need help 97 dodge ram issues

[f35raptor]

As of recently my truck has been having Idle issues when I go to stop at stop at stoplight, or stop sign. If I ride the brake and throttle at the stop, i will not stall out. When I'm driving I've got no issues only when I go stop. I've gave it a full tune up, wires plugs, and oil change. A month or two back. Truck has 20 on it I've only put 3800 on it.

 The tricky is a 1997 doge ram 1500 5.9 4 wheel drive.

Thanks boomhaur

[Slate]

  If you have access to a code reader (some auto stores will scan for free) check for codes. Also fuel pressure should be checked. (they can loan you tools too for free, advanced auto does)
  Other than that did you install the proper plugs, leave off or dislodge any vacuum lines, or leave the air duct loose near the MAF sensor?
  Any vacuum leak could lower the idle enough to stall.

[caldera]

The symptoms sound like a vacuum leak to me. 

[f35raptor]

I brought it to my friend that does my mechanic work. Will have him look for a vacume leak. It was also doing this before the tune up was done.

[rpm]

The way to read the codes on a 97 Dodge is turn the ignition on/off 3 times rapidly. The codes will read out on the odometer.

[uptown]

Idle Speed Control sensor.

[MrRiplEy[H]]

I had a crack in an intake manifold plastic tubing once and that made idle really rough. But it could be a number of things.

You could try to fiddle your intake manifold tubing while the car idles to see if squeezing something makes a difference in the run or stops the engine flat. In my case the tube had a large crack that leaked just enough to cause problems on idle. Once the mechanic squeezed the part the car died flat. The tube had a split big enough to put 4 fingers into it.

Reading fault codes is of course first thing you should do though.

[Estes]

Yeah, sounds like a vacuum leak to me as well. Someone else also suggested the idle air control valve, I had to replace one of those in my old chevy truck a few years back. If you take some brake cleaner and spray it on the tubes with it running that will tell ya where the leak is at.

[f35raptor]

Well so far replacing the idle air control sensor, has stopped my stalling issue. Now I also replaced the neutral safety switch, seeing how that was what the code reader was saying was bad. Replaced the sensor, the check engine light came back on today, and is still reading that the neutral safety sensor is bad. Any ideas?

[rpm]

What's the code Boom?

[smoe]

Other things to check is the EGR, PCV, and fuel filter. When the engine seems to be the culprit pulling the spark plugs and checking the color on each can point to the problem cylinder. Also, I always rub my finger on the inside of the tail pipe, this will tell me if I am burning oil or need a tune-up.

[uptown]

Well so far replacing the idle air control sensor, has stopped my stalling issue. Now I also replaced the neutral safety switch, seeing how that was what the code reader was saying was bad. Replaced the sensor, the check engine light came back on today, and is still reading that the neutral safety sensor is bad. Any ideas?

That's a strange one....especially if the truck is starting okay. Is it possible that when you installed the new neutral safety switch, it was installed incorrectly and now the switch touches the brake or clutch pedal constantly, which would cause the switch to be in the closed circuit position all the time? Also I'd check the resistance with a voltmeter making sure that your new switch isn't defective. You should have no resistance when the switch is in the open position.....only when the button is pushed in should resistance be present.

[f35raptor]

I had my mechanic put the switch in so I'm pretty sure it was done right.

Will have to check code again latter when I get my truck done at les schwab.

[rpm]

I replaced 2 transmission sensors on my '01 Dodge 2500 before we figured out it was a frayed wire that was shorting out.

[CAP1]

Well so far replacing the idle air control sensor, has stopped my stalling issue. Now I also replaced the neutral safety switch, seeing how that was what the code reader was saying was bad. Replaced the sensor, the check engine light came back on today, and is still reading that the neutral safety sensor is bad. Any ideas?

 check the adjustment for this. they're not so much just neutral safety switches anymore, as they are transmission range sensors now. if the adjustment's just a tiny bit off, it'll trigger a code. if there's ANY play, or slack in the shifter itself, the same thing.

 what's the code number? i'll look ya up the diagnostics........