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A few more notes about the 303s:
There is an argument whether they should be fired together with the cannons. The pro argument is that every little bit of damage helps and they do have a knack for inducing pilot wounds. The con argument is that it is difficult to tell if you are hitting with the cannons or only the 303s, making you shoot longer and waste cannon ammo. If you are hitting with both, the added damage of the 303s is negligible.
I normally fire only the cannons, but when I get low on cannon ammo I switch to "fire all guns". That way, if the cannons run dry in the middle of a burst, I simply continue to fire with the 303s without missing a beat.
You CAN take out an enemy with the 303s alone. However, it takes a very long and sustained burst from short range in order to do any critical damage. What usually happens is that you pour a few hundred to a thousand rounds into an enemy, wounding him a bit, then a friendly finishes him off and you get the kill (or assist). An La7 can simply fly away from you straight and level before you do enough damage to bring it down. Forget about using them against bombers, unless it is for pure comedy. Remember that the enemy will not tell the difference between one tracer and another. If you are out of cannons you can still clear a friendly by raking the enemy plane with 303s. A mosquito bearing down on someone spewing tracers out of her nose will get most players attention. You can also use them to spray at a fleeing enemy in an attempt to make him panic and turn.
Defense: How to not get holes in Balsa
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Here is your real problem. you are being shot at and you are a big target. The other player WILL NOT MISS - even the 30mm spud throwers will seem to shoot like Wilhelm Tell. You have to completely move out of the way. The first rule of defense in a big twin engine fighter, and I'm sure P-38 experts will agree, is to make yourself smaller. Since you can't shrink like a sweater after a hot wash, you'll have to give the enemy your profile and take one to the ribs. By that I mean break early to get some angles off and if you cannot move completely out of the way, roll to give them your side instead of your top, just before they open fire.
See, your top is a huge area. If they take your wing - game over. If they set the wing tanks on fire - game over, if they take off your elevators - game over, if they hit the cockpit - game over. Your top exposes everything valuable to you, but that is what you expose when you go for a break turn. This is why it is absolutely vital that you have good SA and spot the enemy coming early enough. Last second break will only make it easier to kill you. Your side on the other hand gives the enemy mostly fuselage area that can take hits a lot better. You expose only 1 engine, very small wing area and less cockpit. If you give them your starboard side, maybe you can hide behind your DJ/barman/Navigator as a human shield. You do expose more rudder and vertical stabilizer, but it is a much better trade off (you can even fly and land without it!). So what you need to do is to balance the effort of maneuvering out of the way, with becoming smaller.
Creating overshoots:
Another big problem. Your good inertia which serves you offensively or passive-defensively become a hindrance when trying to make someone overshoot you. This is definitely not your game. Almost all planes will find no difficulty in slowing down to stay behind you. If you find someone saddled up on you, and they know what they are doing, only acts of desperations remain. Never ever break turn in this situation, see the above paragraph. Chop throttle, fake a break turn and start doing barrel rolls and lots of skidding and slipping maneuvers. Use a lot of rudder to try and slow down and work it into rolling scissors - not your strongest move, but with no other options... If they don't press the attack and pull away a little to stay behind, go full throttle and dive! You will NOT make them overshoot you. If they are slow planes you might just escape due to the great dive acceleration. Otherwise, you might just built a little separation to allow a break turn to get some angles off for a fighting chance. Don't get your hopes too high though - You are very likely to die.
Acts of desperation:
One really dirty desperate move when someone is all over you - snap-roll with full rudder applied (see chapter 2) and "TIMBER!" the wooden wonder falls cartwheeling out of the sky. It will make your mosquito flip-flop around the skies, making the pursuer ramming you a real possibility. Start recovery procedure immediately and when you finally get the nose into a dive - keep diving vertically while rolling. If by a miracle he didn't get to shoot you, and didn't collide with you, he has over shot you and will turn back with a vengeance. By the time you regain control he'll be back on your tail, guns blazing. Your rolling on the dive does 2 things: Allow you to look back and find him, and get your plane banked relative to his. If you get a 90-180 deg off in the roll relative to him - pull out hard and try not to get into another spin. You might just got yourself another fighting chance.
WEP management:
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Do not waste your WEP. If it is gone you are neutered! Yes, it is that bad. Do not waste your WEP. Get out of danger and spend some time climbing, while cooling your WEP. Your WEP is on a 5/15 cycle, so 3 minutes out of combat will give you 1 minute of WEP back. Not a lot, but enough to hop back into the action. Do not waste your WEP. There, I have said it thrice and what I tell you three times is true.
Fuel management:
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Let the auto fuel selection work by itself. With initial 50% you'll have a few drops in the AUX and the rest in the inner and outer wing tanks. Once the outer tanks (OR/OL) are burnt and you are sipping from the inner ones (IR/IL), you'll have 22 minutes of MIL power, your handling improves a bit and you are light and ready for a good knife fight. I also believe that emptying the outer and aux tanks reduce the chance of catching fire vs. having fuel in 5 tanks, though I never tested it. 75% internal will feel heavy and it is not recommended to get into knife fights until the fuel state is down to 50% (about 270 gallons shown in the E6B).
Conclusions:
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Mosquito VI in aces high can be used as a fighter, and a very effective one at that, though it requires some adapting to. It is best used in small number engagements, with a wingman or in an offensively oriented scenario where your offensive capabilities shine and defensive vulnerabilities minimized. Your biggest problem is close in defense. The solution is good SA in order to avoid it altogether, or have someone to clear your 6.
Always remember that the greatest weakness of your enemy's plane is the pilot. After 5 seconds in combat you can tell if this guy knows his business or not. If he's a dodo, teach him. If he's good it is your choice whether to die and learn something, or to run away. Having said that, do not fight a losing battle and wait to die - try to extend just enough to start the fight again from a better than hopeless situation.
The bottom line is that once you master all the weirdness of the Mossie VI, she is not a bad little fighter. OK, she's not little either. My point is that the VI is good enough in the fighter role to allow me to accept any 1 on 1 fight I can find, knowing that if I lost the fight, it is not because I was in an inferior fighter. One versus many however is very very difficult, so try to fly with a wingman and know when to disengage from the combat area. Another option is to fly next to P-38s, 110s, 410s and C47s - these are the only planes that may pull some aggro away from you
The lives of twin-engine fighters are not easy...