Author Topic: home interior painting questions. (Read 333 times)

rabbidrabbit · « **on:** November 28, 2005, 04:14:14 PM »

OK,

Major remodel is coming along and the mudding is just about done. The intent is a light texture to match the existing and paint to match as well. The question is what is the correct procedure? Is it prime, texture, prime, paint? Is prime just watered down paint?

Mustaine · « **Reply #1 on:** November 28, 2005, 04:22:01 PM »

interior... you dont really have to prime drywall, only wood and things like that.

at most stores you can have the "texture" mixed in with the paint.

2 coats.

that should be all you need to do.

dogsnot · « **Reply #2 on:** November 28, 2005, 04:46:36 PM »

If you dont prime the drywall you will end up with a splotchy look from where there is more absorbstion on drywall and not as much on mud. You need to prime. You need to texture first then prime then paint. Also recommend a product called Flotrol to put in your paint. It helps to keep at wet edge so that as you paint you wont have lap marks.

Dogsnot

rabbidrabbit · « **Reply #3 on:** November 28, 2005, 05:29:34 PM »

I'm thinking that everything will be sprayed. Any complications?

parker00 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2005, 05:33:30 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by rabbidrabbit
I'm thinking that everything will be sprayed. Any complications?

Not always a good idea to spray the inside as you will end up with overspay unless everything from ceiling to floor is being painted the same color. You should roll the walls and you will need to prime new drywall or like it was said before it will look patchy.

Skuzzy · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2005, 05:34:03 PM »

We just finished our kitchen rabbid. I got a texture sprayer (already had the compressor) from Home Depot and mixed the texture and sprayed it directly on the drywall (ceiling and walls), then primed using Kilz, then painted (rolled).

Turned out really well.

If you like, I will get you more specific information on the model of sprayer and the material used.

rabbidrabbit · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2005, 05:47:23 PM »

Sure would appreciate it Skuzzy and anyone else. Am I correct in that the concensus is it must be primed first, then textured, then primed, then painted?

The area is a little over 2000 sq ft of new drywall and it has to be matched to the old texture and paint.

Any pointers about what product to use over another would also be appreciated.

Parker, the ceiling and walls are the same color and the new vertical bamboo floors have not been installed. The old texture and paint was sprayed so I'm trying to get everything as close as possible and taping off isn't a big deal.

Skuzzy · « **Reply #7 on:** November 28, 2005, 05:50:14 PM »

We did not prime before applying the texture. I have never seen a 'mudder' apply texture over a primed surface, it was always directly on the drywall.

I'll get the info for you tonight.

eskimo2 · « **Reply #8 on:** November 28, 2005, 06:07:36 PM »

What are you hoping that a $50,000 car will do for you beyond what a $20,000 car would do?

Spraying is a lot of work and can be pretty messy. It takes a lot of masking and tarping and paint still goes everywhere. I painted the entire inside of a remodeled house with a sprayer, floor to ceiling, and wondered if rolling would have been faster. I think I used more paint too. Even though I own a sprayer, I don’t think I’d use it inside again unless it was in a room that had no flooring or windows yet.

If you’re using cheep paint, you can just put on a few coats and it will even out. Its kind of a waste to let expensive paint just soak into drywall, only to be painted over again. Prime unless your paint is cheaper than primer.

eskimo

dogsnot · « **Reply #9 on:** November 28, 2005, 07:44:56 PM »

You do not need to prime before the texture step. Homax makes a gun with premixed texture bottles at home depot. The gun is like 50 bucks and the jugs of texture are around ten dollars. I highly recommend this setup. I use it when I have to match existing texture in houses that I am working on. As far a spraying goes, have you done it before, and do you have the equipment? Let me know what type of sprayer, HVLP , airless, or a plain ol wagner and I can give you more specifics

Dogsnot

DREDIOCK · « **Reply #10 on:** November 29, 2005, 08:32:42 AM »

As I've mentioned on a few other threads. I've been doing this for 28..well almost 29 years now (good god thats a long time!)

No need to prime new sheetrock if your applying textured paint with a flat finish.

although there are some specialtiy finishes and textured paints that do require a prime coat (usually with a specific primer)
Typically most textured paints dont "need" a primer though
New Sheetrock only really needs to be primed if you are using anything but a flat paint. (matte,eggshell,Semigloss etc.) basically anything with a sheen.
And then as a primer you can simply used flat paint. Now you can use a primer if you want to. but you dont have to unless you have some sort of waterstains or penmarks you need to cover.

