After 10 years. Time for a new Bang for buck system

[streakeagle]

If you have modern flight sims with huge photoreal textures, there is no hard drive large enough. I have DCS World, DCS World beta, P3d with a lot of ORBX upgrades (including the huge Netherlands upgrade), Aerofly FS2 with some ORBX (most notably the huge Netherlands upgrade), FlyInside Flight Simulator, IL-2 Battle Over XXX, etc. A 500 GB SSD plus a conventional 2 TB RAID 1 array were not enough. Adding a 500 GB SSD has allowed me to upgrade a few sims stuck on the much slower RAID array, but I really need a whole lot more SSD space to load and run these sims without long load times and stuttering.

[Bizman]

Thanks for updating my database about massive disk space hogs. 

The reason why I opted for a smaller disk was based on what Drediock wrote:

[snip]---it needs to be replaced. Particularly since HTC upgraded the game beyond my current capabilities.---AH is really the only real game I spend any time on.---

Preparing for other games with vastly different requirements would not produce the best bang for the buck, IMHO, unless there's something untold involved.

Sketching a system is like a puzzle with some invisible pieces. The more the customer tells about his needs and tasks, the better the result.

[Shuffler]

Thanks for updating my database about massive disk space hogs. 

The reason why I opted for a smaller disk was based on what Drediock wrote: Preparing for other games with vastly different requirements would not produce the best bang for the buck, IMHO, unless there's something untold involved.

Sketching a system is like a puzzle with some invisible pieces. The more the customer tells about his needs and tasks, the better the result.

Oh stop with your knowledgeable, well thought out, explanations.

 

[DREDIOCK]

Thanks for the input so far.
As for the OC I figure I'll just got with Windows 10. Might as well get the latest now. Current machine is still running XP. LMAO
I have an unused copy of 7 But Im thinking on using my old rig as a dual boot system. There is some stuff i still want XP on this machine for and I figured If I can set up a dual boot without loosing my existing copy of XP I'd prefer to do that. (I have my reasons)

TQ, naaa Im just going to go all new on the parts. Even the DVD-Rs are showing their age (I added a second one from an old machine)
Intel on the CPU
The rest. Not real particular. just bang for buck. Ive used both ASUS and Gigabyte in the past. Definitely want one with on board sound. I can always add an audio card later
Not real worried about a card reader. This rig doesnt have one and that something I can get later if I have the need

Hard drive. LOL I still have over 300 Gigs on my current one. I have never filled up a hard drive But if more is better and we can squeeze it in. Go for it. Never know. my needs may change
The price point of the one Skuzzy pointed out is less then half of what I paid for the one I got 10 years ago and its got what? 3 times the storage now? LOL I remember a LONG time ago we used to kid with a running joke that the way HD prices per MEG (just to give an idea of exactly HOW long ago) were dropping that one day they would just come inside cereal boxes.

Really what Im looking for is literally the best bang for buck in performance for $1,000 - $1,200 similar in quality to what I built 10 years ago. Most of those parts we considered to be pretty good quality. In a nut shell. The best parts that will work well together to create the highest end machine for the price point.

Oh. We dont have to worry about a mouse or keyboard hehe.

Whats the plus'/ minuses  between the latest Intel chips?
The i9s seem to be a bit on the pricy side
So I guess the question is between the i5's and i7's
I know with my last system I kinda just started with the CPU and built everything around that.


--EDIT--
I really dont care about SSD's one way or the other.

[Bizman]

@Drediock, thanks for the update, knowing your needs better really helps! Between i5 and i7 the i5 should be enough for about any game, i7 would be needed in case you're going to record/stream your gaming and edit the videos heavily in the shortest possible time. I still stand behind my first sketch with the exceptions that the faster yet cheaper Gskill RAM is a good option if you're prepared to manually set the speed in the BIOS, and replacing the GTX 1060 with a GTX 1070 to ensure you can max all the settings even if you change your monitor to one with more speed and/or tighter resolution.

@Shuffler, my explanations are well thought of simply because I have to triple check everything I read to understand what is being asked. I also have to re-read my answers to make sure that they're at least vaguely understandable. Although Google Translator has improved a lot as I noticed while testing the previous sentences I still wouldn't trust it.

[TequilaChaser]

Dred,

So you are saying that you are going to use your copy of Windows 7 OS  on your current existing PC in dual boot mode

and for the new PC build, you will be going with using Windows 10....is this correct?


As for having WindowsXP / Windows 7 ultimate and Windows 8.1 Pro set up in a multi boot setup... Everything works smoothly.....if you try to (or want to) dual boot or multi-boot with adding Windows 10 OS to any or all of the above mentioned Windows versions, be prepared for Windows 10 taking control of all your other Windows OS versions and totally screwing them up....especially by automatically adding KB updates and files that you most likely don't want installed including the telemetry data gathering processes being added to all your different Windows OS versions in your dual/multi-boot setup

I've done been through all of this drivel and it took me 3 to 4 months of cleaning, uninstalling, verifying, etc etc etc...getting my multi-boot setup back to where it was before I had added Windows 10 to the multi-boot setup....

