R/C Nitro Car

[F22RaptorDude]

So I know what one I want, Its a RTR Rally car. http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c819-stripered-24ghz.html and i'm getting the starter kit and everything. But I was curious, is there anything I should know about this before I get it? I used to have an Electric truck that did roughly 30 mph and it lasted for around 3-5 years before the battery smoked and melted the battery box. So I have somewhat of some experience with this stuff. and there's a hobbytown a few miles away so I can buy fuel and get it maintained and extra parts.

I would be running it on level and super powdery dirt and on my schools jogging track, so like I said just needing some advice or opinions before I jump in.


Also I don't know what color I want, its red or blue but that's not important at all right now.

[68ZooM]

not a bad little nitro truck, price is good. do some research and see if its upgradeable with tires, shocks, how easy are the parts to get  things like that to help you make an overall decsion. as far as the places you describe where your going to run it sounds fine, they can take some abuse ( jumps and tricks) but get used to how it handles and use some lead weights to equal out the front and rear balance then when you do jump it the truck will jump level and not nose dive or backflip over.

[EskimoJoe]

You want it in red.

[F22RaptorDude]

not a bad little nitro truck, price is good. do some research and see if its upgradeable with tires, shocks, how easy are the parts to get  things like that to help you make an overall decsion. as far as the places you describe where your going to run it sounds fine, they can take some abuse ( jumps and tricks) but get used to how it handles and use some lead weights to equal out the front and rear balance then when you do jump it the truck will jump level and not nose dive or backflip over.

Was intended for more use in road races for my liking. I looked at spare parts and upgrades and all I can find are the extra body's that are just different colors. As far as wheels and such they seem to fit all the 1/10 universally, so i'm guessing the same goes with shocks and other parts, the hobby store in Duluth has a repair station where you can drop off and pick up your nitro cars and they will fix them.

I'll be using this alot in Winter on the schools jogging track and maybe the football field grass, anything I should know about operating it in Winter?

You want it in red.

Yeah I do actually lol

[edog1977]

You will need to break the engine in.  Usually takes several tanks of Nitro.  Follow the manufactures break in instructions.  Do not rush the process or you may shorten the engines life.  Only start tuning the engine after you break it in.

You will probably have to tune the engine every time you run it.  It will take time to learn to dial it in.  Slight changes in humidity and temperature can throw the engine tune off.  I've seen people suggest tuning based on cylinder head temperature, in my opinion this is not the way to do it.  It is a good idea to purchase an infrared thermometer so you can monitor the cylinder head temps and make sure you aren't running hot.

I had a pull start nitro R/C car, never again.  Stater box for the win.

If the truck comes out of the box with the body looking like it does in the pictures, you will want to cut out the front window and an area above and behind the engine.

Looking at the pictures of the truck, the suspension looks very weak.  I bet those a-arms will break if you look at them wrong.  Buy extra parts when you order the truck.  Front and rear a-arms and any other plastic parts that may break frequently.

Remember this thing can top 60 mph.  Make sure you operate it in a safe manner.  If you do decide to purchase it I hope you enjoy it.


 

[F22RaptorDude]

You will need to break the engine in.  Usually takes several tanks of Nitro.  Follow the manufactures break in instructions.  Do not rush the process or you may shorten the engines life.  Only start tuning the engine after you break it in.

You will probably have to tune the engine every time you run it.  It will take time to learn to dial it in.  Slight changes in humidity and temperature can throw the engine tune off.  I've seen people suggest tuning based on cylinder head temperature, in my opinion this is not the way to do it.  It is a good idea to purchase an infrared thermometer so you can monitor the cylinder head temps and make sure you aren't running hot.

I had a pull start nitro R/C car, never again.  Stater box for the win.

If the truck comes out of the box with the body looking like it does in the pictures, you will want to cut out the front window and an area above and behind the engine.

Looking at the pictures of the truck, the suspension looks very weak.  I bet those a-arms will break if you look at them wrong.  Buy extra parts when you order the truck.  Front and rear a-arms and any other plastic parts that may break frequently.

Remember this thing can top 60 mph.  Make sure you operate it in a safe manner.  If you do decide to purchase it I hope you enjoy it.


 

How exactly do you tune an engine? and i'll look into buying extra a-arms and an infrared thermometer.

[VAMPIRE 2?]

I had an rc10-gt , I can say I only enjoyed rc cars/trucks on hard surfaces and sand... the beach was awesome with sand paddle tires! but with all the repairs and wear and tear (mostly transmission and final drive, I even replaces plastic with mettle) I now only enjoy flying rc's . I just posted another threat here in the O'club with on board video of one RC, and I'm currently still working on a Hanger 9 P-51 1.50 scale  80" wingspan.

[F22RaptorDude]

I had an rc10-gt , I can say I only enjoyed rc cars/trucks on hard surfaces and sand... the beach was awesome with sand paddle tires! but with all the repairs and wear and tear (mostly transmission and final drive, I even replaces plastic with mettle) I now only enjoy flying rc's . I just posted another threat here in the O'club with on board video of one RC, and I'm currently still working on a Hanger 9 P-51 1.50 scale  80" wingspan.

I'm just the opposite, converting from flying to driving. I just got tired of flying for some reason, plus I figure (for me personally) Nitro racing has more potential for me.

My grandfather is good with mechanics, he used to work at the hobbytown until the pay wasn't enough. He works on cars all the time, if something happens I can always talk to him about it and get advice or repair, and if all else fails i can just take it to the repair shop.

[VAMPIRE 2?]

very true

[Bronk]

New brushless electrics are the way to go IMO.  Less fuss more fun and crazy fast.

[icepac]

So you use electronics instead of brush and magnet position to tailor the motor's power/speed range as well as power consumption?

[VAMPIRE 2?]

I use nitro because of the MUCH less power\electric usage just refill and keep going and going and going......

[Bronk]

So you use electronics instead of brush and magnet position to tailor the motor's power/speed range as well as power consumption?

Yup efficient and with new lipo packs long run times. No mess to clean just charge and go. Most are as fast or faster than nitro now.

[Bronk]

I use nitro because of the MUCH less power\electric usage just refill and keep going and going and going......

With lipo, 3 pacs you can do the same.


Didn't address the "MUCH less power".

hmmm   
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iUCixIVGagM

 

[F22RaptorDude]

Seems to Mutch hastle to use electric cause the battery poops then you havd to go home and charge, Nitro go much faster and also go faster, and the all out feeling of power can't be matched to a electric