The scaling they mention won't do anything like what you've asked for. All it does is adjust how much you need to move the stick to get the control surface deflection you're already getting.
There isn't a way to adjust how much deflection your surfaces will be capable of. Full-up is still full up, even with a scaled stick.
It sounds like you're making a common mistake people make in the beginning, which is trying to do things when you're too slow to be able to accomplish them. Otherwise, you may be giving too much stick, too quickly, which will give you the same result, or throw you into a snap.
If you're "ham-fisted", scaling may help, because it essentially makes the stick "mushy" in the initial throws. There are multiple theories at work when it comes to scaling. I for one don't use it, because I prefer to have a fine level of control that isn't there if I scale.
Full Up is Full up only if your last slider at the far right is adjusted all the way to the top of its bar, if people are not scaling to where the sliders eventualy top out on the right side and actually have their scaling lower like 60 % , 70% 80%..... then they would only get those percentages at Full Up ie... 60 / 70 / 80 % of full deflection
I have seen where some had their scalings at 0 on the left and topping out at 50 to 60 on the right side, that was basically only giving them at best 1/2 deflection of what they could have been obtaining......
I agree totally about using scaling to help with people that are all hamfist or stick maulers, etc.... but they still need it to gradually increase to the absolute max/ top while going from left to right.....
like mtnman, I prefer to have all mine set at the very top 100% across so when I move my stick 10% deflection, I am getting 10% deflection, not some devised ratio of less than 100% of the 10% deflection column ( this applies for each column left to right )
Also, TRIM does not help one "TURN TIGHTER" ........... TRIMMING a plane out for whatever speed they are currently going only helps that individual to have less strain on the stick when turning, it "lightens the load" on the required stick pulling for that instant.....
if I am flying my spitfire at 200 mph IAS and I am trimmed for level flight at 300 MPH , and my oponent is scaled to 200 mph IAS and turning............ he is not going to out turn me because of this, he simply will have to pull on the stick lesser than I would have to.
now some will argue that, but it is what it is and nothing more......... edit: well their could be other small descrepencies that might come into play here, like if me having my scaling set like I do 100% across the top and the other guy has a very long sweeping curve from bottom left to top right........... then who knows who actually has to pull the hardest or maintain such a position...... this is no different than I might have 24% fuel load but my opponent has 33% fuel load or vice versa..... to many variables really.....
it also is ok to use combat trim, if that is your preference......... I personally do not like using combat trim and find that in certian circumstances Cpmbat Trim is more of a henderence than it is helpful, especially once you are slow enough to be using your flaps...... because Combat Trim does not take the Flaps in to consideration, combat Trim is always trimming the plane for level flight at whatever speed you are currently at ( ie... it is always trimming to keep the Nose up or level with the horizon )
their are some though who fly using combat trim, and are very good game players and put up some awesome fights........... but that is what they have become acustomed to using.........
- Manual Trim set points / speeds ,
- using combat Trim,
- constantly adjusting trim
all 3 are personal preference, however I strongly advise to not get all caught up in doing the last one I listed..... their are some that really do "constantly trim their plane" and that sure is a whole lot of wasted effort in my book...
hope this helps
TC
