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[CAP1]

Honda being a unibody doesn't have a frame. In SCCA and NASA they require a plate welded to the floor pan (or wherever that attachment point is located) with a minimum square inch of footprint, and minimum thickness, and the cage bar is welded to that. I've seen some horrendously hard impacts that totally wrote off the car, and these attachment points have held up.

That being said I hope that car is for drag racing (with a helmet) and is never put on the street. Roll bars in street cars = almost certain death for occupants in a wreck, if your head comes in contact with the bar/cage, which is very likely.

 they do have a front sub frame though. should i copy the pic i'm referencing, and point out where i see problems? i'm fairly confident that the point i'm talking about will not hold in even a minor crash.

[dyna76]

My new creation...still a work in progress.....wanting to put in some tail lights and LED headlamps

[Reaper90]

they do have a front sub frame though. should i copy the pic i'm referencing, and point out where i see problems? i'm fairly confident that the point i'm talking about will not hold in even a minor crash.

I never said the pic you're referencing was of a properly done job, no... just that the concept of a properly done mounting plate of correct dimensions and design, welded to the floorboard (and preferably designed so that it can tie in the sill and firewall as well) is more than ample to retain its integrity in a very bad crash.

In Improved Touring classes, we were not allowed to exten the cage through the firewall to either the front shock/strut towers or front subframe. Production classes and GT classes (where cars still used a production tub), however, were allowed to go through the firewall.

[Reaper90]

Only if that 325IS is lapping you.

Well, the RX7 I saw t-boned by the 325i was well ahead of that Bimmer when he spun. 

Don't get me wrong, I love BMW's, I've got one in the driveway and am doing my best to get rid of my wife's Lexus so we can get her an X5......

But I'm not dumb enough to think they're out there lapping everything. 

Hondas, Acuras, Mazdas, heck even old Datsun 240Zs... all still contenders in ITS. I used to chew up and spit out 2002s and 318i's in ITB... it was the Audi's an Volvos, and one %$@* yellow VW golf from Miami that used to give me fits in the CRX...... still, though, I got the SEDiv championship that last year. 

[MK-84]

Honda being a unibody doesn't have a frame. In SCCA and NASA they require a plate welded to the floor pan (or wherever that attachment point is located) with a minimum square inch of footprint, and minimum thickness, and the cage bar is welded to that. I've seen some horrendously hard impacts that totally wrote off the car, and these attachment points have held up.

That being said I hope that car is for drag racing (with a helmet) and is never put on the street. Roll bars in street cars = almost certain death for occupants in a wreck, if your head comes in contact with the bar/cage, which is very likely.

Welding isnt finished as you can see from the pic, and the plate is specifically there because it is a unibody as you stated.  Yes it is a drag car.  It is an 8pt S&W Racecars rollbar.

[MK-84]

a naturally aspirated b16 or b18 isn't fast enough to even warrant a roll cage drag racing or even scca.

It's a B20B mated to a B16 transmission. Top is mildly built with crower 303 cams, valves, springs, retainers.  Bottom end retains normal compression but has forged pistons and rods, crank is stock.  Power adder is a NX directport nitrous, which I have and have not installed. for buget reasons as well as it essentially being a dragcar only.
Engine management is a an obd-1 (Pr3?, i cant remember) ecu flashed to run chrome from a laptop. Suspension is stock, tires are 205/35/17's.
One of the reasons for the rollbar is to stiffen the vehicle.  Everything that wasnt needed to make the car go, was essentially removed, including bumpers.

Do I need a rollbar...I dont know, I havent taken it to the track yet. If I break a 12.0 1/4 it has to have atleast a 4pt(?) which I believe the car might be capable of, certainly not an 8, but that was available.

[MK-84]

they do have a front sub frame though. should i copy the pic i'm referencing, and point out where i see problems? i'm fairly confident that the point i'm talking about will not hold in even a minor crash.

The kit came from S&W Racecars and is specific for a 92-95 Honda civic.  Again, It isnt finished being welded.  It's kinda been a 5 year project that progresses at a pretty slow pace.

[MK-84]

Only if that 325IS is lapping you.

You would be very surprised at how much power a B series engine can create, and for a pretty low price with stupidly simply maintence. (I can remove the head in less than ten minutes with a cig in one hand and a beer nearby

Actually if my memory serves me, I think you only need a 10mm 12mm and a 13mm socket to do this.