The reason being as mentioned by Dogsnot that the mudded areas where the seams and nails/screws are mudded over absorb more paint then the sheetrock does and you end up with whats in the trade is called "flash" or as DS put it a "splotchy look" if your using anything with a sheen to it.

Mustain is partially correct. but not at all incorrect.
Many of your textured paints you can have tinted to the color you want.
Some arent designed to be tinted but can be if you find a paint store with people experianced enough and know how to tint paint the old way before computer generated formulas. Best rule of thumb. Just look for the old guy LOL.

As for coats. 2 coats isnt always desired. That would depend on the effect you are trying to acheive.
The more coats. the heavier the texture is going to be. the trick to textured paints is applying it so as to acheive a uniform finish. You dont want one area to be more or less textured then another so be careful with your lap marks or you will end up with texure that goes in funny stripes.

Just out of curiousity. exactly what kind of texture is it you are tryng to acheive? There are probably a couple dozen different textures out there

Knowing exactly what it is you want to use would do alot in helping us to help you

rabbidrabbit · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2005, 08:45:42 AM »

Thanks for the help..

I'm trying to match the existing texture which I would describe as a medium wet appearance. It's a basic sprayed on wet bump look but its' not big and splotchy. Basically a uniform appearance of less than 1/32 of an inch, kind of a rough look as opposed to thick and heavy. I'm assuming by what you wrote that the texture essentially acts as a primer since it pretty much is a layer. That help?

Mustaine · « **Reply #12 on:** November 29, 2005, 09:00:54 AM »

actually you all are correct, i forgot about fresh new drywall.. that you have to prime, i was thinking of already painted drywall.

DREDIOCK · « **Reply #13 on:** November 29, 2005, 09:15:38 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by parker00
Not always a good idea to spray the inside as you will end up with overspay unless everything from ceiling to floor is being painted the same color. You should roll the walls and you will need to prime new drywall or like it was said before it will look patchy.

If its a spray type application. (some textures can only be sprayed) and you are doing a large area and have never sprayed before. I'd advise you to leave it to a professional for reasons including what parker said above.

Someone who has "extencive experiance" spraying will do a far better job of it with far less mess and overspray then you or someone who has only sometimes done it can.

Now if all is the same color/and finish a sprayer worth their salt can spray from ceiling to floor trim without blowing paint all over the place. including your windows, window trim, and carpeting. I know I can spray a wall to within about 3-4 inches of the floor without getting a stich of paint on the carpet and within2 inches of window and door trim without getting paint on the trim itself.
But I also spent almost 5 years, year round where 80-90% of what I was doing was spray work.

If your walls are goign to be a different color I would advise not spraying the walls unless you are using some kind of paint sheild to keep the mist off the ceiling. Its just too hard to angle the gun away from the ceiling and still get close enough to just haveto cut in by brush or without laying too much paint on and having it sag.

Again. for me to help you it would be much more helpful if I knew exactly the effect you are trying to acheive, the products your planning on using.

Are the walls going to have a different texture then the ceiling?

What type of texure/s are you going with? there are alot of different types of textures out there, ranging from basic sand texture, to stucco to popcorn to more specialty type products and finishes such as Multispec to The Oikos products such as Venetian Plaster.
Each application method is different.
Are the walls going to be a different color then the ceiling?

you mentioned you are going to be matching an existing texture.
Is this in two different rooms or the same room
etc etc etc
And if the same room
Will you be trying to blend in one area of a wall to another or is there a natural break such as a corner?

DREDIOCK · « **Reply #14 on:** November 29, 2005, 09:19:41 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by dogsnot
You do not need to prime before the texture step. Homax makes a gun with premixed texture bottles at home depot. The gun is like 50 bucks and the jugs of texture are around ten dollars. I highly recommend this setup. I use it when I have to match existing texture in houses that I am working on. As far a spraying goes, have you done it before, and do you have the equipment? Let me know what type of sprayer, HVLP , airless, or a plain ol wagner and I can give you more specifics

Dogsnot

I prefer Greyco or Binks
LOL I hate wagner sprayers.Rarely ever worked with one that didnt give me problems.

but..in a pinch LOL