Author Topic: Need Engine Help  (Read 2987 times)

Offline Gunslinger

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« Reply #60 on: March 03, 2007, 12:54:18 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by storch
that looks like you are making oil.  maybe a head gasket maybe a cracked block.  does the starter turn over slugglishly in the morning?  what does the dipstick oil look like when you check it cold?


The dipstick looks like it's normal dark color.  Underneith the valve cover is where I'm seeing the weird coloring.

storch

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« Reply #61 on: March 03, 2007, 12:56:07 PM »
you have a small leak probably the head gasket.  has the car overheated recently?

Offline SteveBailey

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« Reply #62 on: March 03, 2007, 12:56:24 PM »
Hmm not good.  Feel the coolant.. slippery(more than normal)?   Sludge on finger?

Milky stuff on dipstick?   You are really narrowing it down now.

Starting to look like your worse fears are likely... warped head(s), cracked block, blown gasket.

storch

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« Reply #63 on: March 03, 2007, 01:01:02 PM »
you might be getting water/coolant into the #1 cylinder hence my question about the struggling starter in the AM but if the leak is small it would not be pertinent.  what john001 said

Offline Gunslinger

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« Reply #64 on: March 03, 2007, 01:06:06 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by storch
you might be getting water/coolant into the #1 cylinder hence my question about the struggling starter in the AM but if the leak is small it would not be pertinent.  what john001 said


It starts up just fine in the morning.  Yes it did recently over heat.  It didn't boil over, but it got up to 240 on the guage where it normally sits at or below 210.  I added coolent and all was better.

Offline culero

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« Reply #65 on: March 03, 2007, 01:15:54 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by john9001
you have coolent in your oil , time for a leak down test, and compression test.


GS, john9001 is correct, the picture of the breather and cap clearly indicate coolant mixing in the oil. However, the leakdown test and compression test aren't necessary.

Proceed to remove the cylinder head. Have it pressure tested for cracks. If it fails, obtain another cylinder head.

If it passes that test, check its gasket surface with a precision straightedge. If it is not straight then have it milled, unless it needs more than about .015" removed to be straight, in which case obtain another cylinder head.

Install the head with a new gasket. I highly recommend Fel-Pro brand.

Install a new thermostat. Use the OEM temperature rating, do not listen to the numerous idiots who will recommend using a "colder" one.

Backflush the cooling system, then remove the radiator and have it rodded out. If it has leaks in the core, replace the radiator with a new one.

Inspect the fan clutch, replace it if necessary. Make sure any electric auxiliary fans are working.

Use new antifreeze to fill the cooling system, 50% - 65% concentration (no less, no more).

Change the oil and filter.

That is all, troop :)
“Before we're done with them, the Japanese language will be spoken only in Hell!” - Adm. William F. "Bull" Halsey

storch

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« Reply #66 on: March 03, 2007, 01:44:18 PM »
^^^^^

the great and powerful Oz has spoken.  my amateur services are no longer needed here.  :D

Offline Gunslinger

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« Reply #67 on: March 03, 2007, 02:15:58 PM »
I'm a pretty handy mechanic but I've never even thought about pulling an engine head.  This will probably be left up to the proffesionals....:(

storch

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« Reply #68 on: March 03, 2007, 02:21:59 PM »
it's not that big of a deal but if you can afford to that wouldn't be a bad idea.

Offline culero

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« Reply #69 on: March 03, 2007, 04:38:43 PM »
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Originally posted by Gunslinger
I'm a pretty handy mechanic but I've never even thought about pulling an engine head.  This will probably be left up to the proffesionals....:(


Its not actually a job I'd say exceeds the capabilities of the average DIY-type guy. Its a fairly lengthy procedure (I would budget a day and a half, prolly double that for an amateur) but its just a long list of relatively simple things to do. Get a Chilton or Haynes manual at the auto supply and read the procedure, then just follow it step-by-step and you really can't go wrong.

The base hobby shop will have everything you need, and if you do it at home you can borrow a torque wrench (about the only thing other than hand tools that is needed) from the auto supply that sells you the head gasket set.

That said, if you can afford it of course farm it out (you prolly have better things to do with your free time). However, when shopping for estimates, BE DAMN SURE to both get them in writing, and make sure they include each and every item in the list I gave you above. Many shady operators will quote you just the labor to replace the head gasket plus the gasket set, then proceed to nickle and dime you to death with the rest once they've torn it down.

Hope this helps, g'luck.
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Offline Masherbrum

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« Reply #70 on: March 03, 2007, 04:46:49 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Gunslinger
The coolent looks brown and foamy


Easy.   You have a cracked head.   You'd KNOW if you had a cracked block.   IT would be a lot worse.
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Offline Gunslinger

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« Reply #71 on: March 03, 2007, 05:51:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by culero
Its not actually a job I'd say exceeds the capabilities of the average DIY-type guy. Its a fairly lengthy procedure (I would budget a day and a half, prolly double that for an amateur) but its just a long list of relatively simple things to do. Get a Chilton or Haynes manual at the auto supply and read the procedure, then just follow it step-by-step and you really can't go wrong.

