First an formost here are a few tricks for setup:
Put the LED emiter 2-3 FEET away from your head. Because of the size of the 'tiad' of reflectors its tracking, if your too close, one of them will get lost pretty quick.
Make sure you wear your hat at the same angle on your head as the vector is above your head. When your centered the angle the hat/brim makes should point at the vector unit.
MY VECTOR PROFILE In general the vector reacts better to looking up than down, this is because although the clip is curved in the horozontal, its not in the verticle (little balls would be so much better...butI digress). I usually set my center a while Im a little crowched in my seat looking just a little down. This gives me an easy up view, and makes over the nose shots (and six views) better.
You'll also notice that in my profile I have huge good size deadzones for more stability in the gunsight...and some of my axis are ver abrupt....its rare I need to lean left or right 'just a little' so they tend to be pretty much all or nothing...giving a nice size deadzone for stability without having to lean too far to take a peak to the side.
Make sure you have a CENTER and a ON/OFF button mapped to your HOTAS, for those occasional times it gets lost and when you dont need the tracking on.
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As a final note, I have modified my vector so the lack of vertical curvature is fixed, so mine get lost much less in the verticle axis. Take some large gauge aquarium tubing, cut it to make a half-pipe, and glue these to the vector clip nodes, being sure to keep some of the horizontal curvature (I find superglue to 'prepare' the tubing and then contact cement for the actual glueing works well). I use some automotive reflection tape to cover these surfaces. It needs to be the high grade stuff....only silver....with the particles very very small not big flecks). You'll need to cut slits in the pieces of this tape you cut about halfway down (5-7 of them) so the tape can follow the double curvature).
