Joystick issues

[The Fugitive]

I have the Warthog joystick It has been a great stick for years. Recently I have had a couple of the buttons take an extra hard press to get them to work. Im sure the contact of the button to the actual switch is wearing. I havent taken it apart yet so its only a guess. After some quick searching I havent found any answers yet so I thought I would ask here as I continue to search.

I have the Thrustmaster F-16C Viper Hotas grip.....

Does any one know of a rebuild kit for it?

Does anyone know of a place to get it rebuilt?

Does anyone know of a place that sells parts or old grips?

Does anyone have a grip they are looking to sell?

Are there any other "grips" I can screw onto the warthog base?

Just looking at replacing it is $250. For another $30 I can get a whole new warthog.

Thanks for any help.

[AKIron]

I believe the Virpil sticks will work with Warthog base. They have more buttons though and they won't all work. Could replace with a virpil base later.

If you decide to go that route I can test for ya. I have a Warthog and Virpil Constellation Alpha stick.

[yipi]

U should be able to get the parts from Thrustmaster. Take the stick apart to see what u need

[yipi]

Ebay has the complete stick for 118.00

[Animl-AW]

Could be just dirty from skin oil/sweat and dust.
>IF< thats the case you can use electrical contact cleaner, which comes in a spray can with straw hose. The trick of getting the right cleaner is to make sure it won’t affect plastics. It will dissolve that stuff but make sure it can drain out to carry the debris out.

This is how we cleaned knobs, buttons and faders on analog mixing consoles, for same reason.

Chances are its worn, but worth a try before spending for new.

[nrshida]

Fugi, sometimes the posts on the switches wear down if they are actuated by the moldable part of the stick you actually press on. CH sticks used to do this a lot on the hat switches where the post itself used to wear away. The telltale is traces of fine plastic dust in the neighbourhood. You can sometimes do the baking powder and superglue trick to build the height back up - if you're careful. Alternatively they are usually small membrane pushbuttons which are a standard part (manufactured by someone else). If you can solder or know someone who can it's a pretty straightforward replacement. You can usually find replacements on eBay very cheaply.

If you can post picturs of the internals can better advise.

[The Fugitive]

OK, just as an update.....

I took it all apart, all of the switches are enclosed to a point. The "bad" switch is a barrel shaped switch with a membrane type button under the actuator button. I sprayed everything with a plastic safe contact cleaner and brushed everything out, hoping against hope that the button shaft just had crud built up on it.

After cleaning and reassembling everything worked, but that one button still gives me a "no contact" when pressed sometime. Im guessing the end that pushes the membrane button is worn just enough that it doesn't always make enough contact.

I did finally find a stick handle to replace it for just over $100 (never found the one on Ebay). Once I have the new one Ill start hunting for the switches and replace them all in the old stick. This way Ill have a replacement ready. 

[Eagler]

That's a great price, my replacement warthog grip was over $230 several years ago

Eagler

[The Fugitive]

That's a great price, my replacement warthog grip was over $230 several years ago

Eagler

Yup, I figured if I was going to spend that much I'd look over what sticks are available and start fresh, but I found the replacement grip at a good price and ordered it.

[Molsman]

Easy fix Stop Pulling your stick and buttons together at the same time lol just kidding bud I hope ya get it all worked out n fixed

[Mayhem]

Fugitive,

Considering how bad the Warthog base system can go bad with "sticktion" and Thrustmaster has a new base that is so much better The next time your base/stick goes bad I would consider either replacing the base with the AVA Base and the Viper grip (if needed note: They also have it as a kit with the F15/F18 grip), or take this opportunity to jump ship to a higher end vendor like Winwing, VKB, and/or Virpil VPC.

Some one mentioned putting a virpil grip on a Warhog base, While Thrustmaster grips are fully supported on virpil bases in the firmware the same can not be said about the reverse. I doubt Thrustmaster's software will even acknowledge a virpil grip in the software like Virpil does with Thrustmaster sticks, there are also other considerations like the LEDs on many Virpil grips.

[The Fugitive]

Fugitive,

Considering how bad the Warthog base system can go bad with "sticktion" and Thrustmaster has a new base that is so much better The next time your base/stick goes bad I would consider either replacing the base with the AVA Base and the Viper grip (if needed note: They also have it as a kit with the F15/F18 grip), or take this opportunity to jump ship to a higher end vendor like Winwing, VKB, and/or Virpil VPC.

Some one mentioned putting a virpil grip on a Warhog base, While Thrustmaster grips are fully supported on virpil bases in the firmware the same can not be said about the reverse. I doubt Thrustmaster's software will even acknowledge a virpil grip in the software like Virpil does with Thrustmaster sticks, there are also other considerations like the LEDs on many Virpil grips.

Thanks for the info.

My stick is over 6 years old and Ive never had an issue with "Sticktion". I did change out the spring to a lighter tension one so maybe that has something to do with it. Im sure Ill be able to hunt down to buttons they used as they dont look like anything special.

As for new stuff, this is the only game I play, and it's only for 20-30 hours a tour. Being retire and a cheap SOB I hate spending money on a game. I am actually in the process of building my own rudder pedals. I want a set that isn't too close together, and that I can actuate with my ankles instead of my whole leg. Im thinking that I could be more precise that way, we will see.

[Shuffler]

Thanks for the info.

My stick is over 6 years old and Ive never had an issue with "Sticktion". I did change out the spring to a lighter tension one so maybe that has something to do with it. Im sure Ill be able to hunt down to buttons they used as they dont look like anything special.

As for new stuff, this is the only game I play, and it's only for 20-30 hours a tour. Being retire and a cheap SOB I hate spending money on a game. I am actually in the process of building my own rudder pedals. I want a set that isn't too close together, and that I can actuate with my ankles instead of my whole leg. Im thinking that I could be more precise that way, we will see.

Are we going to be lasering more parts?   

[The Fugitive]

Are we going to be lasering more parts?   

LOL!!! I hope not,  I know your generosity is already top notch, but would not want to push my luck. Im already on a third redesign, and the prototype will first be made out of wood. Once I have the bugs worked out then in come the parts you so generously sent. Thanks again!

[Eagler]

I have a pair of ch pro peds that work but need to be disassembled then reassembled to correct the slide action as they are sticking now...

it is an easy fix as the peds don't have any broken parts they just need some tlc and patience to assemble them properly..

...or you can use them for spare parts..I replaced them with a different manufacturer

just pay shipping and they are yours if you want them..goes for anyone who might want them

thanks

Eagler