Krazy,
I answered your PM and havent heard back from you yet. Is the issue solved?
Do you have your trim assigned to any rotaries/sliders?
If yes, do you move/center them when calibrating as well?
Here are some tips on scaling:
Joystick settings..... I know people ask again and again, what the good sticks have as settings and use them for themselves. While this gives you an idea what to do, settings depend so much on your stick brand, how worn out it is, your personal preferences.... Ill try to explain the basics of the settings to you, maybe giving you the possibility to find your own, personal "favorite stick settings".
First of all, youll have to set the settings sliders, as well as deadband and damping for each axis seperatly. Select the axis you want to work on and then check the ADVANCED box. Make sure the advanced tab shows the axis you are adjusting in the upper left corner.
What you also should know about scaling: It will NOT affect your overall range of motion… it will only add time delay to the movements, smoothen them out thus. You can watch the lines in the blue box move – raw (unscaled) and scaled… 45% stick deflection will still be 45% input – but the time it takes to get there is different.
Deadband: This is the easiest of all. As little as possible - as much as neccessary. Deadband depicts the “dead area” around the center position of the stick, where movement is not recognised as input yet. If you have your Joystick spiking, if you notice autopilot being thrown off without you moving the stick, youll need to raise it.
Also, if you use a Twisty Rudder, you might want to add some dead band on that axis to avoid unintentional input in the heat of a fight.
Damping: This adds an overall 'sluggishness' to your JS inputs, like a small temporal delay added to the reaction to stick input. Depending, if you have a rather light hand on your stick youll probably want this to be as low as possible (I got mine all at the way down, about ½ slider width from the bottom). If you feel your input is too touchy overall, raise this slider.
Also, if you get a “don’t move your controls so rapidly” a lot: Try recalibrating your stick – if this doesn’t help, adding some damping sometimes does.
Now to the Individual Sliders to the right. Those "scale" your stick input. Meaning, the time delay added to the input is only on part of the motion range (in 10% of the motion range for each, since you have ten sliders). The higher the sliders are, the more immediate is the input. This makes for a very fine control, but also a skitterish one and maybe (some planes more, some less) an unstable nose (“nose bounce”). All the way down makes for a very smooth, but also sluggish response.
I dont know your preferences. If you prefer to have a very fine control that needs a light hand and might be a little touchy, i recommend you start out with all sliders maxed out at the top. Then adjust from there, lowering the first few in a staircase way to soften any heavy nose bounce you might encounter. For Elevator, I have the first four sliders stair-cased, starting about half an inch from top. For rudder I have the first and the last 3 slightly lowered (also staircase), since I was using a rocker rudder with a small range of motion – also added 1/2 inch of damping on that. Roll axis is all maxed out, since it doesn’t come into play with nose bounce. (ill attach screenies from my old stick setup)
If you dont like your controls that touchy (or if your joystick doesnt "allow" this minute input - ie you just keep stalling all over the place) I recommend you start out from a staircase (first slider 1/3 – 1/2 down).
Like AKAK shows in his stick settings
http://trainers.hitechcreations.com/files/murdr/stickscale.zip (the zip also contains great info on gunnery and energy)
I hope this rather long winded explanations makes sense to you and helps you finding your own settings. Maybe you also want to check out the explanation for stick settings at netaces, heres the link:
http://www.netaces.org//joystick.pdf
