
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #62 on: March 14, 2011, 10:45:00 PM »
12k miles? do those clowns realize there's people out there with over 200k on their diff. oil?
 as for the tranny fluid....i think your car takes atf+4? that's fully synthetic. should be fine for quite awhile.

the rest of the stuff? i don't think i'd have had the patience you showed. i'd have let him know directly that i know at least what he knows(most likely more), so he'd not try to screw with me.

 i'm gonna try for a 5.0 mustang later this year......so if i can afford it, it'll be going to the dealer for anything under warranty,...........
ingame 1LTCAP
80th FS "Headhunters"
S.A.P.P.- Secret Association Of P-38 Pilots (Lightning in a Bottle)

Offline Widewing

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8801
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #63 on: March 14, 2011, 10:55:39 PM »
12k miles? do those clowns realize there's people out there with over 200k on their diff. oil?
 as for the tranny fluid....i think your car takes atf+4? that's fully synthetic. should be fine for quite awhile.

the rest of the stuff? i don't think i'd have had the patience you showed. i'd have let him know directly that i know at least what he knows(most likely more), so he'd not try to screw with me.

 i'm gonna try for a 5.0 mustang later this year......so if i can afford it, it'll be going to the dealer for anything under warranty,...........

Yep Cap, AFT+4 in the tranny and power steering... Should not require changing for quite some time. Unless you overheat the tranny, something noob Jeepers sometimes do by running high range when they should be in low range. If the tranny idiot light comes on, put it in park and idle it for 10 minutes. Then, change out the fluid when you get a chance. Even the synthetics don't like 260 degrees F for very long. Plus, you risk boiling it out of the breather tube, right on the cat... ATF+4 burns nicely. Best bet for heavy duty use is to install an aftermarket tranny cooler.
My regards,

Widewing

YGBSM. Retired Member of Aces High Trainer Corps, Past President of the DFC, retired from flying as Tredlite.

Offline oakranger

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8380
      • http://www.slybirds.com/
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #64 on: March 14, 2011, 11:12:57 PM »
I bring my Jeep to the dealer for routine service, as they gave me 3 years of free oil changes. This expires in August, but I'll take advantage of it till then.

Last year, one of the service writers says to me, "we recommend changing rear axle oil at 12,000 miles."

"Are you guys tossing that in with the oil change?"

"No", he said. "This isn't related to he oil change."

"Why not?", I reply, "It's an oil change for the differential".

"It is, but that's not part of your service deal."

"Then why change it at 12,000 miles?"

"Because the oil breaks down over time", was his answer.

Shaking my head, I responded... "No it doesn't, not under normal use. That's a synthetic oil, and there isn't enough heat to break down that oil. Furthermore, Jeep recommends changing axle oil at 24k, 18k for severe off road use, and that's just to flush out fine metallic particulates than can accelerate wear. It has nothing to do with break down of the oil."

"It's just our recommendation..."

"Thanks, but I'll stick to the factory schedule."

Last week I was back for service and a different service writer says, "We recommend flushing the transmission fluid at 24,000 miles."

"You mean, drain and refill, right?"

"Correct."

Seeing yet another attempt to pad their income, I ask a simple question.. "Why?"

"The fluid breaks down from heat over time."

"I see..", I reply. "Then why does Jeep recommend the first change of the ATF at 60,000 miles?"

"Well", says the service geek, "that's the maximum mileage."

"But, 24,000 isn't even half way to that. Why would I want to change the fluid when the fluid isn't burnt, the tranny isn't slipping and my warranty requirement is 60K?

"That will minimize your risk."

Amazed still, I answer.. "I don't have any risk whatsoever. I have a lifetime, bumper to bumper warranty. All I have to do is follow the factory maintenance schedule to maintain it. So, I'll be passing on unneeded maintenance."

While it was in for service, I asked that the tech check the rear brake pads... They wear faster in the rear due to the Traction Control system and ESP and were getting close to worn out when I inspected them not more than two weeks prior. While the rear wheels were off, it was about the right mileage to rotate the tires. These monsters weigh 101 lb each, so it's much less back strain for the tech to do it than in my driveway. I specifically asked that they hand torque the lugs to 95 lb/ft. No air wrench please, I don't need my wheels cracked or studs on my spacers stretched. I told him it was okay to remove the lugs with the air wrench, but not to re-tighten them. "Torque wrench please, I know your guys have one back there somewhere. I have a calibrated 0-200 wrench in my tool bag, under the rear floor if they want to use it". The writer just gives me a look... "No air wrench... I'll be watching".

