Author Topic: electrical question (Read 1318 times)

Furball · « **Reply #30 on:** February 12, 2006, 02:22:34 PM »

submerge it in water, that should do the trick pooslinger

midnight Target · « **Reply #31 on:** February 12, 2006, 04:51:02 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by zmeg
It's a ground fault problem, it means all the juce coming out through the hot wire is not being returned through the netural wire, making it a shock hazzard. Check for bad insulation on all the internal wiring.

Yep sounds like the GFCI is tripping.

Hangtime · « **Reply #32 on:** February 12, 2006, 05:10:19 PM »

"Hey, Marine! ..does the light stay on when you close the door? ...and are those jeep lug nuts still in the freezer?"

Gunslinger · « **Reply #33 on:** February 12, 2006, 05:26:10 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Hangtime

"Hey, Marine! ..does the light stay on when you close the door? ...and are those jeep lug nuts still in the freezer?"

ha ha ha (only three Ha's though, that's all that comment rates)

Hangtime · « **Reply #34 on:** February 12, 2006, 06:38:32 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Gunslinger
ha ha ha (only three Ha's though, that's all that comment rates)

BTW.. check for heat at the outlet, check for heat on the cabling. If it ain't hot, and it's poppin a GFCI, see the interior wiring short advice above.

Bear in mind if it's poppin a breaker, uppin the fuse value just means it'll draw more current. Had an AC unit that demanded a high amp circuit.. and I paid twice the price of a replacemnt AC unit in electric bills. Same thing happened to my brother.. he upped the current carrying ability to a worn-out garage deep freezer, took a three month RV trip and came home to a 600.00 electrical bill.

If it's malfing, it's time to fix it or scrap it. Choose to keep it on line.... well; the old adage 'pay for good gear now, or pay twice as much later' comes to mind.

Gunslinger · « **Reply #35 on:** February 12, 2006, 07:29:25 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Hangtime

BTW.. check for heat at the outlet, check for heat on the cabling. If it ain't hot, and it's poppin a GFCI, see the interior wiring short advice above.

Bear in mind if it's poppin a breaker, uppin the fuse value just means it'll draw more current. Had an AC unit that demanded a high amp circuit.. and I paid twice the price of a replacemnt AC unit in electric bills. Same thing happened to my brother.. he upped the current carrying ability to a worn-out garage deep freezer, took a three month RV trip and came home to a 600.00 electrical bill.

If it's malfing, it's time to fix it or scrap it. Choose to keep it on line.... well; the old adage 'pay for good gear now, or pay twice as much later' comes to mind.

I think the fridge is just caput. It doesn't pop the GFCI nore the breaker. The outlets are fine because all my tools (compressor, saw, drill) work just fine on them and I know they draw alot of current.

I took apart the back and I Know that the compressor itself on the fridge has a thermal protector but I can't seem to find it. I paid $50 for this thing and I know the guy so I'm thinking of just asking for my money back because my time and effort are more important. (IE I'm planning a PCS move, house hunting trip, outprocessing, and buying a house)

Speed55 · « **Reply #36 on:** February 13, 2006, 03:38:52 AM »

I bet the compressor locked up, there's possibly a burnt wire, or one of the starting components took a dump(relay, or capacitor) , especially if the unit doesn't work on any outlet. You Might have had a dead short, meaning that the hot leg and neutral were touching somewhere in the box, ,maybe because the insulation was no good, and now the insulation is melted so the power goes no where, which is why nothing happens when you turn it on. Could also be a bad thermostat. Compressors don't get dirty, condensers do. That's the coil on the outside of the box that rejects heat from the box.
Take it back, or find a friend that knows how to use a volt/ohm meter and troubleshoot the thing.
Don't mess with electricity, if you don't know what your doing, it's more dangerous than any MA horde.
Good luck man, warm beer sucks.

The thermal overload is a little disk looking think, with two wires going into it, usually under the cap on the compressor. With the unit off, and unplugged, you can check for continuity.

DieAz · « **Reply #37 on:** February 13, 2006, 04:52:42 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Gunslinger

I planned on making a kegorator out of this fridge in the near future.

Then you need a new bigger fridge with a dedicated power line from the power generating facility and several backup generators on site with enough fuel to run it for several years. and you will need to invite all of us in AH over for a BBQ once a month at least. make sure the kegorator is always full before the BBQ.

post before, during, and after pics of kegorator when ya get it done.
always interesting to see projects other people have done.

Ghosth · « **Reply #38 on:** February 13, 2006, 07:57:07 AM »

When a fridge compressor starts, especially an older one that may be getting iffy. You can get some serious start up amp draw. Certainly enough to pop a GFI.

Another thing, how long did that fridge sit after you moved it before you plugged it in? If it was laid down flat the oil can drain out of the compressor. Migrate out to the lines, causeing the compressor to have some major load on it.

Ussually if a fridge has been moved on its back give it a couple of hours standing back up before plugging it back in.

Last, unless your a contracter, I doubt you have a tool in your garage that takes half the start amps of that fridge. Air compressors, table saws, etc just don't need the same kind of Omphhhh to get them running.

Mustaine · « **Reply #39 on:** February 13, 2006, 08:59:07 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Ghosth
Last, unless your a contracter, I doubt you have a tool in your garage that takes half the start amps of that fridge. Air compressors, table saws, etc just don't need the same kind of Omphhhh to get them running.

thats a very important point...

especiaflly for a GFCI. if the outlet is wired properly, and in good working order, the only thing that would trip is is a huge draw, without the proper return.

Quote

A GFCI monitors the amount of current flowing from hot to neutral. If there is any imbalance, it trips the circuit. It is able to sense a mismatch as small as 4 or 5 milliamps, and it can react as quickly as one-thirtieth of a second.

basically all that juice makes the GFCI think the pwoer is going through something other than an electrical circut, and snapping.

if you need to learn more about GFCI...

also gunslinger... you really never should plug a refrigerator or freezer into a GFCI.

Quote

You should not plug a freezer or refrigerator into a GFCI protected receptacle. People often make this mistake, particularly in garages. The GFCI can trip in high humidity, during a thunderstorm, or from the surge of the motor starting.

hope that helps

capt. apathy · « **Reply #40 on:** February 13, 2006, 01:41:10 PM »

if it's the start-up draw that is popping it, just get a bigger start-up capacitor.

it'll give it the start-up power that it needs without drawing more from your line.

Gunslinger · « **Reply #41 on:** February 13, 2006, 01:50:03 PM »

Thanks for the help guys but I think the thing is caput.

Mustaine · « **Reply #42 on:** February 13, 2006, 02:21:06 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Gunslinger
Thanks for the help guys but I think the thing is caput.

well if you go get another fridge, it will just trip that GFCI again and again.

Gunslinger · « **Reply #43 on:** February 13, 2006, 07:13:37 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Mustaine
well if you go get another fridge, it will just trip that GFCI again and again.

nope I'm moving soon. I'm not exactly sure about the wiring in the Garage either way. I live in military base housing that was built in the 40s. They've been remodled several times since then and the garages were eventually added as an afterthought. The outlets in there were installed by a tennent, NOT housing mait. They don't line up and none of them are at the same height.

I talked to the guy that sold it to me today and he said he'd give me my money back and just put the fridge on the curb for the trash pick up (one luxury of living on base, don't have to take it to the dump and pay the fees)

xrtoronto · « **Reply #44 on:** February 13, 2006, 07:16:59 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Gunslinger
Thanks for the help guys but I think the thing is caput.

the big question is: where is all the beer at the moment?

(please include small diagram)