Author Topic: Aiming the 30mm+  (Read 1408 times)

Offline Ghosth

  • AH Training Corps (retired)
  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8497
      • http://332nd.org
Re: Aiming the 30mm+
« Reply #15 on: February 10, 2010, 08:21:07 PM »
Yes, just set convergence close, shoot close, and accept that the 20's and the 30's are going to hit at different spots.

Example, come in from high and to the side, light up one wing. If you judge it right they'll all hit, and the wing will more or less evaporate.

Secret to buff hunting is to not put rounds into big empty fuselage. But concentrate your fire where it does the most good.
Also no level bomber that is in AH will fly with a missing wingtip. Some fighters will, but the bombers all fall away into uncontrolled flight once they lose a wingtip.
 

Offline Delirium

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7276
Re: Aiming the 30mm+
« Reply #16 on: February 10, 2010, 09:04:19 PM »
Given that the ballistics difference between the 20mms and 30mms is so great, is there really any point to taking that load out?

The difference in weight is only about 200 lbs, it really depends on what you're hunting, fighters or buffs.
Delirium
80th "Headhunters"
Retired AH Trainer (but still teach the P38 selectively)

I found an air leak in my inflatable sheep and plugged the hole! Honest!

Offline Saurdaukar

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8610
      • Army of Muppets
Re: Aiming the 30mm+
« Reply #17 on: February 11, 2010, 01:20:38 PM »
Help please how do you aim the 30mm 37 and 40 what convergence and anybody got any custom gunsight's for firing the 30mm.I wanna learn how to aim the p39 for snapshot and I cant hit a a bomber from 200feet out from this thing I can just takes like 10rounds just to hit it. :cry

I cant speak for the larger guns, but hitting with the tater, in my opinion, is more a product of position and timing than raw "aim," as evidenced by my inability to hit anything short of an aircraft carrier in a dead six position.

The dispersion of the rounds is so great that trying to be a sharpshooter with the 108 is pretty difficult.  The longest tater shot I ever made was in excess of 650 meters and it was blind luck (it was also Pacer  :neener: ).  Typically, I dont fire until within say... 250 - better still under 150.

Against all aircraft, you need to be able to predict the flightpath of the EAC and position your nose, with your wings perpendicular to that flight path, in such a way as to allow for a crossing snapshot.  "Continuous lead" shots are difficult and I wont even waste my time (or ammo) pulling the trigger, frankly.

The requirements are slightly less strict in a 262, however, as you have four guns as opposed to the K4's or 152's single hub gun.  In that case, you can be more liberal with your trigger finger.  

Two great pieces of advice I received were (credit to moot and grizz) "aim to hit with the first round" (in single-30mm AC) and "expand the convergence differential" (in 262).  

That is, when you fire that snapshot in the K4, throw 3-5 rounds out, maximum, and aim to hit with the first.  Surprisingly, this leads to much better accuracy (for me, anyway).

With respect to the 262, a separation of about 50 yards between the upper and lower guns provides a great shotgun effect - with every round being potentially lethal.  There is, in other words, no reason to use a narrow cone of fire as you would with 50's.

Practice makes perfect, as with all things.  It would not be a waste of your time to simply log in in "offline" mode and experiment with convergences, lead, etc against drones.  Cant hit something pulling evasives until you can hit something relatively straight and level.

EDIT:  To echo some other comments, I also avoid buffs in the K4.  While it may have been fantastic in WWII for putting maximum destructive power in the air in a minimum amount of time, you need to consider the differences between how buffs were attacked in reality - and in AH.

In reality, you made a single pass, usually head on, 95% of the time.  Theoretically, this freed you to loose all 60 rounds at a single target before bugging out.

Since a single pass and a bug out is no fun (and we cant die paying a game), the ammo load is insufficient, in my opinion, to deal with anything more than say... three buffs... if the 50's dont knock out your radiator, first.

As has been previously stated; I'd rather have a Jug or even a Corsair for the task and I'd even leave the cannon Hog at home.  If I had an A8, I'd rather use the 4x151/20's than add 30's to the mix.  4x151/20's is more than enough firepower to hit any bomber hard enough to pop it and it doesnt matter how destructive the 30 is, by comparison, if you cant hit with it.
« Last Edit: February 11, 2010, 01:32:13 PM by Saurdaukar »

Offline WMLute

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 4512
Re: Aiming the 30mm+
« Reply #18 on: February 11, 2010, 01:58:18 PM »
Another thing you should consider is setting up your shot.

I when I fly the 109K or G-14 w/ the 30mm I have to position myself for different TYPES of shots than when I am in other rides.  (read: niki, or .50 cal bird)

I use slightly diff. angles and closures.  I strive to be closer (under 400, more like 200-300) and at a slightly more severe angle if I am going for a deflection shot.  (I want a large profile of the nme when I shoot)

You want to not only practice aim but position as well.
"Never tell people how to do things. Tell them what to do and they will surprise you with their ingenuity."
— George Patton

Absurdum est ut alios regat, qui seipsum regere nescit

Offline Enker

  • Silver Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1553
Re: Aiming the 30mm+
« Reply #19 on: February 13, 2010, 04:38:05 PM »
Aiming with the 37mm+ guns in mind as a primary weapon, use the mgs as a tool to get the target to turn, and then pull a snapshot of 1.5 what the .50s would need, and double what the .303s need.
InGame ID: Cairn
Quote from: BillyD topic=283300.msg3581799#msg3581799
... FOR TEH MUPPET$ TO PAD OUR SCO?E N to WIN TEH EPIC WAR OF TEH UNIVERSE We MUST VULTCHE DA RUNWAYZ N DROP UR GUYZ FIGHTERZ Bunkarz Then OUR SKWAD will Finarry Get TACTICAL NOOK for 25 KILL SCORE  STREAK>X

Offline Krusty

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 26745
Re: Aiming the 30mm+
« Reply #20 on: February 13, 2010, 07:56:53 PM »
Given that the ballistics difference between the 20mms and 30mms is so great, is there really any point to taking that load out?

A million times yes. The ballistics aren't much of a problem on most kills. When you hit you see it.

A 30mm is like 3 20mm, regardless if it only has 55 rounds. Flying a heavy 190a8 is like firing 8x 20mm at a target (explosion wise)!

It's very worth it, if you're going after something that needs that much firepower. If you're dogfighting it'll hurt. Sure you'll get one kill that'll make you laugh your butt off with glee (poof, BOOM, kill scored!) until you realize the rest of the furball knows you're there and comes in behind you. Then your goose is cooked.

P.S, the AH modeling has the 2x Mk108 30mm with 110 rounds of ammo weighing in at 531 pounds (much heavier than in real life) and has the 2x MG151/20 20mm with 280 rounds weighing in at 322 pounds (noticably lighter than real life).

So while the punch is lacking IMO with the 4x20mm package, you're actually much better off with the leftover weight. If you want to mix it up (at least a bit) and still have the punch to knock out IL2s or bombers, take the 4-gun option.