Well, about an hour later the service writer finds me standing at the window overlooking the shop, doing as I stated, watching. "Those pads are just about gone. Almost metal on metal. You'll need the rotors cut and new pads."

"They're not that bad, I measured about 1/8" remaining about two weeks ago. But, go ahead and replace them. However, do not cut the rotors. They are not warped and cutting them is a good way to lead to warping when they get hot."

He just looks at me, and says, "we recommend resurfacing the rotors."

"Why?"

"The pads won't match the surface and they will squeal."

"Nonsense. Bedded properly, they will not squeal at all. Besides, I don't want you to use the crap factory pads. I want you to install EBC Green Stuff 6000 series pads. They have a coating that will deglaze the rotor and are self bedding. The only consequence is a greater volume of pad dust until they fully bed."

Again, he just looks at me... "We don't stock those pads, only factory pads."

Now I'm getting annoyed at the never ending obtuse mindset.

"Pep Boys down the street stocks them. I know, because I was originally planning to change them myself."

"We don't buy from Pep Boys", was the lame reply...

"Not a problem." Within 30 seconds I'm talking to my daughter's friend Jay, manager of the local Pep Boys. I give a brief list of stuff I was going to buy anyway, as well as the pads. I ask if Jay could have everything delivered to the dealer's service door as my Jeep is on the lift. "Sure, no sweat". I give Jay my credit card info and 10 minutes later I hand the service dork the box of pads.. Free delivery and the discount.

About 15 minutes go by and the service manager comes out. "Mr. Jordan, you realize that we can't warranty those pads, since they're not a factory Jeep part."

"Since when do you guys ever warranty brake pads? Besides, EBC guarantees the pads."

He was just annoyed that I was unwilling to pay a huge mark-up on garbage brake pads and was limiting them to only the labor rate. The high end EBC pads were less expensive than the junk factory binders.

Needless to say, there are times when I wonder if the lifetime warranty is a fair trade for having to cope with the knuckleheads at the dealer.

I left the dealer after nearly three hours of legalized torture. I had two more stops to make. The last stop was to hand Jay a cold six pack of his favorite brew, Blue Moon Belgian White... A thank you for his kindness.


(edit for typo)





 :rofl , that is great.  Do you know why mechanics work at a dealrship and not have their own shop like CAP1?
Oaktree

56th Fighter group

Offline CAP1

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 22287
      • The Axis Vs Allies Arena
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #65 on: March 14, 2011, 11:19:21 PM »
Yep Cap, AFT+4 in the tranny and power steering... Should not require changing for quite some time. Unless you overheat the tranny, something noob Jeepers sometimes do by running high range when they should be in low range. If the tranny idiot light comes on, put it in park and idle it for 10 minutes. Then, change out the fluid when you get a chance. Even the synthetics don't like 260 degrees F for very long. Plus, you risk boiling it out of the breather tube, right on the cat... ATF+4 burns nicely. Best bet for heavy duty use is to install an aftermarket tranny cooler.

be careful to only use the atf+4 in your steering too. if it's the same as on the town and country minivans, anything else, and it'll start whining as if it's empty.
ingame 1LTCAP
80th FS "Headhunters"
S.A.P.P.- Secret Association Of P-38 Pilots (Lightning in a Bottle)

Offline bmwgs

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 808
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #66 on: March 15, 2011, 07:13:18 AM »

Amazed still, I answer.. "I don't have any risk whatsoever. I have a lifetime, bumper to bumper warranty. All I have to do is follow the factory maintenance schedule to maintain it. So, I'll be passing on unneeded maintenance."



Good story.  

I am curious about one thing, how did you get a "lifetime bumper to bumper warranty"?  Most I have seen is 10 years or 100,000 miles.  Is this the manufacture warranty, or an aftermarket warranty?

The reason I ask is because I drive a vehicle till the wheels fall off.  If Jeep offers a lifetime bumper to bumper warranty, then my next vehicle will be a Jeep.   :D

Fred
« Last Edit: March 15, 2011, 07:16:15 AM by bmwgs »
One of the serious problems in planning the fight against American doctrine, is that the Americans do not read their manuals, nor do they feel any obligation to follow their doctrine... - From a Soviet Junior Lt's Notebook

Offline Widewing

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8801
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #67 on: March 15, 2011, 08:01:33 PM »
Good story.  

