Used to surf at lefties alot when I stayed in Margeret River, West oz, I used to camp in the car park and go out about 5am to beat the crowds and midday onshores.
Picture it the scene:
perfectly calm smooth water reflecting the rising sun, the boom of the powerful west Oz surf breaking onto a shallow lefthand reef point break.
You sit there waiting for your first wave so very consious of your little toes waggling provocativley in the water.
Then you see the fin......
and you cheese yourself!!!
then another and another and you realise its just dolphins.
this time.....
Always gets my adrenalin pumping
Why I like surfing
Anyway everyone I met there knows its sharky and knows the risks, down a,round Margeret river there aren't any shark nets, its just you, loads of dolphins and big fish with teeth.
Bronze Whaler was my favourite at the fish and chip shop in town always felt better knowing I got them first
They grow to 3m and are very common around the south of oz manly feeding on fish but commonly implicated in attacks.
Theres also white sharks around as well so who gonna be botherd by a little bronzie
the surfer who died
