Author Topic: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)  (Read 405 times)

Offline 1Boner

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Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« on: November 02, 2010, 11:18:33 AM »
Driving home last night after about a 20 mile drive, i noticed the heater had started blowing cool air. (it was set for 80+ degrees)

Within the next 1/2 mile or so the info center tells me that the coolant is hot, followed by ac is shutting off, followed by engine is overheating--idle engine, followed by shut off engine.

I checked and the coolant temp had gone from its normal 200 degrees or so to 255.  Stopped at a nearby store for some coolant and some engine cool down time.
Added aprox. 3/4 of a gallon of coolant and drove the 4 or 5 miles home with no trouble and steady coolant temp.

On my way to work this am, I made it about 20 miles (almost made it) and the same thing happened, in the same order.
This time I also noticed the info center telling me to change my oil. (I had it changed aprox. 1.5 mths ago)
Checked the oil level--it looked like it could use a quart, nothing unusual there. The coolant level seems ok also, no leaks that I can see.
Before the car overheats the heater is working fine. The car doesn't seem to be running rough or anything, just the info center setting off alerts. Before it overheated today, the service engine light also came on.  Any ideas??
"Life is just as deadly as it looks"  Richard Thompson

"So umm.... just to make sure I have this right.  What you are asking is for the bombers carrying bombs, to stop dropping bombs on the bombs, so the bombers can carry bombs to bomb things with?"  AKP

Offline NOT

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #1 on: November 02, 2010, 12:00:35 PM »
Sounds like the thermostat is sticking.




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Offline Captain Virgil Hilts

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2010, 12:08:44 PM »
The car is not full of coolant, or at least not staying full. There is air in the system, whether it is always there because it is not getting full, or it is there replacing coolant that has leaked out. A pressure test of the cooling system is in order. That requires a shop that has the tool, or you can go buy one from your local parts store that sells tools.

A thermostat requires a full cooling system in order to function correctly, it will not function correctly if it is only in contact with an air pocket or steam. Once a thermostat sticks, it is usually stuck, forever. Test it in a pan of water. It should open before the water begins to boil, water boils at 212F, at sea level. A thermostat for your car opens at 195F. About the time bubbles form on the bottom of the pot, the thermostat should open. The best aftermarket brand of thermostat is the Robertshaw brand, I use their pressure balanced thermostats, they rarely fail.
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Offline CAP1

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2010, 12:26:45 PM »
Driving home last night after about a 20 mile drive, i noticed the heater had started blowing cool air. (it was set for 80+ degrees)

Within the next 1/2 mile or so the info center tells me that the coolant is hot, followed by ac is shutting off, followed by engine is overheating--idle engine, followed by shut off engine.

I checked and the coolant temp had gone from its normal 200 degrees or so to 255.  Stopped at a nearby store for some coolant and some engine cool down time.
Added aprox. 3/4 of a gallon of coolant and drove the 4 or 5 miles home with no trouble and steady coolant temp.

On my way to work this am, I made it about 20 miles (almost made it) and the same thing happened, in the same order.
This time I also noticed the info center telling me to change my oil. (I had it changed aprox. 1.5 mths ago)
Checked the oil level--it looked like it could use a quart, nothing unusual there. The coolant level seems ok also, no leaks that I can see.
Before the car overheats the heater is working fine. The car doesn't seem to be running rough or anything, just the info center setting off alerts. Before it overheated today, the service engine light also came on.  Any ideas??

what happened last night when your heater stopped working was the low coolant. your heater works by the heater core, which is nothing more than a small radiator.
 what happened this morning when it stopped working(presuming that your coolant level was still good) was that the cooling system "hydro-locked". what this means, is that something happened....more then likely an air pocket formed in the cooling system......that prevented the coolant from flowing properly.
 the a/c shutting down is normal. the gm computers are programed to shut it off when coolant temp reaches a certain point...i think it's 240F. your radiator fans should've been running on high at that point too.

 check simple things first. the overheat happened when you were driving, not sitting in traffic, correct? if sitting in traffic, check cooling fans first. if it happened when you were driving, then check thermostat first.  check water pump second.

 making a BIG leap here....but if i recall from the last time you posted, you have the 4.9L v8, right? how many miles? these engines are common to lose head gaskets, which if it pushes pressure into the cooling system, it will hydro-lock it.

 don't worry about the oil change notice being part of this problem. they go by key cycles and/or mileage driven. even if you did it a month and a half ago, you may need it again. i have a few fleet cars that go with 5,000 intervals, rather than 3,000 intervals....and i'm doing their cars every month.

 if you have more questions post em, or pm me, and i'll do what i can to help ya.
ingame 1LTCAP
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Offline CAP1

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2010, 12:28:48 PM »
i should've read further before posting....after reading virgils reply....look for bleeder screws in the system. there may be one right near the thermostat housing.
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Offline Steve

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2010, 12:33:03 PM »
Pretty much everything covered.  When adding coolant, do so with the engine running and make sure the thermostat opens. If you are watching the coolant level in the radiator, you will actually be able to tell when the thermostat opens.... the coolant level typically drops a bit and the radiator flows more once the thermostat it open.