I am curious about one thing, how did you get a "lifetime bumper to bumper warranty"?  Most I have seen is 10 years or 100,000 miles.  Is this the manufacture warranty, or an aftermarket warranty?

The reason I ask is because I drive a vehicle till the wheels fall off.  If Jeep offers a lifetime bumper to bumper warranty, then my next vehicle will be a Jeep.   :D

Fred

For 2008 and part of 2009, Chrysler offered a lifetime power train warranty for free. They also offered their maxcare service contract program that extended the warranty to the entire vehicle. However, unlike repairs to the power train, the balance of the vehicle carries a $100 deductible. Asking price for the Maxcare contract was $2000. I negotiated it down to $1600. When one considers that an air conditioning compressor can cost $1100, it was a no brainer for me. The single issue with the lifetime power train warranty is that if the cost of the repair should exceed the value of the vehicle, Chrysler has the option to buy back the car for its value. This makes the warranty questionable for a Dodge Caliber, which depreciates like nuke power stocks. However, the Wrangler holds it value very well, retaining as much as 70% of its sticker price after 5 years.

These days, Chrysler is sorry they ever offered that warranty. The bean counters see nothing but red ink in the future relative to these vehicles. Thus, Chrysler is offering dealers incentives to get these vehicles back in trade (whereupon the warranty is voided). I discovered this when a salesman offered to give me $22,300 for the JK if I traded for a 2010 or a 2011 due in the showrooms almost any day (at that time). Consider that my Jeep was stickered at $26,120 and I negotiated the price down to $22,500 (in August of 2008 when sales were off almost 60%). So, they offered me essentially what I paid for it and it was two years old with 17,000 miles on it. But, I was not interested. That warranty was a huge incentive and I wasn't tossing it out for slightly newer Wrangler.

Today Jeep offers a 3/36 bumper to bumper and 5/100,000 on the power train. You can still buy the maxcare service contract, but the price has gone up.
My regards,

Widewing

YGBSM. Retired Member of Aces High Trainer Corps, Past President of the DFC, retired from flying as Tredlite.

Offline icepac

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7283
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #68 on: March 16, 2011, 10:03:47 AM »
This is nothing compared how creative techs get when raping warranty.

Offline bmwgs

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 808
Re: bad inner tie rod
« Reply #69 on: March 16, 2011, 10:34:27 AM »
For 2008 and part of 2009, Chrysler offered a lifetime power train warranty for free. They also offered their maxcare service contract program that extended the warranty to the entire vehicle. However, unlike repairs to the power train, the balance of the vehicle carries a $100 deductible. Asking price for the Maxcare contract was $2000. I negotiated it down to $1600. When one considers that an air conditioning compressor can cost $1100, it was a no brainer for me. The single issue with the lifetime power train warranty is that if the cost of the repair should exceed the value of the vehicle, Chrysler has the option to buy back the car for its value. This makes the warranty questionable for a Dodge Caliber, which depreciates like nuke power stocks. However, the Wrangler holds it value very well, retaining as much as 70% of its sticker price after 5 years.

These days, Chrysler is sorry they ever offered that warranty. The bean counters see nothing but red ink in the future relative to these vehicles. Thus, Chrysler is offering dealers incentives to get these vehicles back in trade (whereupon the warranty is voided). I discovered this when a salesman offered to give me $22,300 for the JK if I traded for a 2010 or a 2011 due in the showrooms almost any day (at that time). Consider that my Jeep was stickered at $26,120 and I negotiated the price down to $22,500 (in August of 2008 when sales were off almost 60%). So, they offered me essentially what I paid for it and it was two years old with 17,000 miles on it. But, I was not interested. That warranty was a huge incentive and I wasn't tossing it out for slightly newer Wrangler.

Today Jeep offers a 3/36 bumper to bumper and 5/100,000 on the power train. You can still buy the maxcare service contract, but the price has gone up.

Thanks for the response.  I'm sorry I missed that deal.  I have never been a fan of Chrysler Products, but had I known about that lifetime warranty, I would have bought one in a second.

Fred
One of the serious problems in planning the fight against American doctrine, is that the Americans do not read their manuals, nor do they feel any obligation to follow their doctrine... - From a Soviet Junior Lt's Notebook