Don't move controls too rapidly

[hgtonyvi]

Don't stick stir....that will fix the problem

[darkzking]

Still don't understand how people get this message all the time man .

[Bizman]

Still don't understand how people get this message all the time man .

It's easy. I used to get them quite a lot. Now it's very rare, less than once a year. The reason in my case was lack of experience. The games I had played before didn't rely on real world dynamics, overdriven reactions played a major role. It took some time to learn not to crank the stick the maximum. Take the early sports games as an opposite, where your sprinter ran at the speed you beat your joystick from one end to another.

[Randy1]

Don't stick stir....that will fix the problem

I have never had it happen while being pursued . . . Never!

Still don't understand how people get this message all the time man .

Sooner or latter man it will happen to you.

[Drano]

Generally of you aren't cranking away on the stick it won't happen unless there's something going on mechanically /electronically with the stick itself. A pot or pots may be spiking in a certain position. My experience having had this happen periodically over the years is when I get that the first time it's time to tear the stick down and do some general maintenance. Usually I can get away with cleaning the pots but eventually it's time for new ones and voila I'm good for another 20k miles.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Ack-Ack]

Getting that error message is a good indicator that your controls aren't calibrated correctly or it's going south on you.

[Drano]

Another stupid thing with the CH sticks. The pots are connected to the wiring harness by little spade connectors. They get loose and will make whacky things happen. Give them a snug up with a needle nose.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Wizz]

Only time this happens to me is when im in bombers. I have learned not to extend away from the target very far by using flaps while bombing. This shortens the time to shutdown a base by a matter of minutes even in B29's. The down side is over compensating if my turn doesnt line up on the target. Normally nowadays i only have 20-30 seconds out of my turn to re-calibrate and drop again. There are times when i have to play with the stock back and forth to line it up from F3 mode to F6. If i do it too much it locks up my stick and i get the warning. Even worse if all that is happening and im trying to defend my buffs against air cons.

[Randy1]

I finally had a chance to teardown  the pedals yesterday using the guide Scca found.  The connections to the pots were tightened and pots cleaned.  It did fix a nagging toe brake problem but the rudder still shimmers when viewing the raw data in the W7 calibration or the advanced section in  AH albeit not as much.  Did not get the error message last night.

I am beginning to believe it is the USB connector having tried powered USB ports and sole connection to the mother board USB without any other device attached to any USB port.  Getting odd results when I change connections.

[Skuzzy]

It is not unusual to get different results when changing USB ports.

Remember this.  No matter how many USB ports are available on your computer, the chances are, there are only two hubs supporting all those ports.  It is quite easy to overload one hub and not even touch the other hub.

I wish computer manufacturers would identify the hubs for each port (i.e. Port/Hub: 1/1, 2/1, 3/2, 4/2...)

[Randy1]

It is not unusual to get different results when changing USB ports.

I will do some experimenting with different ports again today if time permits. 

Thanks Skuzzy and to all those that submitted replies.  Always good help here on the forum.

[Bizman]

Go to Device Manager, Universal Serial Bus Controllers. Double click each USB Root Hub to get their Properties windows open. On the Power tab you'll find the Total Power Available and a box titled Attached Devices showing how much each device is using. Clicking a device will open its Properties, on the Details tab you'll find a drop down menu. Scroll down to Bus Reported Device Description to find out which devices are connected to which bus. Unfortunately this won't tell you the locations of the ports, but it helps balancing the load.

While you're at it, uncheck the power saving of each bus.

[Randy1]

It happened again tonight, twice.  Lost a kill then worse lost a plane.

Bizman I tried two different computers watching for the power spread as you posted.  35 ma was the highest draw I saw and with a power hub it was zero.

Next step is solder the wires to the pots

[Drano]

Before you go to the trouble soldering the connections I'd say it's time for a new pot. If you've cleaned them and tightened the connections and are still having the same problem right out of the gate that's a bad sign, You can only clean them so many times but at some point---they're just shot. The good news is that doesn't happen very often. I don't fly near as much as I used to and even then is seemed like it was over a year between tear downs of stick and rudder.

What were you using exactly to clean the pots with? It matters. I tend to avoid using any that include "lubricant". I find whatever is in there tends to attract more dust and just accelerates the process. Use something that says safe for plastics and is lubricant free. Lubricate the mechanical parts for smooth travel but not the electronics. CRC makes some good products. I use CRC mass airflow sensor cleaner for the pots that you can find in just about any auto parts store. Big ol can of it for cheap.

[Randy1]

Drano I used  the CRC electronic parts cleaner.  Tore it down again and cleaned and crimped again to be sure.  Same same.  Must be the pots.

Has Ch quiet selling parts?