Believe it or not, it may be such a simple fix as a bad radiator cap. If the cap won't hold pressure and is allowing coolant to escape, in liquid or vapor form,  this would cause the problems you mentioned.
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Offline 1Boner

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #6 on: November 03, 2010, 04:34:06 PM »
Took the Caddy to the shop today.

The cooling fans had stopped working, which over time made the hot coolant ruin the cap.

Replaced the cap and a fuse for the fans.

Thanks for the responses guys!!!   :salute

Its nice to know that despite all the arguing and petty fights in here, when it really counts we are willing to jump into the deep end to help each other!!  :salute :salute


"Life is just as deadly as it looks"  Richard Thompson

"So umm.... just to make sure I have this right.  What you are asking is for the bombers carrying bombs, to stop dropping bombs on the bombs, so the bombers can carry bombs to bomb things with?"  AKP

Offline CAP1

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #7 on: November 03, 2010, 08:59:55 PM »
Took the Caddy to the shop today.

The cooling fans had stopped working, which over time made the hot coolant ruin the cap.

Replaced the cap and a fuse for the fans.

Thanks for the responses guys!!!   :salute

Its nice to know that despite all the arguing and petty fights in here, when it really counts we are willing to jump into the deep end to help each other!!  :salute :salute




keep an eye on the fans now. often times, a fan motor starting to wear down will draw too much amperage, blowing the fuse. .

almost forgot...i don't view it as arguing, but rather discussing. sometimes those discusions may get a little heated, sometimes they may get a little silly.....but it's all good in the end.  :aok
ingame 1LTCAP
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Offline 1Boner

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2010, 09:29:00 PM »
keep an eye on the fans now. often times, a fan motor starting to wear down will draw too much amperage, blowing the fuse. .

almost forgot...i don't view it as arguing, but rather discussing. sometimes those discusions may get a little heated, sometimes they may get a little silly.....but it's all good in the end.  :aok

The "why" factor about the fans has been buggin me. Thanks for the advice. I think maybe a new fan motor should be looked into.

It kinda surprises me though that a car with only 82k on it would have a bad fan motor already.

Thanks Cap!! :salute
"Life is just as deadly as it looks"  Richard Thompson

"So umm.... just to make sure I have this right.  What you are asking is for the bombers carrying bombs, to stop dropping bombs on the bombs, so the bombers can carry bombs to bomb things with?"  AKP

Offline CAP1

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2010, 09:55:07 PM »
The "why" factor about the fans has been buggin me. Thanks for the advice. I think maybe a new fan motor should be looked into.

It kinda surprises me though that a car with only 82k on it would have a bad fan motor already.

Thanks Cap!! :salute

it's a combination of things.

engineers don't have to repair what they design.
they're under the gun to get things into production last week, if not sooner.
they generally try to find the lowest price parts they can that offer some form of reliability.

 no problem, as you've seen......none of us mind sharing our knowledge to help out a friend.  :aok
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Offline Captain Virgil Hilts

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #10 on: November 04, 2010, 01:46:48 AM »
Not uncommon to see fan motors or fan relays fail in less than 100K. The flip side of that is that, while they may fail next time I drive it, the fans on my Firebird are 12 years old and have 230K or so on them. If it does happen, do not buy cheap replacements. Buy GM, Evercool, Murray, or Hayden.
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Offline mcboi

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #11 on: November 04, 2010, 07:26:47 AM »
glad to hear you got the cooling problem fixed, but do you know why the oil was low? Do you do your own oil changes or do you take it somewhere and have it done? being a mechanic @ a tire shop that does oil changes ive seen some of the tire/oil tech not put enough oil in certain cars and almost ruin the engine. Especially Lacs with the northstar engine because they take 7-7.5 qts of oil. If you do take it some where make sure you always check the oil levels when you leave.

Offline CAP1

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Re: Caddy problems. (not a golf caddy)
« Reply #12 on: November 04, 2010, 08:05:22 AM »
glad to hear you got the cooling problem fixed, but do you know why the oil was low? Do you do your own oil changes or do you take it somewhere and have it done? being a mechanic @ a tire shop that does oil changes ive seen some of the tire/oil tech not put enough oil in certain cars and almost ruin the engine. Especially Lacs with the northstar engine because they take 7-7.5 qts of oil. If you do take it some where make sure you always check the oil levels when you leave.

he'a probably leaking it. a good 955% of these cars i see are leaking oil by 70k. not a bad one.....but enough to take the level down a quart or so over the period of 2 or 3 months.
ingame 1LTCAP
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