Author Topic: Paintball (Read 357 times)

nirvana · « **on:** July 17, 2006, 07:19:27 PM »

Couple of my friend s are going paintballing this weekend in some woods and I was wondering if anyone has any pointers. It seems you'd use more paint in a woodball game then an x ball or something like that, just do to the cover and such. I was thinking about buying 2000 balls, and a couple 9 oz tanks of co2, should hold me over for the day, i've no idea how long were going to play but I don't think 1000 would be enough. Oh and any of you guys in Colorado are welcome to come.

BlueJ1 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 17, 2006, 07:23:19 PM »

Ive only done paintball a few times. I can only give one tip. If your a camper, lays in one spot to ambush guys, wear a baseball cap backwards on your head. This way you wont get shot in the back of the neck. Hurts like no other when you get hit in the small soft spot where your skull meets your neck.

Golfer · « **Reply #2 on:** July 17, 2006, 07:40:03 PM »

Paint and air mileage vary with what kind of marker you're using. If you pack 3 9oz tanks of air and 2000 balls you'll be good for the day liberally applying paint to everything you see. 1000 goes fast, 2000 might leave you extra but you can just use those next time.

If you're using a tippman prolite/68 carbine or something of that sort I'd say take 4 tanks or 2 20oz tanks with a 7-9oz in case. they can eat air but are pretty good about it.

If you're using a spyder the 3 9oz tanks should do the trick.

Autococker...use HPA man...they hate CO2.

Anything more fancy...again...High Pressure Air/Nitro/Compressed Air.

If you can take the barrel you're using to the proshop and do a paint/barrel check. Take a ball and drop it in the barrel. If it falls through the paints too small. If you cant push it through with a gentle puff of air it's too big. You want to be able to push the ball through the barrel with a gentle puff of air which indicates a good match and the best accuracy.

Have fun!

nirvana · « **Reply #3 on:** July 17, 2006, 07:43:46 PM »

Oh yes, i'm the typicasl n00b. Tippmann 98 Custom, used it once in the 3 years i've had it, so I want to give it a good workout this time around. I don't like 20 oz tanks due to the weight, so I think i'll just get 4 of the 9 oz tanks, which is still $20:eek:

Oh I never got what they meant by "good paint" and "bad paint" I always thought it had something to do with the shell thickness and how easily it breaks, and stuff. Should be a pretty good time though, expecting 8-10 people at least.

That's the field, it's the whole wooded area and some outside of it as well, there's also an old abandoned airfield out that way that i want to go to but I doubt we will. The length of the wooded area is something like 500-600 yards though.

Tarmac · « **Reply #4 on:** July 17, 2006, 08:13:01 PM »

You'll use far less paint in a heavily wooded area than in a wide open speedball type area or "town" that could be there. Wooded areas usually funnel you to a couple of paths/choke points, so there's far less suppression fire needed. In a wide open field you've got multiple guys that you need to keep down, and you're taking long-range, low probability shots; in the woods you're often so close that it's impossible to miss. I like woods much better than the plywood cities that seem to have popped up at so many paintball fields (owners of course like them because you go through paint like water).

The biggest thing to tell a noob is MOOOOVE!!! Paintball is about angles. The way to take out a bunkered guy is to have paint coming at him from multiple directions... not just throw double the paint of the other guy. Move to a new bunker, and if you do it well the target will not be able to keep himself fully under cover from both you and your teammate; he will expose a foot, hopper, or butt cheek to one of you. Noobs love to bunch up 3 to a bunker, which is only slightly more useful than having only one guy in a bunker, so spread out. If you ever find yourself in a bunker with a teammate and you're both firing at the same target, find a new spot. He can keep their heads down while you're moving, then you can hit the target from the side next time he pops up to fire at your old position.

SunKing · « **Reply #5 on:** July 17, 2006, 08:20:37 PM »

I'm selling some Palmer Customized and very rare guns if anyone is interested and serious. PM me.

A Hurricane and a KP-3 pump.

