A stiffer spring might also help against rapid movements caused by indecisiveness.
Ya know, if your x and y axis springs are between a yoke or horns, you can cut say a 1\2 to 3\4 inch segment of bicycle inner tube. Then slide that down over the yoke\horn which will pull the stick to center tightly and give you stronger feed back. Stronger springs may wear through the plastic end points. You will end up replacing it anywhere from 30-60 days depending on how aggressive your stick motions are. Replacement time is about when the band feels weak. I'm still on the same cheap 24inch inner tube I bought last year and my original springs.
For you guys who slap your stick end stop to end stop. You can shorten that throw distance and save your axis springs. Essentially making your throw a slight wrist movement like industrial joysticks, instead of needing to slam your stick down on the table.
In your jsm file that holds your x and y axis calibration info. And it's just 3 numbers to denote left extreme, center and right extreme.
Left----Center----Right
0,32767,65535
X Axis
0,32767,65535,0.050000,0.100000,0.000000
Y Axis
0,32767,65535,0.050000,0.100000,0.000000
Shorten the ends by increasing the left and decreasing the right. 0 and 65535 are a very long throw which is why some of you have to bang seemingly side to side.
Here is mine for my chfighterstick.jsm in the settings folder.
X Axis
18547,32767,46987,0.016000,0.172000,0.250000
Y Axis
18559,32767,46975,0.000000,0.180000,0.250000
65535 - 18559 = 46976 <---- I set the ends from this and the game changes them slightly as you see above.
And now I don't have to bang my joystick to the ends for a full deflection. I no longer have to calibrate. But, I do have to use scaling to slow down the inputs a bit.
Something you can play with, I tested by changing the end numbers by 5000 at a time or so, and you don't need to add the bands to try it.
