Author Topic: It's DONE!!!!  (Read 1624 times)

Offline BUG_EAF322

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It's DONE!!!!
« Reply #15 on: July 02, 2003, 03:44:00 PM »
Make some holes in it

it would look more realistic :)

Offline SaburoS

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« Reply #16 on: July 03, 2003, 01:07:37 AM »
NICE!!! Thanks for sharing! :)
Men fear thought as they fear nothing else on earth -- more than ruin -- more even than death.... Thought is subversive and revolutionary, destructive and terrible, thought is merciless to privilege, established institutions, and comfortable habit. ... Bertrand Russell

Offline DiabloTX

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« Reply #17 on: July 05, 2003, 04:04:59 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by slimm50
Hey DiabloTX, I work just up the road from you, in Friendswood. How 'bout that.


LOL, I grew up in Freindswood, just on the other side of the creek in Harris county.  Live off of El Dorado now just  east of the Gulf Freeway.
"There ain't no revolution, only evolution, but every time I'm in Denmark I eat a danish for peace." - Diablo

Offline slimm50

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« Reply #18 on: July 07, 2003, 08:28:01 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by DiabloTX
LOL, I grew up in Freindswood, just on the other side of the creek in Harris county.  Live off of El Dorado now just  east of the Gulf Freeway.


DiabloTX...e-mail me at tbmrease@swbell.net, please. Easier to converse that way.

Offline hazed-

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« Reply #19 on: July 11, 2003, 07:35:46 AM »
AKweav how long you been making models? and how old are you?

If you are as old as i am hell maybe i can use YOU as an excuse for ME to start making models and not feel like a weirdo lol :)

Offline MaddogJoe

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« Reply #20 on: July 11, 2003, 03:46:01 PM »
Most of the BEST model makers are over the hill. We have had all that time for practice!!  :D

Offline AKWeav

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« Reply #21 on: July 13, 2003, 10:32:31 AM »
I'm 54:cool:

Offline frank3

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« Reply #22 on: July 13, 2003, 12:22:43 PM »
I've been making them since I was 6

(16 now)

Offline BadRad1

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« Reply #23 on: July 16, 2003, 06:57:33 AM »
AKWeav, Great Job !! Awesome !!
I have a few models that I have yet to start. The only reason I haven't started yet is because I don't know where to start. I want to do a really good job on 'em.

Here's my question, what are the first steps in doing a good model? Do I paint it first and then put it together? or do I put it together and then paint it? I dont have an airbrush yet. What is a reasonable good one , I dont have a whole lot of $$ to spend on an airbrush, so where are some of the good online places to order from?  Maybe some good "How to" books or sites that are airplane specific?  Thanks for any and all the help I can get  to get started.

P.S. I did an F-16 that turned out pretty good for using the Air can method of spraying. (The first Model I have ever painted) I am working on an A-10 right now. I Have a Hog, P-51, BF109G, and a Me 190 yet to be built !

Offline AKWeav

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« Reply #24 on: July 16, 2003, 08:24:04 AM »
Quote
what are the first steps in doing a good model?


Preparation, preparation, preparation:
Grab the instruction sheet and "groke" it real good. Get familiar with the order of assembly. Don't freelance construction, keep the sheet handy during the build processs, and refer to it often.
 
Remove the mold release oils. This will help any paint applied to adhear to the plastic. While the parts are still on the trees, I soak them down with Castrol degreaser, then rinse this off by holding them under hot running water. Set them aside, and let air dry for a day or two.

The next step is to remove all of the major assemblies off the trees, trim any excess sprue material off, and check the fit of the parts. File, sand, trim as needed to achieve as flush a fit as possible (especially where the fuselage, and wing halfs meet).

Use a liquid cement for plastic, and apply it with a small slim paint brush (not the one supplied with the bottle of cement). Don't go over board, a little goes a long ways. ;)

Some areas will need to be painted prior to assemlby (cockpit interiors, wheelwells, etc).

Go to your local Hobby shop, or art supply store and check their line of Badger airbrushes. A good one can be had for around 30 bucks. A good air supply is a little more expensive. I don't like the canned air as it tends to freeze the airbrush with extended use. Practice on scrap parts first until you get the hang of it.

Most important tip: Expect failure! Don't get PO'd (tough to do), but learn from your mistakes. Don't be afraid to experiment with different methods and products.

And watch out for Revell product decals, they tend to distintegrate in water. Some folks say you need to clear coat them with laquer, but I say screw that. Tamiya is my brand of choice. Simple construction, excellent detail, with good fit and finish.

Enjoy! :D

Offline dsrtrat

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« Reply #25 on: July 16, 2003, 08:27:29 AM »
Great Job.

I recently picked up 1:32 scale FW-190 A-8 with a complete engine and open gun bays.

I also picked up a rare Paragon conversion kit for the SpitVIII merlin 66 series.

Offline BadRad1

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« Reply #26 on: July 16, 2003, 08:58:20 AM »
Wow !! Cool AKWeav !! Thanks a Million !! Great starter tips, I can't wait to get started on then now that I know where to start and what to do ! :)

I didn't even know about the mold release oils, I was just wipeing the parts down with Alcohol to remove any finger oils.

I had also never thought about using a small paint brush to apply the cement. I would just try to use the needle like tips that still would put way too much glue on.   Thanks !! :)  (as you can tell, I am just a newbie at this ;) )    

what about air compressers, What is a good one to use? do some "sputter" more than others? As in consistant air flow..?

Offline AKWeav

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« Reply #27 on: July 16, 2003, 09:50:00 AM »
Quote
what about air compressers, What is a good one to use? do some "sputter"


I would recomend one with a storage tank, rather then a "on demand", or constant run w/bypass. A small unit with a 10 or 12 gallon tank would work great (though if you're going to use it for other things such as air tools, you need at least a 60 gallon tank to keep from burning out your compressor).

You'll need a regulator to set output psi, and some kind of inline dryer. I usually paint at 18-20psi. For fine lines, I'll go as low as 8psi. For clear coating, as high as 35psi.

Thinning is important also. Thin your paints to be sprayed to the consistancy of milk. Use a good thinner specifically for airbrushes. Use the cheap stuff for cleaning the airbrush. Clean your airbrush after use, never leave it with paint in the system.

Sputter is usually a combination of improper thinning and air  pressure. Paint builds up in the nozzle of the airbrush, and is blown out when the trigger is pressed. You will get some build-up of paint in the nozzle no matter what you do. When painting, start your stroke away from the part, and end it away from the part. This will give you the most consistant application of paint, and gives the airbrush a chance to blow that gob of paint into the air, vs the surface of your model.  :eek:

It can be quite an investment of money to get good equipment right off the bat, but it's worth it in the long run. Especially if you plan on being involved in the hobby for any lengh of time.