Author Topic: Ran Amok ,,, made my own peds (Read 2081 times)

Roscoroo · « **on:** January 13, 2006, 11:17:32 AM »

Here ya Go Fuze

I built these totally from scratch .
There just single potitiomiter .. as of now .. but i was wondering if dual pots would give them more percise setting .
they work really well with my panther js .. but they do wander the calibration alittle after many hours of thrashing on them .

Krusty · « **Reply #1 on:** January 13, 2006, 12:27:18 PM »

Too much time on your hands!

Simaril · « **Reply #2 on:** January 13, 2006, 01:17:02 PM »

Need to put your avatar on 'em, and start a business on the side.

Looks like those puppies could hold up to some serious pounding!

Mustaine · « **Reply #3 on:** January 13, 2006, 04:23:35 PM »

freak

fuzeman · « **Reply #4 on:** January 13, 2006, 05:07:19 PM »

Looking good Roo

I'd post a picture of the wooden ones I tried to make but I'd get laughed out of the flight sim community as a whole.
I give you guys enough to laugh about already

meddog · « **Reply #5 on:** January 15, 2006, 08:21:36 PM »

my question is, how do progam them to interface with the game?

Schutt · « **Reply #6 on:** January 16, 2006, 02:20:04 AM »

How did ya bend the aluminium and how did you soldier/weld em?
You have tools on your hand?

B@tfinkV · « **Reply #7 on:** January 16, 2006, 02:41:27 AM »

very cool rosco!

Roscoroo · « **Reply #8 on:** January 17, 2006, 03:20:32 AM »

I killed a saitec st 290 pro .. for the main controller board , 8 way hat , lower buttons . then put all that into a mad catz panther joystick .

the potentiomiters are far superior in the panther so i used those .

for the rudder peds i used a pot from a old tm stick and connected it to the saitec board 's previous (twisty) rudder connection .. using an old game port plug (the panther stick used a game port plug previously for the rudder connect .

i placed a disc on the pot then made a sloted bar that connects to the peddle main tube as for it was too sensitive and needed some built in freeplay . I added 2 more springs to the disc to hold it to an auto center .

the foot pads rotate about 30 deg's total because i sloted and added a post for a stop .

So far i have no spiking ... but i do get and off calibration every once and a while in the peddles ,I'm thinking twin pots in series may be the ticket here . I have another set of peddles that work this way and they were rock solid cal wise .. but there action is very hard to do comfortly . (they are sitting on top of the toolbox )

So these are my 1st set i made .. just a tinker project after work ..
( yes i bend,weld,beat up metal all the time )

I'll make another set soon but with lots of improvements .
a bearing instead of bushing in the center pivot for starters.
Design brakes , along with the main springs hidden underneath .
Then make adjustable spring rates, main stops, ped angles.

for interface it programs the same as a saitec and connects usb .
i had to make schematics for bolth sticks by hand and ohmmeter .. (Yes i wrote to bolth manufacturers and searched the net for weeks for them)

Ast · « **Reply #9 on:** January 22, 2006, 08:10:29 PM »

Nice weilds!

Gianlupo · « **Reply #10 on:** January 23, 2006, 02:41:58 AM »

Mr. Roo, can I have one?

If someone is as gifted as Roo with tools, there's a bunch of project for home made pedals (and much more) in the "How to" section of this site:

DamnedRen · « **Reply #11 on:** January 23, 2006, 07:26:37 PM »

Looks good! I'm still using my 14 year old TM peds

. I was also wondering about the throws of the pedals. Seems a little short. My thoughts were more throw - more precise rudder control especially around center. But, as you say, it's a first try and very well done!

Roscoroo · « **Reply #12 on:** January 23, 2006, 09:25:19 PM »

they have a 4 inch total travel with 1/2 -3/4's inch dead zone in center , which i was sort of after . My old peds were a work out to run ,,, one set was like a clutch in a 51 chev truck ... and the other was well like peddling a paddle boat .

I will probly increase the travel on my second set that ive started ( most of the mechanism will be underneath this time)

im thinking 6 inches total with adjustable distance stops down to 4 inches . along with adj spring tension this time .

ive been playing with the sliders in the cal for them and i can make them supersensitive or nice and forgiving . They defentally Love Combat trim off and ive only gotten the dreaded moving your controls too fast lock up only once in combat so far ... I think that may have been a game bug too as for i havent reproduced it yet . they've also settled down on needed recaled as of late (I soldered the wires to the pot instead of using connectors )

Gianlupo, Yes Good Site and I did get some info there , along with tons of research elsewere.
But the whole idea here was to create my own .. ("It's Alive ... It's Alive ") kinda thing ... I'm after more funtional /comfortable vs realistic .

Sled · « **Reply #13 on:** January 23, 2006, 11:10:56 PM »

You should vac. your floor once a year weather it needs it or not.

Seriously, they look good, I do some fabricating from time to time myself.

DamnedRen · « **Reply #14 on:** January 24, 2006, 12:29:51 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Roscoroo
ive been playing with the sliders in the cal for them and i can make them supersensitive or nice and forgiving . They defentally Love Combat trim off and ive only gotten the dreaded moving your controls too fast lock up only once in combat so far ... I think that may have been a game bug too as for i havent reproduced it yet . they've also settled down on needed recaled as of late (I soldered the wires to the pot instead of using connectors )

I don't think the "moving controls rapidly" is a game bug. An easy fix is to move your damper slider up just a little then try it again. The damper works to delay your input somewhat. In other words if you have a tendency to yank your stick (read: tromp pedals) when you take rounds and want to get out of their way sliding that bar up a little will "delay" that input to the controls just enuff to stop the messages. Try it and you will see the messages go away. Also, sensitivity of the throws might be set high? As in the slightest touch sends the message so fast to move the control surface that you get the message. I'm pretty sure the damper slider may fix your problems though. Again, nice job!