big wave surfing....

[indy007]

That wave is Cortez Bank, about 100 miles off the coast of California. iirc, there's a mountain just on the lip of the continental shelf. Deep ocean swells + mountain = massive breaks that can be surfed about once a decade.

I'll stick with tanker surfing, thank you

[Blank]

yup live in south devon, still surf regular both long and short board depending on my mood and the wave size , fistral is about 75 miles away on the north coast but many more better places than there,

heres a rare breaking wave at fistral in front of the headland hotel, its called the cribber:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/shared/spl/hi/picture_gallery/04/uk_the_cribbar/html/1.stm


My local beach is 'Bantham Beach' heres a few images of it:
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=6604
http://magicseaweed.com/photoLab/viewPhoto.php?photoId=3360

Agatha Christie wrote a number of her books in the hotel on Burgh island, which is famous for its Art Deco Ballroom.

I've surfed all over the world and next trip will prob be back to morocco in march/april for 3-4 weeks of endless pointbreaks :-)  mmmm loverly

[storch]

Originally posted by indy007
That wave is Cortez Bank, about 100 miles off the coast of California. iirc, there's a mountain just on the lip of the continental shelf. Deep ocean swells + mountain = massive breaks that can be surfed about once a decade.

I'll stick with tanker surfing, thank you

I hear ya.  I have some friends that surf the ship channel.  it was ok for a day out and you can almost eat lunch on that steady break lol.  in 1987 I won an amway trip to o'ahu.  I spent a few days surfing waikiki before braving up to the north shore, this was in january.  I'll preface by saying that I have surfed OB in sandiego on up to the classic breaks in southern california,  rincon in puerto rico and the east coast of eleuthera in the bahamas so I have some medium wave experience.  we went to turtle bay but the size and speed of the break was such as to inspire fear in this mostly east coast then 30 yr old surfer.  I didn't paddle out.  now that my kids are raised and almost out of the home I have been thinking about getting myself back into regular surfing.  this month I'll be heading up to singer island to surf there to re-aquaint myself with OMO. maybe I'll do an upcoast trip all the way up to jacksonville.  the beach off of mayport is an awesome break in the winter time.

[indy007]

Originally posted by storch
I hear ya.  I have some friends that surf the ship channel.

I don't know of anywhere else you can literally ride for a mile. It's pretty rare though I can actually get out there

Some of the breaks people surf are absolutely insane. Cortez Bank, Jaws, Pipeline, Mavericks, Teahupo'o... just nuts.

If you take a surf trip, make sure to put Playa Hermosa (Coasta Rica) on the list. Head a little south for the crowd to thin out. Sometimes though it'll get up to double overheads and closeout fast. Mal Pais is really good too, probably the most beautiful place in the entire country.

and for the record, I'm a horrible surfer. =P

[storch]

some guys poopoo what I'm about to type here but actually in my opinion central to north florida east coast breaks are good training grounds for aspiring watermen because the waves break so fast and you have pretty steep take offs for such small waves.  breaks such as ft pierce north jetty, spanish house, monster hole, new smyrna, ponte vedra will get you in shape to then go out and surf the out islands with confidence.  the breaks here aren't like the slow rollers you see in california where the take offs are leisurely by comparrison.  the breaks in england were actually pretty gnarly for their size, they packed a lot of juice for overhead breaks and they are fast fast waves.  it's easy for the borad to get ahead of you on those waves.  there's also some nice breaks in new england that are similar in performance white horse beach in manomet mass and  marshfield also break steep, fast and hard.

[Xjazz]

Originally posted by Mustaine
had a weird dream the other night about giant waves in the ocean... and though't i'd look up pictures of giant (50 foot +) waves and found this idiot:


http://youtube.com/watch?v=7nS_aR8XX_U


dude thats just insane. there are alot easier and probably less painful ways to attempt to kill yourself

When I  did see this video first time, I was sure its a computer animation...

Surfing... (sigh) My long long time dream.

[indy007]

iirc, it's from Step Into Liquid. Really good surfing documentary. Looks absolutely amazing in high def. Good bit about tanker surfing, foil boards (air chair.. with the chair sawed off), and some absolutely monstrous breaks.

[storch]

I missed that film, maybe they'll play it on sundance sometime soon.  the one that really impressed me is the one by peralta, riding giants.

[eskimo2]

I lived in Hawaii for a year and nearly spent more time in the water than I did in bed.  I kayaked and paddled everywhere.  My boat was a 19 foot surf-ski racing boat.  It was made for distance, speed and efficiency at the expense of stability and turning.  I surfed my boat as well; it was so efficient that it could ride in on the smallest waves but couldn’t cut diagonally more than 10 degrees.  I eventually surfed bigger and bigger waves and have been washed over end over end more times than I can remember.  I’m not sure how big the waves were but they could swallow a 19 foot boat lengthwise.  I know that they were no where near the size posted in the links above.  


My car and boat

I made a homemade waterproof helmet cam out of a Tupperware container with Lexan siliconed to one end, bungee-corded to an old bike helmet.  It worked but I was afraid that if I ever tangled with a big wave the extra mass and flotation would tear my head off.  When a wave eats you up it can be quite violent.  

Anyway, here’s a helmet cam clip of me surfing some small safe waves in Waikiki:

http://hallbuzz.com/movies/hawaii/kayak_hawai_surfing_320.wmv  

(5 min, 13 mb)

[StarOfAfrica2]

Nice beach car.  

The footage of the Na Hoku II was a little weird for me though.  Just a few weeks ago it was involved in an accident.  The mast snapped and killed a young boy from California and injured two others.  

Got a good laugh out of the parts you set to music tho.    Nice video.

[Halo]

Great footage, eskimo2!  Such fun, especially seeing the surf from so far out.  I surfed Oahu from 1973-77, mostly just mild stuff off Waikiki and Barbers Point.  Best time of my life.  Nothing beats joining the energy of the waves on that perfect water.

[Blank]

cool footage eskimo,

but seeing boats in surf made me go find this vid again, showing Aussies doing the whole surf boat thing, they are totally mad.

Surf Boat Montage:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfqoLyk8XMw&mode=related&search=

[Mustaine]

Originally posted by Blank
cool footage eskimo,

but seeing boats in surf made me go find this vid again, showing Aussies doing the whole surf boat thing, they are totally mad.

Surf Boat Montage:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfqoLyk8XMw&mode=related&search=

doesn't suprise me.


aren;'t they all just a bunch of murderous ex-con's who escaped from the penal colony / insane asylum?

[eskimo2]

If you liked that one, heres my wife and I submarine chasing in Hawaii in 95(back when we were dating).  It's the only other footage that I took with the helmet cam.  There's no surfing in this clip, just dorking around.  The end shows the helmet cam.

http://hallbuzz.com/movies/hawaii/kayak_hawaii_sub_chase_320l.wmv

11.5 minutes, 30 MB

[indy007]

Originally posted by storch
I missed that film, maybe they'll play it on sundance sometime soon.  the one that really impressed me is the one by peralta, riding giants.

Actually I've never seen it on Sundance. The first time I saw it was on Showtime. After that, I went straight to best buy & bought the DVD. It's actually a good DVD. Comes with a DVD disc & PC HiDef disc with a bunch of other content & a free tony-hawk-type surfing game (that was originally $50 for xbox/ps2).

Good stuff