Please help me.....

[Nomak]

My last MS SW FFB2 finally died .  I almost bought a CH set up a few months ago and at the last minute didnt.  Now I dont have the money for a CH set up even if I wanted it.

Plugged in a Saitek cyborg EVO.  My lord.... I am a nOOb again.  Stalls, snap rolls, crappy gunnery.....

I am so use to the FFB shaking at the stall that without it I cant seem to judge the stall at all.

Please someone tell me they have been through this before and that its gonna be ok.  Right now I feel like I will never get use to this dang stick.

Please help.....

Dave

[Furball]

well, it wont let me directly link..

but they have some for sale on ebay in nearly new condition.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5820692923 >

[Nomak]

The one that just died came off e bay.  No more used sticks.  Sooner or later there wont be any left anyway.  Then Ill be in the same boat im in now.  Naaa time to bite the bullet and convert to another stick.

I just want someone to tell me they have been through it to and that it turned out ok.  Will give me some hope lol.

Dave

[Schatzi]

If itll make you feel better: Last week i changed my stick settings, so i wouldnt have to remove my hand off the rudder to look up.... heres the changes:

fire1 ----> lookup
fire2 ----> WEP
WEP ----> fire2
zoom ----> fire1
lookup ----> zoom

Was a wild ride for a week or so. Talk about being confused BIG time.... Even now, in the heat of the fight i might power WEP instead of guns blazing, but hey.... its all fun. LMAO. Youll adapt.



PS: You can use me for target practice tonight....

[Dead Man Flying]

Like anything, you'll have an adjustment period.  That could take as long as a month depending on how different the controller functions compared to your old one.  I suspect after that time, you'll fly as well as you ever did.  If the stick is in some ways better than the old one, you might even improve in some areas.

I know it took Honch about a month to transition from an old Sidewinder Pro to full CH gear.  Those two setups could not be any more different and yet he still figured it out.  So yes, you'll be fine.

-- Todd/Leviathn

[DipStick]

Originally posted by Dead Man Flying
I know it took Honch about a month to transition from an old Sidewinder Pro to full CH gear.  Those two setups could not be any more different and yet he still figured it out.  So yes, you'll be fine.

-- Todd/Leviathn

Same here. Tried several sticks in mid 90's and stuck with MS Sidewinder Pro until about 2 years ago. Then bought all CH-USB  setup. Took a month or better to get used to it. Would never go back now though.

[LTARmedc]

Nomack wrote  

Please help me.....
My last MS SW FFB2 finally died . I almost bought a CH set up a few months ago and at the last minute didnt. Now I dont have the money for a CH set up even if I wanted it.

 Nomack: I Just might be able to help.. or you can help me.. I have a MS FFB2 stick. It is not being used at this time. if you are interested, I am willing to part with it. It is in good conditon, the only hang up is the #8 button is a little sticky and I have seemed to missplaced the power cord for it.  If you are going to stick with your replacement J/S, I am in the market for a new power cord.  .... LTARmedc

email me at: ltarmedc@yahoo.com

[Furball]

Originally posted by LTARmedc
Nomack
 Nomack

hehehe.....

Nosmack

[Morpheus]

If you are going to completely relearn a stick get the CH hotas and do it right. Takes a while to learn but you wont regret it.

[mechanic]

I too have a sidewinder sitting here that uses the old 10pin jack.

I only have USB on my newish PC and so i was forced to buy a saitek cyborg EVO.



It really is a totall load of tripe compared to a sidewinder, and very difficult to learn.



I have found that a calibration each time you log in is a good idea for a start.

Also i would suggest tweaking the sliders and addind a little deadband to the pitch, roll and rudder to stop nose bounce.


I would sugget turning the deadband totaly off on all axis.



you have to be 100% more gentle and smooth now. no sharp movements or pulling the stick right back into your groin to pull up.

good luck, tis stick is terrible at first, and then somehow, after 3 months, very, VERY nice.

[PropSuey]

Mechanic:  I also have the Saitek Cyborg Evo and you're right you do have to calibrate everytime you log in.  I've been using it for almost two years now and it's pretty good but nose bounce is still a problem for me.  
One warning though, the hatswitch gets kind of sketchy after awhile.  I often can't get it to look back so I can see what's on my six.

[Morpheus]

the hatswitch gets kind of sketchy after awhile. I often can't get it to look back so I can see what's on my six.

I had to revert to my backup saiCrap x45 when my CH stick exploded. The hatswitch lasted all of 30 days before it craped out. They're crap and I would never buy a saitek anything ever again.

[2bighorn]

Originally posted by Nomak
I am so use to the FFB shaking at the stall that without it I cant seem to judge the stall at all.

Please someone tell me they have been through this before and that its gonna be ok.

I had the saitek cyborg force feedback. The one without the spring. The biggest adv of FFB was riding the stall, esoecially at very very slow speeds. It was wonderful. Then the FFB motor crapped out and I got saitek x-52.
It took me few months to get halfway where I used to be.
Be ready for some suffering...

[ColKLink]

the stick auto calibrates every time you log in. seitek, far as i know.

[Shane]

what do you mean, died? hat's or trigger?

would this help? for hats...

Microsoft Sidewinder FF Pro Info  (same as MS FFB2)

Hey guys, my Sidewinder Force Feedback Pro gets a real workout when I play AH - especially the hat switches.

Anyway, the switch that selects right view started dying so I toook it apart to see about replacing them.

Here is the information:

The switches used are Omron 150g actuation tactile jobs. They are available from Digi-Key.

The ones for the hat are Digi-Key part number SW408-ND (Omron # B3F3122) and are $0.36 each (4 required).

The switches for the stick buttons other than the trigger are Digi-Key part number SW401-ND (Omron # B3F1002) and are $0.26 each (3 required).

The trigger switch is Digi-Key part number SW426-ND (Omron B3M6009) and are $0.71 each (1 required).

Swapping out the switches is easy and even though I only had one dying, I replaced all of them. The others would also be long in the tooth so I figured get them all while I had it apart.

I guess it has been about two years since new and with optical encoding, I'm expecting it to last a few more years so I bought extras to swap em out next time one decides to go belly-up.

To disassemble the handle to get to the board that the switches mount on, there are the obvious screws on the right side of the handle. The trigger must be removed before splitting the shell - spread it at the top to disengage the pivots. There is a catch at the bottom that will let go once you release the top. Then there are catches that hold the halves of the handle together I guess to make assembly easier. They let go real easy and if one breaks (one of mine did) it's no biggie as there are others and the screws actually hold the halves together.

Once you split it open, you have access to the circuit board. Just desolder carefully and then reinstall the new switches. Be sure to seat them properly down on the board (they have feet to assure the proper setup) then solder them back in.

You need to have a little soldering skill for this but it's no hill for a climber. I saved myself a new stick (about $100) for about $3 worth of switches and a few minutes of my time.

Anyone with dead switches that doesn't feel up to the job, I'll replace them for $25 and you pay all shipping costs. E-mail if interested.