Originally posted by Krusty Stick scaling doesn't change the time it takes to get to a deflection, that's dampening. Scaling has 2 extremes, 0 and 100. At 0 (center) you will have the same deflection as the stick. At 100 you will have the same deflection as the stick. What the scaling does is change the position of the stick and the position on the curve between those two points. The older graph was much better at showing this.I drew a fast graph. Pretend this is accurate EDIT: This is only one direction. Mirror it on the left side to see both left and right motion for the same axisThe green line is your stick movement. You have zero to full, in a smooth straight line. This is what you get when you disable "scaling" on the scaling page.Now, we'll use my Y-axis. Pretend it's a bit more curved. By taking my Y-axis and scaling it like I did, I get the red line. This means the more push the stick along its deflection (from 0 to 100) I get less movement. This mean I can fine-tune my position. Then as the scaling jumps up it moves more at the further deflection, until finally at the end it's 100% again.The yellow lines are the sliding scales. The bottom of each yellow line is its own 0 and the top of each is its own 100. Think of it as a percent of the total deflection possible. I'm not sure if I've described that clearly, but I tried. I hope it was helpful.
Originally posted by Krusty I was tagging along with spiked earlier today as a passenger while he was fighting. I didn't have much time and might have had to leave in the middle of a fight, so he let me watch. I noticed the nose bounce he had and asked him about it, and told him I had the same problem a while back. I used to have that same problem.For the most part it's been eliminated. Even when I still used a twisty-stick rudder I was able to get rid of most of it.What's the problem? Most of it's scaling. Here's an image for illustration:Now the crosshair is where you're pointing without rudder input. I aimed high so you could see the stuff I was about to draw on it and still see the target. The green (green = good) is where you want it. The yellow (yellow = caution) is where it goes. The smallest possible input on your rudder axis produces a large leap. In fact it usually takes a bit more than "minimal" input before this first leap in input takes effect. You end up going PAST the target, then if you over correct or try to reduce the rudder it swings all the way past to the other side. You end up going back and forth around the target, as illustrated with the red lines on top (red = bad).There is a way to fix this. I spent many hours fine-tuning my twisty-stick to get it to the point where I could aim well using the twisty stick. I got SO good at aiming with my twisty stick it's taken me this long to become comfortable after switching to pedals!Okay, the problem is you don't have any fine-tuning ability. The smallest input you can give produces too large a rudder deflection. Go to your rudder scaling in aces high, and try this:I've had this memorized, I spent so much time getting it right. I reproduced it offline right now (I don't use it with the pedals, they're a different beast altogether).You see how the first 10%, 20%, are almost the same? 30% is only a hair more, and 40% is where it starts climbing? This means you use more input and get LESS results. That means you CAN fine-tune your shots. When you use rudder you will no longer zip back and forth across the target. However, you WILL have to re-learn your aiming. It will take some time to get comfortable, as you will need to add MORE input than you're used to. Once you're used to adding more input you'll be good to go.A side note about this scaling. It's designed to allow more motion with less input on the first half of the scale. That means no more "push until the stick kicks in -- oops it's kicked in too much I better back off". It's more like "I know I have to push anyways, and when it kicks in it will be gentle". Then as you get past the fine-tuning stage, you get into the rudder range most often used for movements. Half-deflection would be more useful with coordinated turns, or applying rudder to prevent slip in slow-speed spiral climbs, and so on. The last stage goes very steeply, because there are only a few times you need 100% rudder deflection, and usually you're slamming on the rudder pedal and it doesn't require any fine tuning. You would use this for forcing over-shoots, possibly correcting spin, and slowing down to land (side slipping). Note that I cannot put them all at zero. My stick spikes even while at rest. If I set them at zero it will spike in game and I will get "do not move so fast" messages. You want some deadzone to prevent spikes and accidental auto-pilot disabling. You do NOT want to move your deadband higher than the level of your lowest slider. The lowest slider in this case is the first 10%. If you still have spiking and you need to shift deadband up, then you must move all the sliders from 1 through 5 up as well, so that the lowest one is still above the deadband slider. Then adjust the others to continue the curve.If you have deadband higher than your first sliders, then your input will skip those and "jump" to the next highest one, and you get back to the problem with sudden jerky motions.Is this system perfect? No. It's pretty close, though. I literally spent a couple of years constantly changing and tweaking it, and this helped me get rid of most of my aiming problems.You can do similar things to X and Y axis as well, but I would suggest a more casual slope, as you don't need as much fine tuning on those. You might not need this on anything but your rudder.If you have any questions please ask. I had to go out, but was thinking about typing this up while I was out, and hope I haven't missed anything vital or important.EDIT: A note on fine-tuning. 50/60/70 are what you'd do if you were uncomfortable with the mid-range motions. Were I still using a twist-action, I'd lower these a little, to allow a little more finesse. 80 should always be halfway between 70 and 90, but 50/60/70 will define the angle of the curve between 40 and 90.
