Author Topic: How hotis too hot?? (Read 4101 times)

Roscoroo · « **Reply #15 on:** November 22, 2003, 12:27:25 AM »

either get a program that monitors temp in windows ,
buy a temp gauge set with the probes ,
or just go into the system bios /hardware monitor page.

if you use the bios , its good to get used to checking it once a week or so ... check when the fans are freshly cleaned also , so when you check every week or so if its on the rise that ussually tells ya your fans are getting dirty.

214thCavalier · « **Reply #16 on:** November 22, 2003, 03:30:39 AM »

Read this link it is more relevant to you than anything else anybody has stated here.

It was posted by Abit and directly relates to your combination of motherboard and cpu.

Anybody posting info relating to AMD XP processors has dropped the plot as they are well known for being more susceptible to overheating problems.

Intel have designed the P4 Cpu's to shut down at 134 degrees C now presumably thats because they know up to that point they will survive.

Abit say they are ok up to 75 degs C at full load with your board.

http://forum.abit-usa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11496

Quote

Based on the test in our lab with following conditions, the average CPU temperature in idle state is below 50 degrees C (122 degrees F); meanwhile; it is below 75 degrees C (167 degrees F) while heavy loading. The CPU temperature is affected by room temperature, chassis temperature, CPU fan and other heat source inside the chassis. If the reading is higher than our data, please consider doing some improvement for heat dissipation.

- Room temperature: 25 degrees C (77 degrees F)
- Chassis temperature: 35 degrees C (90 degrees F)
- A good chassis with two 12 CM system fans; one draws air into the chassis and the other exhausts hot air outside the chassis.
- A strong CPU fan

The "CPU Shutdown Temperature" in "PC Health Status" page could be enabled and set to 90 degrees C (194 degrees F). In case there are something wrong with the system like CPU fan stops or drops off from CPU retention unit, the ACPI compatible operation system could shut down itself to prevent the system crash and other damages. But, if the operation system fails to shut down, there still be a final insurance that CPU will turn itself down at 135 degrees C (275 degrees F) and the system will be powered off immediately.

The statement that we draw,
"When the CPU junction temperature reaches approximately 135 degrees Celsius (275 degrees F), the processor will turn down itself. That is, we can say the CPU is quite safe if it is less then 135 degrees Celsius (275 degrees F)." is safe to say according to Intel Spec. sheet.

Now having said all that i changed my intel cooler to a Zalman CU 7000 (Copper) and knocked 10C off my temps, you can get better coolers but the noise emissions climb alarmingly.

I now idle at 43C when previously it was 54C. and thats with 1.65v to the cpu, standard it runs with less than 1.48 volts.
And overclocked from 2.4 to 3.0g

DAVENRINO · « **Reply #17 on:** November 22, 2003, 05:31:04 AM »

MOTHERBOARD MONITOR -
Great free prog. It reads out both Diode (BIOS) and CPU die temps as well as Hard drive and case temp. Also gives fan speeds, voltages, CPU speed and usage. Seems to be quite accurate IMHO. CPU temps match my cheap Comp USA aftermarket temp probes and BIOS. Fan speeds and volts match BIOS.
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/

Replicant · « **Reply #18 on:** November 22, 2003, 05:58:00 AM »

Whitehawk, I had the same temperatures on my XP2800+. I eventually got a Thermalright heatsink and got my CPU temp down from 55 deg C to 40 deg C. Arctic Silver V was used as the mating compound.

I originally tried the extra case cooling but it made hardly any different. Go for the new heatsink!

Check out http://www.thermalright.com/

WhiteHawk · « **Reply #19 on:** November 22, 2003, 06:59:45 PM »

thnx guys. I am idle at 41C. So i guess I am ok. I still need advice on OC'ing tho.
I set my agp/pci to 'fixed' and try to enter in a CPU clock. I can get 210, but anything over that I get serious unstability.
It says 'enter in a DEC number?? Is that got to be dependant on another number.
E.G. if I try 220 It boots but locks up at desktop. The same w 215. Ive read of this setup being overclocked to 3.5. Im just trying for 3.0GHz

(Dont ask me why, this beach screams at regular clock)

Roscoroo · « **Reply #20 on:** November 22, 2003, 07:24:03 PM »

Your gonna be just fine at that temp even under a heavy load and slightly aggresive OC I doubt it will ever get over 50-54 C .

as for over clocking .. it just depends on what you need to do with your pc .. if it runs great and your happy with it then dont mess with it . it will last longer this way .

my work pc I oced because of its program demands .
I play around with a couple of spare pc's ocing them up and down mostly just cause i like to tweek and learn with them .

my gammer and the old ladys pc stay close to where the best performance/stability is .. which is close to stock clocking .

(and yes guys i know the intel cpu's withstand higher temps then the Amd's but why let them run hot when you dont have to )

mold · « **Reply #21 on:** November 22, 2003, 08:29:54 PM »

Whitehawk--

What are your CPU/RAM voltages set at?

