Flight controllers/Joysticks

[TequilaChaser]

Originally posted by JB73

you can get headphones, but if they are cheap the mic will sound TERRIBLE to others in game.

i suggest a decent "pedastal" mic like this:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6461722&type=product&productCategoryId=cat01056&id=1077628230553


it will give the best sound, and if you need headphones to keep the sound private go to a radio shack and get these:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F007%5F003%5F004%5F000&product%5Fid=33%2D1221

radio shack headphones are actually made by Koss, though "branded" to be generic, they rock, and give MUCH better base response than any headset you will ever find.

I have come to find plantronics headphone/mic combo to be very good, and are not too expensive

http://www.newegg.com/app/viewproductdesc.asp?description=26-106-014&DEPA=0

but everyone has their own view:)

[1Klink]

Radio Shack headphones with mic combo 19.99$

for an extra 5.99$ you get the lifetime warranty

[gofaster]

One problem I had when using a pedastal mic was that it picked up magnetic/electronic interference from my monitor, PC, and television.  

Here's the set I'm using now, and it works just dandy.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00008ZPJQ/qid=1114026010/sr=2-3/ref=pd_bbs_b_2_3/002-0870745-8722449

[JB73]

Originally posted by 1Klink
Radio Shack headphones with mic combo 19.99$

for an extra 5.99$ you get the lifetime warranty

but like i said, that mic sounds like **** to the people you are talking to in game...

every hear one of those super distorted voices in game that sounds like a telephone with a blown speaker? thats from cheap headset mic's (paired with crummy sound card sometimes).

try recording your own voice in windows sound recorder, and see what it's like. is it as smooth as a real persons voice on a CD?

[kraquen]

there are plenty of headset mics that sound good.. i think its easier to get a good sounding headset mic than a pedestal mic because the headset one is much closer to your mouth, and less likely to pick up sounds from your desk/keyboard/room etc..

[bockko]

WELLLL, i have been down the mic road -- here are my learnings:
- headset mics are much more convenient than pedestal
- noise cancelling mics cost a few more $$
- noise cancelling mics have lower signal to noise ratio but tend to pick up less background noise
- el cheapo non-noise cancelling mics give you stronger voice in-game, but also overdrive very easily
- check the signal to noise ratio before you buy -- i buy the cheapies with over 60db -- 46db mics don't have enough umphhh.
-if you get the cheapie with higher db, just make sure to not speak directly into it -- as a previous post said, check your sound in sound recorder.

[DamnedRen]

Fly with the Blackout Boys
"Fly Hard, Turn Hard, Blackout.....

Bockk


hehehe, sounds fun

[Lye-El]

Originally posted by bockko
Switched to saitek x45, very clean. x45's problem was the centering mechanism, which for me caused some issues with small adjustements around centering --

Was it sticky? Mine wants to stick at center. You want to move just a little bit and you have to apply more and more force until it suddenly breaks free at which point you are over corrected.

I have tried putting silicon spray on a Q-tip and wipeing it down but that only seems to last a few minutes and it's back to sticking again. Is there a better lube for plastic?

[GooseAW]

my 2 cents...

Saitek Cyborg EVO is a great value as previously stated.
Adjustable to fit any hand size, twist rudder, large throttle on the base takes a week to adjust to. Extra buttons beside the top hat switch are perfect for flap controls. Expect it to last from 1 to 2 years depending on how much you fly.

Any others you consider try it before you buy it. X45 throttle for example was to big for my hand. Couldn't comfortably reach the rudder rocker with my thumb on the other buttons.

CH is surely the best overall, but I have a large boat payment..

$39.00 at bestbuy.

[humble]

I switched from flying lefty to righty so I could use a HOTAS a couple of years ago....big big difference. I've had a X-36, X-45 and now a X-52...the X-36 didnt really survive the transition...lets simply say after 6 months it was more JB weld than anything else:).

The X-45 went 18 months and I still have it...the main view hat is going and I lose views...so I got a X-52. IMO its a piece of junk compared to the X-45. The twisty stick rudder option in a stick with no resistance is just garbage IMO. So out come the pro pedals again...big issue there is you keep losing them in AH...basically need to plug everything in and configure and calibrate every time you fire up AH....

[DamnedRen]

Originally posted by Lye-El
I have tried putting silicon spray on a Q-tip and wipeing it down but that only seems to last a few minutes and it's back to sticking again. Is there a better lube for plastic?

Alternatively you can "delay" the onset of your stick movement to the control surfaces (elevators and ailerons). There are two additional sliders in settings.

The path in the game is esc/setup/controls/joystick/settings.

When you get there look at the dead band and damping sliders. They serve a couple of purposes. One is used to delay the onset of the pull on the joystick (damping).

The other is used to expand the center of the sticks movement and was used to take out spiking of sticks (dead band). This is the one you may want to try adjusting.

I'll explain:
Dead band "kills" the center area of the stick. This means you can slide the slider up then move the stick a bit before anything moves on the control surfaces (like elevators or ailerons)

Try this move the slider all way up to the top then move the stick. You can move it all around without the plans control surfaces moving. Move the slider back to the bottom.  Now slide it up until you can move the stick past the hang up without control curface movement. You will find you can get past the "bad" spot and still have good use of your stick.

Let me know if you need more info.
 

[kraquen]

you could try white lithium grease..

it stinks.. but i doubt you'd have to use much and the smell goes away

[Eagler]

Originally posted by humble
I switched from flying lefty to righty so I could use a HOTAS a couple of years ago....big big difference. I've had a X-36, X-45 and now a X-52...the X-36 didnt really survive the transition...lets simply say after 6 months it was more JB weld than anything else:).

The X-45 went 18 months and I still have it...the main view hat is going and I lose views...so I got a X-52. IMO its a piece of junk compared to the X-45. The twisty stick rudder option in a stick with no resistance is just garbage IMO. So out come the pro pedals again...big issue there is you keep losing them in AH...basically need to plug everything in and configure and calibrate every time you fire up AH....

humble
with my last upgrade I had an issue with my peds dropping out and having to reset each time I started AH until I replaced my belkin 1.0 usb powered hub (old) with a new USB 2.0 powered hub:
http://www.officedepot.com/ddSKU.do?level=SK&id=657688

and I agree on the X52 - it must be geared towards little girl wrists. I went and found another X45 (circuit city online) after my  experience with X52 from CompUsa

[humble]

Hmmm....

I plug them directly into MB...should be 2.0 drivers but I'll double check. I'm considering going out and getting a 2nd X-45 as well...just hate to leave the X-52 sitting their however....arghhhh:mad:

[Clifra Jones]

Originally posted by Lye-El
Was it sticky? Mine wants to stick at center. You want to move just a little bit and you have to apply more and more force until it suddenly breaks free at which point you are over corrected.

I have tried putting silicon spray on a Q-tip and wipeing it down but that only seems to last a few minutes and it's back to sticking again. Is there a better lube for plastic?

When I had my X45 it was sticky also. The best thing I found to use was graphit. You can get it in a tube, it's like a fine power. Only problem is it can get all lover the stick bottom. It seemed to work the longest and didn't gunk up like other librucants.

This is, IMO the weakest piece of an otherwise fine piece of gear. They tout this center mechanism in thier marketing yet I think it just plain sucks. It sticks, there is a distingtive drop at the center position and it's nearly impossible (at least it was for me) to perform fine movement anywhere near the center position. The "cup" ring that the "saucer" sits in actually sheared off on mine.