Check engine light woes

[nirvana]

Alright well lucky for me my step dad owns an auto shop, however, that would be a moot point if the frackin check engine light wouldn't keep popping on.  I keep the revs under 4000 95% of the time, and under 5000 100% of the time I drive.  Which leads me to ask, why does theit keep coming on?  Is there something that should be checked out?  I'm a teen driver so you don't expect much, but this is the 3rd time in 3 weeks and it's getting pretty damn old.  '96 Ford Probe by the way.

[Callisto]

when check engine light goes off, best is to take it to the dealer and let them hook it up to  computer and find out what the problem is.

check engine light can come on for many reasons, anythinig from major engine problem to something as simple as replacing the gas cap.
see your local Ford dealer and see what they say.


good luck

[GtoRA2]

96 Ford Probe

I see the problem.


Ford

Just take it to an open field and shoot it. Allot.

[rpm]

Originally posted by Callisto
when check engine light goes off, best is to take it to the dealer and let them hook it up to  computer and find out what the problem is.
See your local Ford dealer and see what they say.

They will say the repair will cost $$$. If your dad is any kind of skilled mechanic at all he will know how to read the codes and diagnose the problem. Most likely it's a sensor going bad. Do not, repeat DO NOT take it to a dealership for service unless you just want to spend 3 times more than you have to.

[Chairboy]

Do not take it to the dealer unless you're a sucker.

Find an Autozone nearby (if you don't have any, call around, other chains might have this too) and ask them to scan the code.  Autozones will do this for free hoping that if the code suggests a part needs to be replaced, that you'll purchase it from them.  Great marketing, and super handy for people in the pickle you're in.

You shouldn't have to worry about the light being on at the time you go to the dealership, the last code is usually stored and can be retrieved.

This all assumes that your car is 1996 or newer, meaning it is equipped with an OBD-II port.  If it's pre 96 but post 80s, it might be EECIV and you'll have to schlump it into the dealer.  If it's pre THAT, then...  drop it off at the Henry Ford museum and get a new car.

[Skilless]

I agree with RPM.  With a car that old (going on 10 years), it could be anything.  But I'd be willing to bet it's the oxygen sensor.  It gets plugged up with carbon in the exhaust and tells the fuel injector to run rich or lean, leading to a host of other problems.  It should be a pretty cheap fix.

[lasersailor184]

Mine was doing the same thing.  So I took it to the dealer and found out that the Catalytic converter was bad.

Fortunately for me, I had the catalytic converter replaced 2 months prior.  The dude pushed a button and it never came back (for that reason).

[Sandman]

Just ignore it. It'll blink when it really means it.

[WhiteHawk]

Somebody told me once about that check engine light.  I cant remember what he said to do but if your car is running ok and the oil is right and the temp is good dont worry about it.  It may be the O2 sensor needs replaced or something needs to be reset.  Check your manual for a resetting of the computer.  I wish I coiuld remeber.    But it is something goofy like that.

[nirvana]

My step dad has scanned it, the first time was over revving and riding the clutch, second time was a sensor, he took out and cleaned it.  We're hoping it's not the sensor because it's........$550:O  We never go to the dealership, my step dad makes a killing on the people who go to him instead of dealerships because his prices are MUCH lower.  



Oh and Gtora, I feel like using it as my shooting car right now, don't tempt me.


Oh on another Probe I worked on this summer there was a metal tab in the engine bay specifically so you couldn't get the engine out.  As my step dad put it, "Just another way Ford tries to **** with you."

[BTW]

Cover it with electical tape.

[Wolf14]

check to make sure your gas cap is screwed on tight. Mine comes on if I dont tighten my gas cap.  After I tighten gas cap lights goes off.

[J_A_B]

Given the poster's age and what can normally be expected from young drivers, I'll let him in on something he may or may not already know:  That Probe isn't fast, even if it's a GT with a 5-speed.   I've driven full-size station wagons that are speedier.


"Check engine light" often means a sensor has gone bad, as others have said.  


J_A_B

[crowMAW]

V6 or 4cyl?  Which sensor was throwing the CEL code?  Was it the mass air flow (MAF) sensor...or your car may have a more simple air flow meter (AFM)?  That's the only sensor I can think of that would be that expensive.  Some sensors, like the AMF or throttle position sensor (TPS) can easily be tested with an ohmmeter...that means you can go to a junkyard and find a used one that is still in working order by testing it with a handheld ohmmeter.  For example my brother pulled a working AFM for his old RX-7 at a junkyard for $35...new would have cost $500+ if a new-old stock unit could even be found.

Your car shares many parts with Mazda vehicles, so depending on the part...several different models will have the same one.  Most junkyards have a cross referrence catalog that will tell you which parts are interchangeable from other models.

[Golfer]

My first car was a 1994 Grand Am which had either an OBD1 Computer with an OBD2 connection or Vis-Versa.  Took it to Auto Zone and the connecter wouldn't work with their hardware so I took it to a shop they referred me to who they knew had it.

$60 later I knew it was the O2 Sensor.  Right there in the snow I popped the hood and found the O2 Sensor, followed the wire to the top of the motor to an accessory bundle and the wire came off in my hand with a slight touch.  I asked for a foot of black electrical tape and fixed it right there by splicing the wire together and taping it up.

The repair was easy it's just too bad that black tape on that day was $5 per inch!

If it's a sensor, go to a salvage yard and yank one out of a similar car.  My hood latch broke and for $2 I got one from a salvage yard that worked just like new.  It's a DIY Market out there...stay away from dealerships.  You'll learn more, spend less and live happier