Author Topic: Joystick Recommendations (Read 1373 times)

xtyger · « **on:** August 24, 2006, 04:54:51 PM »

I've been through five different joysticks since I've been with AH. The last one had one of the handles that twists and operates the rudder. That drove me nuts because, even after I tried and tried to get used to it, it would often throw my aim off when I was in a tense high turning fight. No matter how hard I'd try, I'd always twist the handle just enough to screw me up. One the up side, it was nice to be able to use the rudder like that when landing.

Luckily, or unluckily, depending on how you look at it, that joystick went south when the throttle on it stopped working. In a huff I went to e-bay and ordered something I thought would be ok: A Logitech Attack 3 joystick. I didn't look too closely when I bought it only to find when it arrived, IT DIDN'T HAVE A HAT! Silly me. I looked at just about everything on the joystick but didn't think about a hat.

Actually, I like the joystick. I seem to do well with it but I have all the buttons set up for the different views and that can be a hassle as to look right and right forward I usually have to reach around the stick with my left hand to operate those views.

I like having the joystick without the twisty handle for rudder control but would love to have a hat again. Anyone know a good joystick with a throttle, hat, six to eight programmable buttons but no twisty handle? Also, anyone know a good source of a wide ranging supply of joysticks? Most catalogs I've seen only offer one or two brands.

Panzzer · « **Reply #1 on:** August 24, 2006, 05:08:14 PM »

Don't buy a Logitech. Unless their quality control has improved in the last years. How much should it cost?

B@tfinkV · « **Reply #2 on:** August 24, 2006, 05:23:07 PM »

expensive option~: get HOTAS and pedals from someone like CH products.

cheap option ~: MS sidewinder or saitek cyborg twisty sticks.

i have yet to see a non-twisty worth buying.

and if so, what would you use as rudder?

Krusty · « **Reply #3 on:** August 24, 2006, 05:25:17 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Panzzer
Don't buy a Logitech. Unless their quality control has improved in the last years.

It has not, fyi.

Hornet33 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 24, 2006, 05:53:42 PM »

I love my Saitek X45 with the rudder control on the throttle. I don't know if Saitek even makes this thing anymore, but if you want a decent stick and throttle combo without the twisty stick rudder this one is real good at a decent price. Paid around $60 for mine brand new 2 years ago and haven't had any problems at all.

Fully programable, 3 (8 way) hat switches, 3 modes of operation. 7 main buttons, mouse emulator, and 2 trim knobs. No force feedback but I never liked that myself anyway.

All in all this is the best stick I've ever owned. About the only complaint I have is that I think the stock base should be heavier. It tends to slide around on the desk if it's not modified. I ended up taking 2 of the base assembly screws out of mine and drilled all the way through the base, then used 2 1/2 inch wood screws and mounted the stick and throttle to my desk. Sucker doesn't move now.

Dichotomy · « **Reply #5 on:** August 24, 2006, 06:07:29 PM »

CH was recommended to me and, excepting the throttle, that's what I have. It feels sturdy and very very smooth, the button options are awsome, and the feet pedals really help my control. If you have the $$ go with CH even if it is a piece at a time.

Of course thats just my opinion.

Spatula · « **Reply #6 on:** August 24, 2006, 06:58:34 PM »

If money is no object try my setup:
- CH Fighterstick USB (not twisty)
- CH Pro Throttle USB (these have no rudder control on them, but have a mini joystick you COULD use as one?)
- CH Pedals gameport (you cant get these anymore, only the Pro Pedals USB).

IMO, CH is the only way to go for solid engineering, constant reliability, good spare parts dept (if needed to replace things that eventually wear out like pots etc).

The above will set ya back $450 or so but is well worth it. I've had my pedals for 6 years (1 1/2 yrs in storage tho) and not a sinlge problem. Had my stick for year now (had to replace my old analog version with a USB version a year ago - the analog version is still perfect after 4 years of flogging). The Throttle ive had 5 months now, but im expecting it to last many many years.

try http://www.chproducts.com or http://www.provantage.com for CH gear - i think provantage does em cheaper.

No one ever regretted buying quality

TequilaChaser · « **Reply #7 on:** August 24, 2006, 08:00:26 PM »

depending on where you live in this small blue marble, you can normally get a full CH USB setup for around $300.00 US currency, including shipping.........give or take a few bucks......if you are light on cash, opt for just the USB fighter stick ( has a rotary Throttle) and the USB pedals 1st......then buy the Pro Throttle at a later time............this knock it down to around $200.00.....................

or if you really light on the funds, opt for the CH Fighter stick ( remember AH has 4 Stick Modes!!!) and set a hat on the stick to work as your rudder for the time being, it isn't realistic, but it will work somewhat.and add as you get funds to do so..........

my analog-gameport CH HOTAS setup ( Fighterstick/prothrottle/propedals, is over 9 or 10 years old, and is still clicking along............)

good luck with what ever you decide to buy............

btw Provantage is usually best place or cheapest, there was another one someone listed, thinking Monarch? it fades my memory right now though , if that is not the place on the web........

hubsonfire · « **Reply #8 on:** August 24, 2006, 11:20:06 PM »

Any stick will give you the same basic functions. With the game settings, you can disable rudder function on a twisty stick, or play with deadband and dampening. Your dislike of twisty rudders need not affect your next stick purchase.