The base hobby shop will have everything you need, and if you do it at home you can borrow a torque wrench (about the only thing other than hand tools that is needed) from the auto supply that sells you the head gasket set.

That said, if you can afford it of course farm it out (you prolly have better things to do with your free time). However, when shopping for estimates, BE DAMN SURE to both get them in writing, and make sure they include each and every item in the list I gave you above. Many shady operators will quote you just the labor to replace the head gasket plus the gasket set, then proceed to nickle and dime you to death with the rest once they've torn it down.

Hope this helps, g'luck.


maybe I'll give it a shot, I'm on leave all next week.  I'm replacing the stock manifold (as soon as it gets here) If I have the thing torn apart I might as well kill two birds with one stone.

Offline Coshy

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« Reply #72 on: March 04, 2007, 06:54:03 AM »
I had an old chevelle that overheated, without thinking about what I was doing I filled the radiator up with coolant before the block had a chance to cool down. Result was a cracked block. It ran fine for about a week, then started blowing white smoke (actually vaporized coolant), became hard to turn over (assuming excessive friction in #1 cylinder) and eventually wouldnt turn over at all. I knew I either had a cracked block or blown head gasket. I eventually pulled the head, here are some things I learned in that process.

When you take off the head (a realtively simple, if time consuming task), mark EVERYTHING. I mean EVERYTHING. Get yourself a roll of masking or duct tape, a sharpie, a handful of ziplock bags, some clean lint free rags, and a box or 2 of disposable vinly/nitrilite(sp) gloves and an egg carton. Mark every harness plug and its mate with tape, do the same for each and every vacuum hose, number both the male and female parts. When you reassemble you can just match the #'s (or letters, whichever) up. Dont rely on your memory, you will have too many other things to think about than wether this hose goes to this port, or to the one next to it. With modern computer screwedup ... I mean controlled engines, one insignificant hose out of place can cause headaches.

Wear the gloves. Be one with the gloves. They are disposable, use them accordingly. There is nothing worse than trying to find the baggie with the exhaust manifold bolts, only to find the label for each baggie is all covered with oil, grease and road grime. They also make going for a smoke/burger/stripper much easier. Your wife will appreciate them too, no more grease smeared door handles, or the grease spot about elbow high where you push the door closed (its these kind of little 'thoughtful' things you should do to REALLY screw with her mind).

Use the eggcarton to hold things specific to each cylinder, such as valves, rods, springs, or any other little do-dads. Mark one end of the egg carton FRONT to correspond with the front of the vehicle. Each 'set' of egg holders will correspond to one cylinder. (12 egg holders/2= 6 cylinders). When I did my truck (4.9L 6 cly) I put the headder bolts in the egg carton as well, it was reccomended to reinstall them in the same order as they were removed. Most books also suggest reinstalling the cylinder head bolts in the same place as well.

When you remove a set of nuts/bolts/screws/washers/etc from a particular unit or part, place them ALL in a ziplock back and label the bag with what is in it. An example would be your intake manifold bolts, Alternator bolts/nuts, EFI fasteners, etc, etc.

When you have the head off, take a look at the cylinder walls. I could distinctly see the cracks in my cylinder walls, that discovery saved me the time of checking the condition of the head (which ended up as a boat anchor btw).

Eventually you will take off the manifold/carb/efi, when you do, cover it up with the lint free rags. It is a ROYAL pain in the backside to get terrycloth fluff out of a carb/intake. Trust me on this.

Moral is, be anal about your disassembly. It makes putting things back together so much easier. You will know what goes where, and how many of these doohickeys go on the thingamabob. As an added bonus, you dont end up with a box of "spare" parts.

Speaking of ... I have a box of assorted 350ci spare parts, anyone interested? ;-)

I hope it goes well.
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Offline culero

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« Reply #73 on: March 04, 2007, 06:56:39 AM »
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Originally posted by Gunslinger
maybe I'll give it a shot, I'm on leave all next week.  I'm replacing the stock manifold (as soon as it gets here) If I have the thing torn apart I might as well kill two birds with one stone.


Hey once you have the manifolds off, the rest of taking the head off is really simple.
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Offline culero

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« Reply #74 on: March 04, 2007, 06:59:16 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Coshy
snip

Moral is, be anal about your disassembly. It makes putting things back together so much easier. You will know what goes where, and how many of these doohickeys go on the thingamabob. As an added bonus, you dont end up with a box of "spare" parts.


Yanno, that's really great advice. It hadn't occured to me, but a professional can simply look at things and recognize where they are supposed to go. If you don't do it everyday, leaving a trail of bread crumbs might save your bacon.
“Before we're done with them, the Japanese language will be spoken only in Hell!” - Adm. William F. "Bull" Halsey