Author Topic: Anyone good with cars... (Read 317 times)

Lazerr · « **on:** April 25, 2005, 06:53:29 PM »

Im not about to pay hundreds to get my car hooked up to a machine, and have that tell me whats wrong with it, so hopefully some of you guys know...

I've got a real bad rough idle problem on a 2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac...

I will pull up to a stop light, and hold the brake down (duh)...
Anyways... The car starts to idle really odd, and starts to yank on the brakes, making the car do like a front to back ghetto hop.

It just flat out runs like ****, and when you leave it in park, the idle runs wayy low, and almost appears to be dieing, but hardly stays running.

Anyone know what causes this, and how I can fix it?

(I already tried running a higher octane gas;) )

Shamus · « **Reply #1 on:** April 25, 2005, 07:05:52 PM »

Take it to Auto Zone and get the codes read (free).

Then get a Haynes manual and probably clean the IAC (idle air control) and/or EGR (exhaust gas recirculator) valve.

shamus

Lizking · « **Reply #2 on:** April 25, 2005, 07:06:09 PM »

Simple-It is a sport track-send it to the crusher and all of your problems are solved!

J/K, you have to use the DC to figure out wht is wrong, sorry.

Swoop · « **Reply #3 on:** April 25, 2005, 07:07:50 PM »

Assuming you're driving an automatic.....have the gearbox looked at and yes it's gonna be expensive.

If you're not driving an automatic then either your idle speed is set too low or your clutch isnt disengaging fully. Or both. Easily and cheaply fixed by minor adjustments.

Gunslinger · « **Reply #4 on:** April 25, 2005, 07:12:17 PM »

could also be electrical (IE SENSOR) a bad O2 sensor can cause them symtoms but that will usually cause a Check engine light.

Here's the tricky part. If you have the light and it is the sensor you have to figure out wich one it is because there are FOUR of them on your car.

Cougar68 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 25, 2005, 08:16:28 PM »

Here's what your problem is without a doubt. It's the Idle Air Control Valve. This is a common problem on Explorers. You can either get a can of carb cleaner and clean up yours, or replace it. Replacing it is the way to go, because it will eventually fail again. If you Google idle air control and Explorer you'll find lots of info on the problem. Had to fix this on my sister-in-law's Explorer just a few months back.

Cougar

SFRT - Frenchy · « **Reply #6 on:** April 25, 2005, 10:37:41 PM »

My 2cts:

It is probably your carburetor but check your air cleaner. I had the exact same shyndrome on my company 1985 F250 truck. The air filter was so filthy that the engine couldn't breathe at Idle, but was runing ok when driving.

hyena426 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 25, 2005, 10:58:44 PM »

Quote

Here's what your problem is without a doubt. It's the Idle Air Control Valve. This is a common problem on Explorers.

could be this.and could be vacume leak.. lisin for any whisling sounds coming from the motor...i have a ford wagon every day driver for work,,its a 94 i believe..well it started acting just like yours..there is no idle adjust for them..all in the computer..well anyways..i had the same proublem.... it ran fine down the road..just at stop lights in gear..it would lerch and lerch.making a noise like waaamp waaamp waaamp..and idle so low it would vibrate..till i gave it gas..then it was fine..so check for a vacume leak..sure anuff a vacume hose almost melted off...after i fixed it,,i had no troubles..it ran like a champ<~~before you jump to tranz or anything i would check for a leak...lisin for alot of whisling..i bet thats your proublem..good luck

Quote

It is probably your carburetor but check your air cleaner

i dont think they got carbs on anything that new..lol all computer controlled injection junk..dont even got a idle to mess with..but still has a airbreather you can check..and dont pour any injection cleaner in it,,it will just make it worse..that stuff is a rip off to ruin your injectors...breaks stuff loose and it will plug all your lines..those injector lines are small as a human hair..soon as that injection stuff breaks loose crap ..it will plug it all up to the point that it will cost you a ton to fix.i know lots of local mechanics and they told me to stay away form that stuff...got a all wheel drive subaru with 320,000 miles on it..injectors have never went out in it..been a hell of a good car..but it is on its last leg soon ..i think!!,,lol

crowMAW · « **Reply #8 on:** April 25, 2005, 11:30:42 PM »

Since your car has OBDII...go get the codes read or shell out $50 for a code reader. It should tell you almost exactly what is wrong.

Cobra412 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 26, 2005, 01:03:53 AM »

Lazerr have you seen if you can acces the OBDs codes without taking it to the shop?

I know with my SRT 4 all I have to do is cycle the ignition off and on 3 times within 5 seconds for it to access the OBD II codes. They come up on my odometer. You may be able to do something similiar with your vehicle. This will save you a trip to the dealer.

Once you've gotten your code you can go here to find out what it is calling out.OBD Codes

Edit: BTW I know you can also find out how to put your vehicle into a diagnostics check through Chilton manuals. Atleast that's been the case for the vehicles I've owned. Picking up a Chiltons manual may give you that info for your vehicle. It's not a guarantee but it's always nice to have anyway.

Golfer · « **Reply #10 on:** April 26, 2005, 02:03:18 AM »

I had a problem with my 1994 Grand Am for a while. It would miss and run horribly, quite similar to what's happening with your Ford Exchitter Sporty Digestive Trac. I had a check engine light come on after a few minutes of the car operating. Went to have it tested at Auto Zone. The best part was my OBD-II computer had an OBD-I connecter because Pontiac switched them mid model year I was told for some strange and sadistic reason.

Anyways...$60 later after being referred to a shop with the right eqiupment I had an Oxygen Sensor problem. I walked out to the car, popped the hood and followed the wire from the O2 sensor (only one on the Quad 4 OHC) to the electrical thingamajig. I touched the wire and the thing just broke in my hand. I asked if I could use some electrical tape and tore off about a foot (12 inches) of black tape. Taped up the wires and started it up...ran great with no light. Woo Hoo!!! Too bad that roll of black tape cost $5/inch. It saved me massive headaches though and ended up in a happy ending.

Lazerr · « **Reply #11 on:** April 26, 2005, 06:47:00 AM »

oHhhhh yess... Check engine light has been running strong ever since this problem occured.

duh

Lazerr · « **Reply #12 on:** April 26, 2005, 07:03:46 AM »

Oh ****... I almost forgot.

Last time I took it in to get the tranny fluid changed/flushed out, and it was taking forever to do.

SO this ******* rigs my idle with a screwdriver or something to keep the revs up, which caused more pressure to make the process go faster.

COuld he have messed something up by doing that? The problem started shortly after that trip to the shop.

Cobra412 · « **Reply #13 on:** April 26, 2005, 12:15:52 PM »

Lazzer anythings possible. If it started not long after you took it to the shop I'd take a good look around the engine compartment and underneath near the transmission. I'd also take a look at your transmission fluid level for chits and giggles.

I'll try to do a search again to see how to put your vehicle into a diagnostics check. Mines as easy as cycling the key on my Dodge. With my Nissan all I have to do is adjust set screw on the computer under my seat and watch the lights.

You can also get the OBD reader for your vehicle like the others have suggested. It's a good thing to have if you don't have any other way to access the OBD codes.