Author Topic: A/C question  (Read 803 times)

Offline Rondar

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A/C question
« on: July 11, 2012, 02:58:08 PM »
Probably frivolous but I'm getting older and I want a little comfort.  Thinking about airconditioning one bay in my garage.  It is 11x25 and a sloping roof from 8to approximately 12 feet high.  I would be mainly in it of an evening.  I can't hardly work with door open as the bugs just get terrible.  Uninsulated of course. 

Would.say 15 to 18k btu do it?  Speaking of a window type unit.
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Offline CAP1

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #1 on: July 11, 2012, 03:44:20 PM »
 if i figured right(and honestly, i probably didn't), you've got 3300 square feet to cool. that range should work for that.
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Offline Skuzzy

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #2 on: July 11, 2012, 03:48:14 PM »
I was going to say around 16,000BTU should do it, but it depends on how many windows there are and the Sun exposure to them.
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Offline Reschke

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #3 on: July 11, 2012, 03:55:19 PM »
if i figured right(and honestly, i probably didn't), you've got 3300 square feet to cool. that range should work for that.

Cap1 just so you know that size floor space is only about 275 square feet. Height x Length = Square Footage
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Offline Babalonian

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #4 on: July 11, 2012, 04:22:30 PM »
Since you mentioned this is for the evening use, you may want some type of vent with a fan on a switch installed way up top near the roof, quickly get rid of the hottest air and it might be perfect for when its uncompfy but not hot enough for the AC.  Turn it off before turning on your AC.
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Offline CAP1

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2012, 04:23:47 PM »
Cap1 just so you know that size floor space is only about 275 square feet. Height x Length = Square Footage

 DOH!! i was doing height x length x width.  :bhead
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Offline Dragon

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2012, 05:10:25 PM »
DOH!! i was doing height x length x width.  :bhead


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Offline Dragon

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2012, 05:28:17 PM »
The initial cost is a bit more, but heat can also be added and if you ever remove it, you don't have to fill a huge hole in the wall.  Have you considered a split system?

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Offline Rondar

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2012, 10:29:56 PM »
I looked at some of those on home depot website Dragon.  It was double what window units going for.    My garage is an old barn that was used for some grain storage, so no windows for my half of barn, and other half of it was milking stalls.  I sectioned off 3 parts of the grainery part inside for cars, storage, workshop etc.  so no windows and the whole barn has a metal tin corrugated roof.  But that half is ventilated well. 

What I had planned to do was just to cut a hole inside my part and mount a/c inside with the condenser part sticking out into the ventilated part.  Not sure I need heat as I have one of those kerosene powered jet engines, er a 155,000 btu space heater.  Oh yeah it heats it up in a hurry when its 0 out.  But dadgum, the thing is so noisy you cant think when its running, so maybe some heater/A/C unit is the ticket.
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Offline Rash

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2012, 10:59:07 PM »
Not sure when it happens, but when you get to a certain size of a/c, you will need a 220 plug.  Anything over a ton?

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Offline rpm

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #10 on: July 12, 2012, 03:16:19 AM »
You want a 220 unit anyway. A 110 will use a lot more electricity.
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Offline CAP1

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2012, 07:47:26 AM »
Cap1 just so you know that size floor space is only about 275 square feet. Height x Length = Square Footage

.
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Offline CAP1

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2012, 07:48:13 AM »
Cap1 just so you know that size floor space is only about 275 square feet. Height x Length = Square Footage

 actually, it just hit me.........i DID do it right. you're figuring a surface square footage.
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Offline eagl

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2012, 09:05:34 AM »
While you're at it, adding some insulation might help a lot.  Better yet, rough finish the work space.  Insulate (or not) the walls, throw up some drywall or even some plywood (if you want to hang stuff from the walls), add a ceiling (maybe with some blown insulation on top as an option) and you won't be cooling the area under the roof and will cut the heat transfer through gaps to a fraction of what it is now even if you don't use any insulation.

The side of the garage that gets direct sunlight in the late afternoon would probably be the highest priority for insulation, if your problem is too much heat.  The thin insulation just on my west-facing garage doors kept my garage 10-15 deg cooler than outside air temps even throughout the late afternoon.
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Offline rpm

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Re: A/C question
« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2012, 09:33:10 AM »
I know this is extreme, especially if not new construction, but if possible get it spray foamed. I just converted my covered patio into a shop and doubled the floor slab area. I hired a professional foam crew to spray a 1.5" minimum overall coat. It's like having a custom sprayed ice chest. Their big point is continuous coverage. No gaps. Every surface above the slab is coated with at least 1.5 inches of foam. Temps inside are easily warmer or cooler (in my favor) than outdoor temps and that's without having any HVAC in the shop. When it's 105 outside, it's 90 inside my shop.

« Last Edit: July 12, 2012, 09:35:56 AM by rpm »
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