PonyDriver · « **Reply #6 on:** July 17, 2006, 08:27:17 PM »

You'll lose less paint, as was mentioned, in the woods as opposed to speed ball. Not only is there less need but there is usually less opportunity for suppression fire. My biggest pointer would be to go out into the field before hand and learn the nuances of the terrain. I promise you, if you know the field better than the orther team, this will garner you a few extra kills and may even save you from being bunkered.

I shoot a modded 'cocker but there is nothing wrong with the Tippman. They aren't fancy but they are rugged and reliable. I do know that Tippman's tend to use a lot of Co2. load up... why get caught short?

Have fun!

nirvana · « **Reply #7 on:** July 17, 2006, 10:19:03 PM »

Alright, i'll just buy 2000 then and split it with my friend. Then I might go check out the field tomorrow, who knows. Wal Mart sells Co2 $5 for 9 oz or $10 for 20oz and their paint is somewhat expensive, I think sports authority has cheaper paint. I'll venture out and check tomorrow.

ramzey · « **Reply #8 on:** July 18, 2006, 12:15:05 AM »

1. If chk if that field dont have rule about field pain only. If you going to rent marker on the field, they make you buy their own paint. Also no red paint rule can be apply.
Unless its not commercial field , but somones backyard, so there are no rules.

2. If thats your first paintball, be sure you are going to use 1200-1500 balls in 5-6 hours. So, 2000 case per person is possibly good idea. Dont buy cheapest paint in wally world, they sell monsters for about 24$/2000, thats crap. Good paint cost about 40$ per 2000. But if you dont care about chopped balls and cleaning barrlel all the time, go for it ;-). Also when you buy paint, ask them to open box , balls are broken, pick another box and chk again.
Sports authority have higher prices on everything then wollyworld(at last in my town)

3. My tippmann a5 use 2 x 20oz co2 bottles for about 1000-1200 balls. My gf use tippman 98 custom and she use 9 oz tanks, something around 4 of them for 1000 balls.

nirvana · « **Reply #9 on:** July 18, 2006, 01:11:36 AM »

So why does cheap paint chop easier then more expensive?

This is just an open field so we can buy whatever paint we feel like without getting gouged for 200-500 balls for $20. Cleaning isn't too big of a deal, I can field strip in a few minutes, it's a little hassle but whatever. I've given some thought to the more expensive paint though.

I've played 2 times before, both on company owned courses so I know the whole speedball game and stuff. Fire a bunch of paint at one area and see if you can hit something.

Golfer · « **Reply #10 on:** July 18, 2006, 04:38:11 AM »

nirvana you really do get what you pay for. When I played I used Diablo or RPS Premium depending on the field/rules etc.

It has to do with the composition of the shell and how it's made. Cheap paint isn't made as well and is of lower quality. $40/2000 is about right for RPS Premium and that is a very good paint for what you're doing.

Have fun!

Bronk · « **Reply #11 on:** July 18, 2006, 10:38:46 AM »

nirvana

Some cheap paint can go the other way. Was forced to use some cheap paint at a field. Stuff was bouncing off people 25 feet away. Not only did it suck because it was so hard to get people out. When you did manage to get a break on anyone you were so close it stung like hell.

Never went back to that field and I'm betting I wasn't the only one.

Bronk

PonyDriver · « **Reply #12 on:** July 18, 2006, 02:02:03 PM »

Also, believe it or not, not all paintballs are made exactly the same size.
These varying sizes can play havoc on some guns(I'm old school and refuse to call them that gay "markers") especially the higher end one. More expensive paint tends to be sized more correctly and uniformly.

GtoRA2 · « **Reply #13 on:** July 18, 2006, 02:31:08 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by BlueJ1
Ive only done paintball a few times. I can only give one tip. If your a camper, lays in one spot to ambush guys, wear a baseball cap backwards on your head. This way you wont get shot in the back of the neck. Hurts like no other when you get hit in the small soft spot where your skull meets your neck.

Try getting hit in the nuts, you will KNOW the meaning of hurts like no other.

nirvana · « **Reply #14 on:** July 18, 2006, 03:57:47 PM »

Well it seems like these guys aren't jackahooch's about winning so I shouldn't have to worry asbout "frozen" paint, marbles, or guns chrono'd to as high as they can go. I'll go for the more expensive paint, thanks guys:rolleyes: