Man Caves

[Belial]

That is what I thought when I was putting my mill together.  I am so happy with the zero stop, I am going to incorporate it into the other two axises.

The other nice thing about the stop switch is it stops the computer as well so I see the line of code that caused the problem.  I used to have to search through it, unless I was watching it when it happened.

I can pretty much walk away when i am proofing now.  No more damaged bits (or worse) and if it stops, I know exactly what caused it.  WOOHOO!

Hmm is this zero stop something you rigged or factory?

[Rash]

Work in progress.


Rash

[Buzzard7]

Izzat carpeting I see there?

Got no garage. The house is actually in my avatar. It's the thing behind the big white tow vehicle.

No overkill on that tow vehicle. Finally someone who can actually pull a hill with their camper.

[Tupac]

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

Work in progress.


Rash

I hope one day to have a mancave 1/2 as glorious as this.

[Skuzzy]

Hmm is this zero stop something you rigged or factory?

I added it.  My mill is a full blown homegrown rig.  I started with a little Taig mill, then used it to make the parts for the current mill.  I learned a lot from that experience.  Next mill will be able to cut much harder materials, and the one after that will be able to do more and so on.

At the moment I am using Mach3 for the software to drive the mill.

My goal is to be able to cut any machinable steel on a 24" x 18" x 18" table.  At that point I will be able to cut custom wheels from blanks, among other automotive parts.

[VonMessa]

I added it.  My mill is a full blown homegrown rig.  I started with a little Taig mill, then used it to make the parts for the current mill.  I learned a lot from that experience.  Next mill will be able to cut much harder materials, and the one after that will be able to do more and so on.

At the moment I am using Mach3 for the software to drive the mill.

My goal is to be able to cut any machinable steel on a 24" x 18" x 18" table.  At that point I will be able to cut custom wheels from blanks, among other automotive parts.

What issues are you running in to?

Are you stalling when you try to machine harder materials?

That seems to be the main issue with my Smithy.  It is the top Midas model but not a heavy duty machine by any stretch.  It is also belt driven (and requires gear changes to change feed rates)  I should have bit the bullet and bought a Granite series machine which is all gear driven, and quick-change feed rates. 

I've been working with a lot of O-1 tool steel lately and it cuts with no problem as long as I have a good, rigid setup and don't try to make ridiculous hog cuts like one could on a Bridgeport.  I've also machined some A-2 and D-2 as well.  It seems that the worst problem I run into is the the belts slip.

[Skuzzy]

The problem with building your own mill, is when you start with something as tiny as a Taig (200 ounce servos, 1/4 inch chuck, belt drive), the hardest you can cut is 6061 aluminum (and that is making chips no bigger than 1/32 of an inch...can you say sloooooowww).  This is what the head of my current mill is made and I am still belt driven.

I can cut some steels (not tool steel), but it is slow (just like cutting 6061 on the Taig) and I am in that process so I can make the next mill head and it will be able to merrily cut anything I want, in a timely fashion, as I will switch to full gear drive, 1/2" chuck, and better material for gusseting of the frame.

The hardest material I will need to cut is stainless steel and I should be able to cut it like butter with the next mill revamp.

[VonMessa]

The problem with building your own mill, is when you start with something as tiny as a Taig (200 ounce servos, 1/4 inch chuck, belt drive), the hardest you can cut is 6061 aluminum (and that is making chips no bigger than 1/32 of an inch...can you say sloooooowww).  This is what the head of my current mill is made and I am still belt driven.

I can cut some steels (not tool steel), but it is slow (just like cutting 6061 on the Taig) and I am in that process so I can make the next mill head and it will be able to merrily cut anything I want, in a timely fashion, as I will switch to full gear drive, 1/2" chuck, and better material for gusseting of the frame.

The hardest material I will need to cut is stainless steel and I should be able to cut it like butter with the next mill revamp.

 

I don't really cut a lot of tool steel either, but I have been making some dies to make a/c parts for my Bearhawk so I (hopefully) can reduce the build time. 

[Skuzzy]

I noticed you hammering out that one part.  Silly question, but do you anneal those panels before hammering them out?

I do not know if I will get around to pressing out parts in steel.  I need to re-learn how to use my English wheel first.  I used to be a whiz at it, but then had to store it for the last 25 years due to lack of space to use it.

[TheBug]

  I've also machined some A-2 and D-2 as well. 

Try cutting them in a mill hardened to 56-58 Rc, that is a true joy.   

[Belial]

I mostly turn 316 stainless and sometimes steel...stainless you run roughly half the speed of steel or aluminum....  .004 feed at 450 SF/pm for a 23 finish.

I like steel parts though cause you can run a .006 feed and 1200 SF/pm and get the same finish.

I can also take .5" off the O.D. in one pass!  Should hear the chips hammering the door as they come off

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAn0eqRpLF0&feature=related

neat chesspiece^  I couldnt find any haas videos with live tooling but this okuma has a good one.

Live tooling makes life easy..I drill tap contour all without movin to a mill

[Skuzzy]

I look forward to getting those feed rates on any kind of steel.

[moot]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAn0eqRpLF0

Beautiful..

[Belial]

I look forward to getting those feed rates on any kind of steel.

Yea we have a 1970 south bend belt drive....i feel your pain

I go from the CNC over to it for something simple...dial up .020 and stall the belt...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=87y2IXNsStM

Insert drill^ If you've never seen one of these run you will be amazed...we drill 1.25 hole 8" deep in 45 seconds with one of these.
I cringe when I hit start on these bad boys

[VonMessa]

I noticed you hammering out that one part.  Silly question, but do you anneal those panels before hammering them out?

I do not know if I will get around to pressing out parts in steel.  I need to re-learn how to use my English wheel first.  I used to be a whiz at it, but then had to store it for the last 25 years due to lack of space to use it.

No, it's .025" 2024-T3.  It is what the plans call for.  Most of the wing ribs, stiffeners and wing skins are the the same.  The spars will be .032".  The only concession is that I don't have a radius smaller than .125"  or any scratches to prevent cracking.  I then have the option of alodine or epoxy paint.  Although I may gain weight with the paint, this plane has a beastly 1200 lb. useful load.  I haven't tossed out the idea of putting floats on it one day, so I think the epoxy will offer better corrosion resistance

I have a 4' x 25' roll that I started with.  I haven't gone through a lot of it yet, as other projects keep coming up
We are going on vacation in May though and, when we come back, I'm attacking it with a vengeance.

http://www.mykitlog.com/vonmessa