[CAP1]

The kit came from S&W Racecars and is specific for a 92-95 Honda civic.  Again, It isnt finished being welded.  It's kinda been a 5 year project that progresses at a pretty slow pace.

 i wasn't meaning to be an arse.........i've seen too many times when people got seriously effed up.....or in 2 cases, killed, due to improperly installed safety equipment.

 i don't wanna come here, and see that we've lost a member to a race crash, especially if it were something as obvious as that, and i kept my mouth shut.

[MK-84]

i wasn't meaning to be an arse.........i've seen too many times when people got seriously effed up.....or in 2 cases, killed, due to improperly installed safety equipment.

 i don't wanna come here, and see that we've lost a member to a race crash, especially if it were something as obvious as that, and i kept my mouth shut.

Oh, Totally no offence taken at all!  If anything I'm new to the racing bit, and any advice is totally wanted!  I just wanted to clarify stuff in terms of what I have.

[Masherbrum]

i wasn't meaning to be an arse.........i've seen too many times when people got seriously effed up.....or in 2 cases, killed, due to improperly installed safety equipment.

 i don't wanna come here, and see that we've lost a member to a race crash, especially if it were something as obvious as that, and i kept my mouth shut.

Don't forget those that envision "Loctite being the only thing keeping Wheel Spacers on their studs".      

 

[SilverZ06]

It's a B20B mated to a B16 transmission. Top is mildly built with crower 303 cams, valves, springs, retainers.  Bottom end retains normal compression but has forged pistons and rods, crank is stock.  Power adder is a NX directport nitrous, which I have and have not installed. for buget reasons as well as it essentially being a dragcar only.
Engine management is a an obd-1 (Pr3?, i cant remember) ecu flashed to run chrome from a laptop. Suspension is stock, tires are 205/35/17's.
One of the reasons for the rollbar is to stiffen the vehicle.  Everything that wasnt needed to make the car go, was essentially removed, including bumpers.

Do I need a rollbar...I dont know, I havent taken it to the track yet. If I break a 12.0 1/4 it has to have atleast a 4pt(?) which I believe the car might be capable of, certainly not an 8, but that was available.

I'm not trying to be a dik but if you break into the high 13's n/a I'll be impressed. I think you are wishful thinking for 12.0s

[MK-84]

I'm not trying to be a dik but if you break into the high 13's n/a I'll be impressed. I think you are wishful thinking for 12.0s

I understand, I also was talking about hoping to break into the 12's  a 12.0 is very different from a 12.9 which really would be fun to try for. 

Is it realistic...absoutley.  The original as I bought it got me 16.1 with a d15 engine (102hp at the crank, with the interior removed.)  That got me excited to see just what I can do (on a limited budget) with my car.

The new engine probably produce around 200hp without nitrous, with maybe 250?  It doesnt sound like much but it is all in how it's used. 

For example a B16 transmission has very short gears compared with anything else available save for a Type R (which is stupidly expensive)  My civic also doesnt weigh very much, particurally after removing everything I could find that could go.  Finally better wheels and tires (which are not currently exactly what I'd want) make a big difference.

A b20 swap stock civic according to many sources on Honda-tech.net show that a realistic speed with a stock(ish) vehicle is low 14's to possibly<--- high 13's.  I'm not remotley close to stock though.

So is it doable? sure, can my car do it?  I dont know yet, It's not ready to race.

[CAP1]

Don't forget those that envision "Loctite being the only thing keeping Wheel Spacers on their studs".      

 

dude....i got a customer driving a 89? i think it is....dodge ramcharger. he's got those stupid spacers on all four corners. i don't think they're on there by 5 full threads. he won't listen to me and get them off, before they lead him to the scene of the accident.

[Reaper90]

I'm not trying to be a dik but if you break into the high 13's n/a I'll be impressed. I think you are wishful thinking for 12.0s

I know drag racing and road racing are apples/oranges, but it's not always about horsepower alone... weight is huge.

My ITB CRX Si (1.5L SOHC 12v) made about 110hp to the wheels, fully built to the max of the it rules. My 1990 Corvette set up for BSP made about 330hp to the rear wheels, and over 500 lb/ft of torque, and was fully built for track duty, including DRM World Challenge suspension, ZR1 brakes, etc.

My CRX got around Roebling Road Raceway (9 turns, 2.1 miles) in 1:26:xx in race traffic. Best time I ever got in the Corvette was in the low 1:24:xx range... solo (no traffic).

The Corvette did weigh about 3300 lbs, the Honda... about 2000 lbs with driver and 3/4 tank of fuel.

Weight makes a lot of difference.