BTW, Abit has released a "fix" for that Vdimm bug on the Max3. But it looks like it is still only half a fix. VTT still isn't fixed, looks like.

WhiteHawk · « **Reply #22 on:** November 22, 2003, 08:41:42 PM »

CPU is 1.5V (I think) RAM is 2.8. I know there is a problem with my board at levels over 2.8 so that is where I stay.

mold · « **Reply #23 on:** November 23, 2003, 09:43:32 AM »

I would try upping the CPU voltage a bit. THe max3 seems to undervolt, so setting the voltage to 1.55 or 1.6 may not be a bad idea.

WhiteHawk · « **Reply #24 on:** November 23, 2003, 09:48:09 AM »

ya. I upped it to 1.55 but it still locks up under a load. I will go to 1.6V and see what happns.

I still have my ram set at 2.8. It really screws up at 2.9. The voltage fluctuates between 2.89 and 2.99, and spikes at over 3 which sets of an alarm ibn my hardware doctor. I dont know if this is the defect in the board or something else, but I am forced to keep RAM at 2.8 for now.

210 FSB is all I can squeeze out of this thing right now. I am not sure what the ratio option is for tho. it is set to 1:1.

214thCavalier · « **Reply #25 on:** November 23, 2003, 11:47:07 AM »

GAT settings make sure to set them to

auto
auto
auto
disabled
disabled

CPU generally undervolts for me set at 1.65 i actually get 1.6 to 1.62v

Unless you do that motherboard mod do not use more than 2.8v for the memory.

If your running at 1:1 what memory timing settings are you using ?
You may need to slacken them to get your memory operating higher.

After setting my desired FSB in setup, the lower settings i have set at by SPD and 1:1

Also PC3500 = 217MHz (433MHz effective) you should definitely be able to make 217mhz.

It may be worth while trying the 5:4 memory option as you will be able to keep your memory within operating spec and work the cpu higher.

WhiteHawk · « **Reply #26 on:** November 23, 2003, 01:04:35 PM »

thnx 214. Been at it all morning. Upped my vcore to 2.6V. Then tried for 215FSB. It worked all right, except I was pushing 60C CPU Temp. Now there is some confusion about how my board reads the CPU temp. And it may be OK up to 75C, but jeez, what kinda chance does one take with that.

I really have a hard time trusting the abit techs on their BB, since they seem to be the only ones who believe in the potential of this board.

Also, could you explain 'memory timings. All I have done is set the DDR voltage to 2.8. I dont recall any other options for this, but I have seen number like 2:2:2:1, or something. What are these numbers?

Its strange. people with the same specs as mine claim to be running thier 2.4@3.2 and even higher?? I cant even get my 2.6 to 2.8 without big problems:confused:

But I am new and prolly overlooking something. Anyway, its a good way to spend a rainy Sunday afternoon:)

Roscoroo · « **Reply #27 on:** November 23, 2003, 02:22:25 PM »

those guys up at 3.2 are probly H2O/freon cooled also, an i bet there running a clocking program within windows ...
this gives you an finer and easier adjustment of your settings vs having to enter the bios everytime . ( ive have one of these on my pc at work along with wcpuid ) I just dont remember which one it is at the moment .

214thCavalier · « **Reply #28 on:** November 23, 2003, 02:36:45 PM »

If your memory timings are set at 2:2:2:1 that is your problem right there.

Mushkin PC3500 is rated for 2,3,3,6 for its rated speed.
If you wish to overclock the memory you will almost certainly have to relax those settings, but for starters at least make sure yours do match them.

Cas Latency 2
Ras to Cas delay 3
Ras Precharge 3
Cycle time Tras 6

A typical setting for PC4000 memory is 3,4,4,8 some can do 2.5,3,3,7

Anyway check your timings before you try anything else.

mold · « **Reply #29 on:** November 23, 2003, 04:12:40 PM »

Whitehawk--

The 2:2:2:1 is not your RAM timings. They are not listed that way in your BIOS, and they are an impossible combination anyway. Your RAM timings are listed in another BIOS page (I think it is the third or fourth one down). Set the timings to "By SPD" for now. This is where they are anyway, probably, since that is the default. The "Game Accelerator Technology" settings are on the same page. Set them to Auto, Auto, Auto, Disabled, and Disabled (as previous poster mentions).

First of all, make sure you have a decent heatsink and fan, on the CPU. Second, the 1:1 ratio is the CPU:RAM fsb ratio. You want to keep that at 1:1 for now...once you have found the highest stable clock, then you can try 5:4. The FSB number controls the CPU. So when you change to 5:4, the CPU stays the same speed and the RAM gets slower. You have to push up the FSB by 125% to get the RAM back at your previous speed, and the CPU faster.

The reason you want to try 5:4 at all is because the CPU will probably be able to overclock higher than your memory.