Fiberglass, and it actually got a small crack in it. Do you know if I can use epoxy to fix it?
if it's not too bad you can fix it. use fiberglass resin instead of epoxy. dril out both ends of the crack so it can't 'run' as the boat flexes. if the crack is fairly long drill it in a couple other places. besides 'killing' the crack the holes will also allow resin to flow through and conect the resin on the inside to the resin on the outside, making it much stronger. you see a lot of people who just slap some resin on the outside, without drilling and they hit a small rock and the patch falls off.
Would those make a canoe capable of handling class II rapids?
you should be able to do class 2 in an open canoe, ( in the summer my kids swim down 2's in just a wetsuit and lifejacket) outriggers are a mistake in whitewater.
here is what the river class means-
1. moving water with a few riffles and small waves, few or no obstructions.
2. Easy rapids with waves up to 3 ft, wide clear channles that are obvious without scouting, some manuvering is required.
3. rapids are high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. narrow passages that often require complex maneuvering. may require scouting from shore
4. long difficult rapids with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in very turbulent waters. scouting from shore is often necessary, conditions make rescue difficult. generally not possible in open canoes (except by experts). boaters in in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to eskimo roll.
5. exteamly difficult, long, and very violent rapids with highly congested routes that almost always must be scouted from the shore. rescue conditions are difficult and significant hazard to life in event of a mishap. boaters in in covered canoes and kayaks MUST be able to eskimo roll with confidence.
6. 5's carried to the extream, nearly impossable extreamly dangerous. for teams of experts only, after close study and all precautions taken.
water below 50 deg increases class by one level.
