I'm not sure from your post if you can't read the sticker literally because it's damaged, or because you can't decipher what it means.
If the latter: The wattages are split out on the sticker depending how many amps are available to various "rails" which are simply the various voltages on the different types of connectors. Some connectors supply 12v, some 3.3v, or 5V ect. It should say Peak Load XXX watts on it.
Volts x Amps = Watts. If you multiply the amps times the volts on your sticker for each "rail" you will likey find they don't add up to the rated wattage!
A few rules of thumb
:
Rule#1: You can't believe the "rated" power on most power supplies. There is a reason a "450 watt" supply from one manufacturer costs $24 and from another costs $95.
Rule#2: If you are buying in person, pick up the power supplies and feel the weight. The heavier one will inevitably be higher quality and cost more.
Rule#3: In general generic cases that come with a power supply use inferior PSs. However some cases have excellent PSs, such as Antec.
Rule#4: Buy a quality PS, not a cheapie.
Rule #5: Be sure to check that the PS you are contemplating has enough power on the rails that need it for your intended system. Some MOBOS need more 12V juice than others. Some vid cards and CPUS need more juice on other rails . So take your intended system in total and add up how much juice each compnenet needs on each rail, then find a quality PS that fulfills that need.
And finally, in general you can't go wrong with Antec True Power or Smart Power PS. The True Power is a step up over the Smart Power, but the Smart Power is good too.
