brand new boss 302 question

[CAP1]

a sharp tap with a hammer works for sticking starter motor solenoids too

 that doesn't normally work on todays permanent magnet starters.

[ink]

I am no mechanic....but one time in the Challenger i was screaming down this back road and all of a sudden my oil pressure hit dead zero and smoke started pouring out of the engine compartment....I pull over pop the hood and oil is everywhere...damn.....well a bit of searching and I found that the line from the block to the pressure gauge was brittle and broke off....what the hell to do??????

basically no tools....

fixed it with a bottle cap.   cut it to size with a pocket knife stuck it under the hose connector at the block.

happen to have enough oil in the trunk filled her up and off we went....no oil pressure...but it worked perfect till I got a new line.

[smoe]

If it is still under warranty do NOT move it or power it up. Give the (nearest) dealer a call and let them tow it in. Make sure to get the person's name at the dealer (and write it down) if they give you any instructions for diagnosing the problem. However, the dealer should fix it for free if still under warranty. If you decide to drive it or fix it yourself you may get stuck paying for fixing it. I would recommend disconnecting the car's battery to be absolutly safe until a dealer is consulted. Electrical fires can happen really easy. Chances are a blown fuse or loose connector is to blame.

[CAP1]

disconnecting the battery, while in light of the ford truck cruise control problem is a good suggestion.....isn't a good idea unless they tell him to do so. if there are any codes associated with this problem, they will be lost after an extended lack of 12v

[eagl]

Yea.  Don't disconnect the battery.  That's bad for cars nowadays.

[Babalonian]

a sharp tap with a hammer works for sticking starter motor solenoids too

I preffer no bounce when its not covered/painted.

Top of my head:
-old honda, throttle cable started getting sticky in one, so one day after school I tried starting *bu, bu, buu, vroooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMM MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMOM GWTF!*  Shut her off, poke around, couple taps behind the throttle, *tink*, some WD40, and straight to the shop for a repalcement it went (if it wasn't a manual or as old as I was at the time, probabley would of towed it).
-bonco II spare tires
-old honda thermostats (alternatively, old honda electric-driven radiator fans)
-mercury outboards (well, half the time it's legit, the other half are purely rage-filled.)
-trailer hitch, post-uncle/relative (the last episode called for 20lb Bertha)


You guys metnioning gas tanks and motors - I'm thinking the next thing that I'll be giving the treatment to is that retarded evap sensor on my CRV's gas tank that lightsup everytime I torque my gas cap to 24 rather than the required 25 (seriously).

[Golfer]

You guys metnioning gas tanks and motors - I'm thinking the next thing that I'll be giving the treatment to is that retarded evap sensor on my CRV's gas tank that lightsup everytime I torque my gas cap to 24 rather than the required 25 (seriously).

I had the same light come on in my Silverado not long ago.  I had been meaning to put a locking gas cap on it anyway since I leave it parked for extended period of times anymore and that solved the problem.  I wasn't convinced I had the massive leak required for that code to be thrown and it was a simple matter of a poorly sealing fuel cap.

Might be worth the $10 to troubleshoot.

Now I can't seem to use any amount of force in the proper direction to remove the old fuel cap from the lanyard that fixes it to the truck.  I have to stuff the old one in the door because I don't want to cut the lanyard because "someday" I might actually get to it.  It's 91º out so I'm not sure that today is that day.  Any tips on that would be welcome.

[Masherbrum]

I would recommend disconnecting the car's battery to be absolutly safe until a dealer is consulted.

That is absolutely, positively, the LAST THING one should do with vehicles nowadays.    

[homersipes]

Well it ended up being the alternator I guess.  Was sending spikes to the computer luckily it didnt cook the computer

[CAP1]

I preffer no bounce when its not covered/painted.

Top of my head:
-old honda, throttle cable started getting sticky in one, so one day after school I tried starting *bu, bu, buu, vroooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMMM MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMOM GWTF!*  Shut her off, poke around, couple taps behind the throttle, *tink*, some WD40, and straight to the shop for a repalcement it went (if it wasn't a manual or as old as I was at the time, probabley would of towed it).
-bonco II spare tires
-old honda thermostats (alternatively, old honda electric-driven radiator fans)
-mercury outboards (well, half the time it's legit, the other half are purely rage-filled.)
-trailer hitch, post-uncle/relative (the last episode called for 20lb Bertha)


You guys metnioning gas tanks and motors - I'm thinking the next thing that I'll be giving the treatment to is that retarded evap sensor on my CRV's gas tank that lightsup everytime I torque my gas cap to 24 rather than the required 25 (seriously).

 aahh..you get the dreaded "very small evap leak detected" code. i think it's a p0456, although i could be wrong.......

[CAP1]

I had the same light come on in my Silverado not long ago.  I had been meaning to put a locking gas cap on it anyway since I leave it parked for extended period of times anymore and that solved the problem.  I wasn't convinced I had the massive leak required for that code to be thrown and it was a simple matter of a poorly sealing fuel cap.

Might be worth the $10 to troubleshoot.

Now I can't seem to use any amount of force in the proper direction to remove the old fuel cap from the lanyard that fixes it to the truck.  I have to stuff the old one in the door because I don't want to cut the lanyard because "someday" I might actually get to it.  It's 91º out so I'm not sure that today is that day.  Any tips on that would be welcome.

 careful with locking gas caps dude. right after katrina, when gas was in the $4.00 range, people were punching holes in gas tanks to get the gas out.....if they couldn't remove the cap. better to lose a few bucks of gas, than a $300 gas tank.

[Golfer]

careful with locking gas caps dude. right after katrina, when gas was in the $4.00 range, people were punching holes in gas tanks to get the gas out.....if they couldn't remove the cap. better to lose a few bucks of gas, than a $300 gas tank.

I'll take the risk.  The next car is the path of least resistance.

My concern isn't someone taking anything out anyway.  It's a bunny boiler putting stuff in it.

[Gustav]

That is absolutely, positively, the LAST THING one should do with vehicles nowadays.    

Ive seen worse where someone accidentally dropped a wrench and it shorted out the battery. The results were quite explosive.

[Babalonian]

I had the same light come on in my Silverado not long ago.  I had been meaning to put a locking gas cap on it anyway since I leave it parked for extended period of times anymore and that solved the problem.  I wasn't convinced I had the massive leak required for that code to be thrown and it was a simple matter of a poorly sealing fuel cap.

Might be worth the $10 to troubleshoot.

Now I can't seem to use any amount of force in the proper direction to remove the old fuel cap from the lanyard that fixes it to the truck.  I have to stuff the old one in the door because I don't want to cut the lanyard because "someday" I might actually get to it.  It's 91º out so I'm not sure that today is that day.  Any tips on that would be welcome.

I've had it happen before and my mechanic check it out, it's a common early CRV issue, I guess it's really sensitive and can detect very minor leaks.  But I'm more of your opinion, gas cap probabley doesnt seal as good as it should unless its cranked on.

Your gas cap lanyard, is it riveted on or is it only a fastener of some common or oddball variety?

[CAP1]

i forget the exact size, but todays evap systems can/will detect a pinhole.