Instead of pulling out 3 hot swap HDD/SSD bays(trays) to disengage the Sata/Power connections and pushing in 2 hot swap HDD/SSD bays(trays) to engage the Sata and power connections...before turning the power on....

I built myself a little side mounted switch box with several toggle switches that with some little splicing and  wiring, I was able to forgo the having to physically disengage/engage the hotswap bays each time I wanted or needed to use a particular OS....now all I have to do is toggle some switches then power up the PC...

Hope this helps


TC

[Bizman]

Hmm... The dual boot idea, or using trays/switches for using a different flavour of Windows when needed makes me think about using the same license code for both since the versions will never be used simultaneously. I can't see a moral issue there, Redmond might but I won't tell them.

[DaddyAce]

I have 2 SSD's in my puter, one with a whole new install, the other with my previous install.  I would run the new system or old one by plugging and unplugging the relevant SSD.  This was some months back and the details are a bit fuzzy now.....    .....My intention was to make moving old stuff to the new drive more relaxing.  It seems one day I must have had both SSD's plugged in and Windows seemingly decided that something was awry and needed fixin....and as I recall a lot of the stuff on the old SSD seemed to disappear, so my sense is caution is advised when trying to run 2 versions of windows on the same puter.

[TequilaChaser]

when you turned it on with them both plugged in/hooked up

which ever way you have your BIOS set to boot which drive or device first started up and screwed up your MBR ( Master Boot Record ), since you did not have it set up in a dual-boot or multi-boot manner.... were both SSDs loaded with the same OS type or was it 2 different OSes ( ie... SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 7   or  SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 8 or 10 )..... I could see why you might have lost or had some corrupted files possibly..

I had 1 PC that had 4 different Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit OS installations on it, and it was setup in Multi-boot so I could choose which particular OS I wanted to use.... back when I had it set up like that, I had each individual OS install set up completely different, for different reasons and for testing purposes...

VM makes things so easy now.....


TC

[Denniss]

AFAIR with Win10 (probably Win8 too) you have to disable fast boot/quickboot or whatever its called so a shut-off is a real shut-off and not a hybrid mode. Otherwise you may get some data losses if dualbooting with another OS

[Bizman]

Disabling fast boot is good practice in any case. However, I'm not 100% positive that doing that would prevent the different Windows versions doing things to each other. Back when Windows 7 was mainstream but XP still had some advantages I made a dual booting system for a customer to help with the migration. Neither had such a feature, yet there was known data loss issues with certain files. Redmond sure hasn't made things easier after that. Not to mention that those settings should be rechecked after every update!

The only fool proof way to prevent different OSes to interfere each other is swapping hard disks. VM is a good alternative but it has some limitations.

[DaddyAce]

...... were both SSDs loaded with the same OS type or was it 2 different OSes ( ie... SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 7   or  SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 8 or 10 ).......

TC, both Win 10; SSD 1 had a clunky version that started as Win 8, and was unstable and no longer updated properly, hence my motivation to do a clean install on a new (and larger) SSD (SSD2).

Somehow, even retired from full time work for 7 years now I still find myself spread thin and short on time, so I was lazy and did not set up any sort of real dual boot system, other than plugging and unplugging the drives and perhaps specifying my primary boot drive in the BIOS.

But to get back to the OP's issue, DREDIOCK, if you are still looking into CPU's you may find this article on Logicalincrements.com helpful: http://www.logicalincrements.com/articles/best-cpu-gaming-pc

[DREDIOCK]

Question.
Since starting with CPU
Other then nearly $100 in price, is the difference significant between the
I5 Intel Core i5-8600K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.6 GHz (4.3 GHz Turbo)
And the
Intel Core i7-8700K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.7 GHz (4.7 GHz Turbo) ?
At least one of the parts I get for this build  is going to be by way of Christmas gift sooo while the prefrence would be to keep the price point the same. for the right part if its worth it I might be able to squeeze just a bit more

Next up. Motherboard and Graphics card

[Bizman]

There's no major difference in performance unless, as told before, you're running other CPU intensive programs in the background while playing or plan to regularly do heavy photo/video editing. In those cases the i7 might be worth the extra money.

For what I've understood about your needs even the i5-8600K is overkill but since its pricing compared to other variations above 3 GHz is very competitive it's the best choice. It's plenty for mostly anything and at least sufficient even to the toughest tasks you might want to try in the future.

Also, should your needs improve to the level that the i5-8600K isn't powerful enough (which I doubt), there's an aftermarket for those. Equally in a few years you can get a second hand i7-8700K for half the price if you really needed the extra power. That's how I upgraded my current rig from e6750 to e8500 for only about €30.

[DREDIOCK]

Just looking at the prices of Video Cards. Yeeeouch! The prices sure have gone up in 10 years LOL. Im guessing still the effect of the bit coin debacle.

Also. Motherboards.
Any otehr suggestions or is that Gigabyte a general consensus?

Here is another build from PC partpicker. Pluses? Minus's?
https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/PRXscf/excellent-intel-gaming-build