Nose bounce -adjust settings?

[1Boner]

I've looked around and couldn't find anything that helped me.

If i go into the advanced part of the control section, there are these axis and damping settings.

1st off, will changing the damping or dead settings help whith nose bounce?

If so which one?

Sliding the dampers etc up? Or down to increase the damping effect.

Will messing with any of this stuff help to eliminate or decrease nose bounce?


Thanks,

Boner

[Yossarian]

What type of joystick are you using, and how old is it?  It sounds like it may be wearing out.

<S>

Yossarian

[LLogann]

Hey 1Boner <S>

I don't know how to correctly set such sliders but I'll tell you this....

With my HOTAS Cougar, it got so bad I had to buy a new stick (x52 Pro).  Got to the point that if I had it deadpanned and dampened for flight, I couldnt gv and if it was set for gv, the stick had no response at all in the air.

I know this dont help at all and I hope you find your way!!!

Or as Yossarian says..... Might just be time for a new one.  That's what I did.

What type of joystick are you using, and how old is it?  It sounds like it may be wearing out.

<S>

Yossarian

[1Boner]

I have a realtively new (6-8 months old) Logitech 3d pro.

This has been going on for a while though, regardless of the stick I am using at the time.

Will adjusting my dampening or dead band settings help correct this, of is it just something I have to live with?

If I come out of a turn or level off to target a con, the sight seems to bounce around for a while, making it hard to get off a good shot.


Thanks Guys,

Boner

[The Fugitive]

Yes by adjusting the damping slider it will slow the initial movement of the stick, it will make it act like your not jerking it around. The other sliders to the left can also be used to adjust how your stick movement reacts with the actual axis movement.

Now with that said, 90 percent of the folks polled will say that the logitech sticks are junk. I had one years ago and could never get it to act smoothly. I got me CH stuff and have never looked back.

[Spatula]

I have a realtively new (6-8 months old) Logitech 3d pro.

6-8 months would be pushing the useful life of logi-crap sticks. Even a new one i wouldn't trust. Sounds like you want a new stick. Go the the game controllers applet on your PC, select your stick, and hold the stick dead still back a 1/3 or so and watch the little cursor. If it stays dead still you're ok, if it wobbles and jumps around a bit then your pots probably are dying. repeat for up and down, left and right on box axis and the rudder.

Get some CH kit and never worry about gear again.

[Chalenge]

First off if this helps you contribute to my monthly AH bill! 

/shameless bid for contributions

After helping all of my squad guys with nose bounce an epiphany struck and I learned not only how to fix it but which sticks suck and which ones dont after trying to help others use this to get rid of nose bounce. Learning all of this took many many hours of work in the TA with squaddies to sort it all out and many many hours talking to guys that have flown AH for years longer then I have. Every time someone in our squad had to do a reinstall or bought new equipment we would start all over again and finally we got this down to a science and everyone on the same page. At least this is a good place to start and you can modify it for your own tastes.

As far as bounce goes and you can have your own opinion obviously but mine is as follows: A little bounce is a good sign and a lot is bad. Fighters have to be a little unstable and lack of nose bounce is a pretty good indication of stability. Too much is very very bad for gunnery and a little is good for freedom (the six-degree kind). If you are going to make adjustments I suggest going to the advanced window enabling scaling and pushing all bands to 100% and then while flying level at above cornering speed for the plane you fly most and advance deadband until auto pilot holds and the plane does not come out of autopilot on its own. Repeat this after deadbands are set correctly and then turn off autopilot (and dont even try combat trim) and slap/pull the stick rapidly and let go. CH is easiest to set this way because of the quality springs. Advance the dampening until your nose bounce just disappears and then back it off to give your plane a little freedom. You have to do this for the three axis (elevator rudder and ailerons).

Some sticks require that the 10-30 or even 50 band sliders are turned down from 100% in order to completely be rid of bounce (a nice gradual curve of response on those kinds of sticks works nicely). I have never seen a CH with that problem. If you turn up your dampening beyond what might seem reasonable then try to turn down the band sliders a little and start over. Might seem like a lot of work but once you have this right you will be a deadly shot and more importantly you wont snaproll in tight turns unless you want to and even blackouts become rare. 

Now you are ready for ACM 101. 

[Chalenge]

I suggest going to the advanced window enabling scaling and pushing all bands to 100% while setting deadband and dampening to 0 and then while flying level at above cornering speed for the plane you fly most and advance deadband until auto pilot holds and the plane does not come out of autopilot on its own. Repeat this after deadbands are set correctly and then turn off autopilot (and dont even try combat trim) and slap/pull the stick rapidly and let go. CH is easiest to set this way because of the quality springs. Advance the dampening until your nose bounce just disappears and then back it off to give your plane a little freedom. You have to do this for the three axis (elevator rudder and ailerons).

fixed

If you find autopilot holds with deadband at zero you are fortunate to have good pots and dont have to use any deadband. That is rare but it can happen that way.

[Ack-Ack]

Search the Help/Training forum for some stick scales that have been posted.  Some have been made (such as mine) to help cut down or eliminate the nose bounce.


ack-ack

[Chalenge]

I dont think that will work ack-ack because depending on their system and stick choices their settings will be different and the only way to get it absolutely right is to go through the process. That being my experience after helping an awful lot of players.

[Ack-Ack]

I dont think that will work ack-ack because depending on their system and stick choices their settings will be different and the only way to get it absolutely right is to go through the process. That being my experience after helping an awful lot of players.

Depends on how the stick scale is made.  The one I made has been tested on a myriad of sticks and is used by quite a few players.  The only ones that have tough times using my stick scale are those that use twisty sticks but YMMV.  At the least, it can give you an idea on how to scale your stick to your preferences.


ack-ack

[Chalenge]

File has been deleted...

Could be that doing both would not be a bad thing.

[Max]

I have a realtively new (6-8 months old) Logitech 3d pro.

Many players, myself included, have had problems with this stick along the lines you've described. You're best off getting another stick.

[Roscoroo]

now most logijunks wont lose the bounce/ spiking because of there wanna be potentiometers .. but this works on alot of normal sticks that get bounce.
start your scaling at 30 % up or more  (mines at 50%)

[Chalenge]

I dont think that will work ack-ack because depending on their system and stick choices their settings will be different and the only way to get it absolutely right is to go through the process. That being my experience after helping an awful lot of players.

Roscoroo each and every flier in the game will have different setups even with the exact same stick.