Author Topic: Nuke and other modelers - airbrush questions (Read 734 times)

capt. apathy · « **Reply #15 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:30:33 AM »

I'd go with a cheaper, oil-less design.

this kind is better for tools (that can use the occasional bit of oil that makes it into the air), and it lasts much longer, than the oil-less types.

but they are cheaper and you don't oil them so there's no oil to contaminate your paint

Sixpence · « **Reply #16 on:** March 19, 2005, 03:05:37 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by capt. apathy
I'd go with a cheaper, oil-less design.

this kind is better for tools (that can use the occasional bit of oil that makes it into the air), and it lasts much longer, than the oil-less types.

but they are cheaper and you don't oil them so there's no oil to contaminate your paint

That's the cheapest I found at sears, i'll look around

Sixpence · « **Reply #17 on:** March 19, 2005, 03:13:13 AM »

Ok, this? http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1336659

Found this, but over a hundred bucks http://airbrush-depot.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=compress.bbx

DREDIOCK · « **Reply #18 on:** March 19, 2005, 07:55:06 AM »

Damn,

Been a long long time since I've done any modeling

what ever happened to a good old fashoned can of spray paint and a wad of cotton to do camoflage with?

You guys are out there LOL

airbumba · « **Reply #19 on:** March 19, 2005, 10:39:46 AM »

My bro made one outta a car AC compressor, noisy as heck if on a hard surface tho.

Nuttz, could u please email me your addy, I'm just taking up painting and I'm doing my first one using brush and acrylics. But I'd like to make some cuttouts/stencils, and was wonderin about that tacky see thru stuff they use in airbrushing.

I have a few questions, if you have the time. Thanks .

airbumba@yahoo.ca

Soda · « **Reply #20 on:** March 19, 2005, 12:42:57 PM »

I recently (Xmas) upgraded from a Aztec A380 to an A7778 and really like the new brush. The weight took a bit to get used to but I don't find the tips a problem unless I don't clean them properly after use. Found the weight of the A777 really makes a difference for my accuracy/control, it's less likely to deviate from what I want based on drag from the airline and such.

-Soda

MrCoffee · « **Reply #21 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:06:29 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Sixpence
Would this compressor work? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00915310000&subcat=Portable+Tank+Compressors

yep thats whay Id get, life time warranty and its not to expensive. Also can use that compressor for other tasks. The small and expensive compressors are for indoor use because theyre quite and dont have a pulse signal. If you get an air compressor with a an air tank, you can avoid the air pulse signal. Once the tank is pressurized, then its quite. Average airbrush pressure is about 40-50 psi same as a car tire and get a good water trap.

NUTTZ · « **Reply #22 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:14:18 PM »

Yes, it will work fine

NUTTZ

Quote

Originally posted by Sixpence
Would this compressor work? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00915310000&subcat=Portable+Tank+Compressors

NUTTZ · « **Reply #23 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:18:51 PM »

Sure, Graphixone@verizon.net is my addy.

We used to be called Custom Airbrush for 18 years, 2 locations In philadelphia.

I have MANY copies of airbrush action magazines we used to sell in our stores , so I have multiple copies of older issues In mint condition.

We used Iwata airbrushes the tip can screw off for even finer detail ( but exposes the needle) so be carful when using.

NUTTZ

Quote

Originally posted by airbumba
My bro made one outta a car AC compressor, noisy as heck if on a hard surface tho.

Nuttz, could u please email me your addy, I'm just taking up painting and I'm doing my first one using brush and acrylics. But I'd like to make some cuttouts/stencils, and was wonderin about that tacky see thru stuff they use in airbrushing.

I have a few questions, if you have the time. Thanks .

airbumba@yahoo.ca

NUTTZ · « **Reply #24 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:25:08 PM »

No on both of these. The more expensive piston compressor ( 2nd choice) we call "DOGS" they bounce around ,make alot of noise until they come to the end of their lease( power cord) and unplug themselves. Your air supply is the heart of airbrushing. Overpowering is a good thing. While modeling a hard surface you would expect to have a very low air pressure to eliminate over spray, but we spray with 90 PSI and use less paint and get much finer and detailed results. Of course we are professionals, and have years of experience. It's not at all hard to airbrush, you just need an airbrush your comfortable with and with time you'll get better.
I cannot stress the importance of your power supply, don't go cheap, you can always use it to power air tools for easy home/car repairs.

NUTTZ

Quote

Originally posted by Sixpence
Ok, this? http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1336659

Found this, but over a hundred bucks http://airbrush-depot.com/scripts/depot.exe?pgm=compress.bbx

MrCoffee · « **Reply #25 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:29:17 PM »

you build some nice models nuke. 90 psi seems alot for pressure but then the airbrushes have improved alot.

With my pasche, think the needle would of shot out at 90psi.

wazimada · « **Reply #26 on:** March 19, 2005, 02:54:37 PM »

this is meh airbrush brand for 50 years, superior pruduct and value.

http://www.rainbowten.co.jp/english/gunzeproducts.htm

GRUNHERZ · « **Reply #27 on:** March 19, 2005, 04:00:26 PM »

Iwata Eclipse is a great brush. Definitely get the gravity feed version HP-CS because they are much easier to use and maintain while delivering a finer result due to lower airpressure requirments.

Do get a shop compressor instead of the little hobby shop ones. If the tank is big enough you can go on for a long time, especially since the Iwatas run on so little pressure.

Also remember to get a moisture trap to remove water from the compressed air so it doesnt spoil your finish with water droplets.

My favorite brand of paint are Gunze Sangyo Acrylics and Tamiya acrlyics are second. Thin them 50/50 with cheap 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol and clean your brush with windex and it shpould give you a long time of reliable and cheap use with those thinners/cleaners.

Sixpence · « **Reply #28 on:** March 19, 2005, 04:03:59 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by NUTTZ
Yes, it will work fine

NUTTZ

I also found this one, it says oil free and someone mentioned no oil compressors better? http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00915350000

indy007 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 21, 2005, 08:43:52 AM »

You people make me feel old fashioned. I've painted hundreds of infantry & dozens of tanks for Warhammer 40k (37mm scale), but never used an air brush. Slap on a basecoat of white (since it makes details the most vivid) and do all the blending & feathering by hand.

What do y'all do for your weathering? Best results I ever got were using normally drywall spackle(sp?), mixing in brown paint, and using a toothbrush to splatter it on the tanks & transports. Then highlight with various shades of lighter browns once it dried. Worked really good, but anybody have any other clever techniques?