I've personally used (between AW, AH, and AH1) 4 logitechs, 4 saiteks, and a CH gameport stick. The CH stick had the best feel by far, but gameport connection and 4 way hats meant that was a no go for me. I picked up a Saitek X52 from one of the big box stores, and have been happy with it so far. Much better feel, and far more features than the cheaper Logitech and Saitek models, but not nearly as expensive as a CH HOTAS setup. Also, it will allow you to disable the twist function via a latch.
As an added bonus, like CH gear, it comes with software allowing you map all sorts of interesting features that the game interface does not.

While my first Saitek (an old Cyborg) lasted from AW through AH2, the next 2 didn't last 6 months, and at this point, I've probably wasted enough on budget sticks to have purchased a far better setup.

Having said that, had I the funds, I'd get a full USB CH rig without hesitation. The old CH stick I have is 11 years old, and (besides the outdated plug and 4way hats) absolutely perfect, despite many years of abuse through the cartoon careers of 3 different simgeeks.

moneyguy · « **Reply #9 on:** August 25, 2006, 07:46:54 AM »

X52 and CH pro pedals

lazs2 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 25, 2006, 08:07:27 AM »

CH USB stick and usb throttle and rudders.... about $250 and probly the last stuff you will ever have to buy. Most guys would destroy the old thrustmaster stuff in 6 months or so... Nothing else even comes close to being any good.

The only problem with the CH stuff if that the joystick is being marketed for little girls. there is no resistance. You can crudely fix this with 8, 1/2" rubber bands (2 at each axis or more for manly men, less for wussies) When they break... just add another.

or... you could just be a fluffer and use your mouse.

lazs
Public Relations Officer for the BK's

xtyger · « **Reply #11 on:** August 25, 2006, 08:52:00 AM »

Thanx for the tips, all.

TequilaChaser · « **Reply #12 on:** August 25, 2006, 09:31:38 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by lazs2

The only problem with the CH stuff if that the joystick is being marketed for little girls. there is no resistance. You can crudely fix this with 8, 1/2" rubber bands (2 at each axis or more for manly men, less for wussies) When they break... just add another.

lazs
Public Relations Officer for the BK's

I'd have to agree, I installed some hvy duty thick rubberbands about 4 or so years ago, helps the feel/throw tremendously.......but stick was getting worn somewhat was my reasoning.......alos crimping down the connectors to the spade terminals helped it even more and stopped the spikes after 5 or 6 yrs of use.......

Mace2004 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 25, 2006, 09:47:27 AM »

I've used Saitek's X-45 and X-52. Both are very good sticks, especially for the price. As someone else mentioned the X-45 may no longer be available but it does have the rudder rocker on the throttle which worked OK. It also has a much stronger stick spring than the 52 and is fairly stiff. The big weakness to the X-45 that I know of was the hat switch wears out fairly quickly and can't be repaired.

The X-52 does have the twist grip which I was very wary of but I found it works well and the stick is well made and solid. There is plenty of dead-band to prevent you from inadvertently putting in rudder in an engagement but using rudder (especially to the left) is pretty natural. Right rudder is a little awkward at times. I also really like the lighter spring and the hats are of different design, don't know if this will improve their life although I've had no problems. The twist grip can be locked as someone else mentioned and Saitek is coming out with a matching set of rudder pedals that look to be really nice. They're wider than the CH pedals (i.e., the pedals are farther apart) which fixes a complaint many have had about the CH pedals.

I've never tried the CH but for the price I'm very pleased with the X-52 and liked the X-45 (with the exception of the hat switch)

Mace

AKWarp · « **Reply #14 on:** August 25, 2006, 11:14:09 AM »

CH is the only way to go.

I've spent a lot of cash over the years buying sticks and such, even the venerable thrustmaster stuff. Nothing compares to the CH.

I have two CH setups. The first was the old gameport stuff, but my newer systems were no longer able to use gameport, so I bought a USB setup.

The gameport gear is almost 9 years old and still functions are good as it did on day one (my son uses it on his system) and the USB stuff is about 5 years old now and still working perfectly. Nothing has ever broken on them, and I haven't even had to replace any of the pots. No spiking, and I don't have to recalibrate every time I log in.

Also, the CH throttle and Fighterstick has 3 modes you can switch to and program a different stick set on each mode. I have one for fighters, one for GV's and one for buffs. Switching modes is as easy as clicking a single button. It's all self contained and I don't need to use any of the in-game stick mapping at all (yay!). If for some reason my stick goes crazy in game and I lose the mapping, it takes all of 10 seconds to click my stick map file and reload it into the CH devices and voila, back to normal.

Between the stick and throttle there are more buttons than I'll ever use and each can be programmed in any way you desire... you can even make a single button do 10 things if you want. You also can select several modes for each button (like direct X, straight data, etc) which allows you to change the functionality of each button specifically as it applies to any game, so you aren't stuck with using a certain button because that's what the game sees it as.

The fighterstick is 4 hats and 4 buttons (including the trigger) and the throttle has 4 hats and 3 buttons as well as a thumb mouse. Multiply that by 3 since each device has the three modes you can switch between.

The entire setup is pricey, but you'll only need to buy it once and it'll last you for years.

As for the spring resistance, I guess that's a personal thing. I always hated how stiff the thrustmaster stuff was. I like the CH as it is. I guess if you are ham fisted and have a tendency to get excited and jerk your joy stick around, you might want stiffer springs. If not, then the stock CH stuff is fine.